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What are the preferred fused distribution blocks of today??? Like to do power and ground in the same block....still a good idea even though I'm using a circuit breaker?
What are the preferred fused distribution blocks of today??? Like to do power and ground in the same block....still a good idea even though I'm using a circuit breaker?
I prefer SMD distribution/fuse blocks. Not cheap but extremely high quality and the machining is top notch.
i know that knu makes a power and ground block in one but i'm not sure if anyone else still does. we talked about that one already. i'm hanging on to my streetwires cbr44a til i die or can't drive anymore
SMD isn't that far off on pricing when compared to JL Audio stuff. SMD makes good stuff.
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Serving the forum for over 8 years
Brands we sell include: Kicker,NavTV, PAC, CARiD, Dayton, Second Skin, Audio Control, Skar Audio, JL Audio, Focal and more.
PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
I decided early on that I would not use my rear wall as a pin cushion so I attached my components with velcro. To be clear, my needs are simple. I have a powered, enclosed, sub so no need for an external amp for that speaker. I have a 4 channel amp that covers the four speakers in the doors and I have a DSP of which I'm currently correcting a error made in speaker selection. I like the idea of using velcro so that I can move the components around on the wall for any number or reasons. I've already had to do it once and it paid off. Not having to deal with screws and there propensity to strip out the holes they occupy, I've eliminated the need to use them. This may not be the answer for some of you because the other examples put up on this board seem to be pretty heavy duty. Using velcro is just another alternative. So far, I've only had the need to drill one hole and that was for the ground straps.
There's like a gazillion holes in your wall, what's a few more gonna hurt...lol
I went thru the smaller grommet on the firewall. In the following pic, you will see that I pulled up the sound proofing under the carpet, DO THIS. It is a very tight fit between the cabin blower housing and the firewall.
Do do not cut these zip ties thinking you can replace them easily, it is faster and much easier to feed the wire under them and into the channel.
Looking down at the pax C pillar wire run. Zip tied the power lead and remote together.
This is little gem is worth it's weight in gold for grabbing the remote feed at Fuse 23 in the pax kick panel fuse box. Pop fuse 23 out, insert the fuse into the black fuse body, you will need a second fuse as there are two slots, one for the original circuit and, one for the line out. Insert remote wire into butt connector and plug into the 23 slot when ready for power. Make sure you are getting the Micro II fuse size and not the micro! I got the one above at AutoZone after stopping at 5 or 6 other parts stores looking for them. They are not widely carried in store so, if you are ordering parts, may as well throw one of these in your cart.
This is little guy right is a zip tie pliers/cutters. There is nothing sharper than a zip tie cut with dykes, scissors or a razor known to man. After years of pulling wire on aircraft, I never use a zip tie without cutting with these. This tool leaves a smooth even cut and even has an adjustment for zip tie tightness. It will handle a wide range of zip tie sizes as well.
Brands we sell include: Kicker,NavTV, PAC, CARiD, Dayton, Second Skin, Audio Control, Skar Audio, JL Audio, Focal and more.
PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
04-09-2019, 12:21 PM
