When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I ran 602's with a speaker adapter. I prefer 6.5's over 6x9's. Just personal preference. I think either will sound great in the door. I will say though, the best change I ever made to my midbass in any car was sound deadening and sealing the door as best as possible. The material may not be the cheapest but man is it worth it.
I just placed an order for the Morel Ultra 602's....components for up front and coax for the back. I can't wait to see how they sound. Have sound deadening material on the way as well to put on when replacing the speakers. Going to drive them as well as my pioneer sub from a 5-channel
Hello everyone, Im new to the forum and I would like to thank everyone on this post for sharing your installation details regarding our Sony "Crappy " sound system. I needed to ask those members who used the DSR1 with the dedicated Ford harness if they encounter any unwanted "hissing" noise on their system. I'm in the process of upgrading the sound system on my 2017 F250 Platinum and on this forum is where I've been able to find good applicable information for my project. Also, I realize the easy of installation that the DSR1 offers (minimal wring) but I do have to ask. Is it safe to use factory speaker wiring when sending 100wattsRMS + to aftermarket speakers? I've read that when sending that kind of RMS power to speakers it is recommended to go with at least 14gauge speaker wires.
Thank you!!
Hello everyone, Im new to the forum and I would like to thank everyone on this post for sharing your installation details regarding our Sony "Crappy " sound system. I needed to ask those members who used the DSR1 with the dedicated Ford harness if they encounter any unwanted "hissing" noise on their system. I'm in the process of upgrading the sound system on my 2017 F250 Platinum and on this forum is where I've been able to find good applicable information for my project. Also, I realize the easy of installation that the DSR1 offers (minimal wring) but I do have to ask. Is it safe to use factory speaker wiring when sending 100wattsRMS + to aftermarket speakers? I've read that when sending that kind of RMS power to speakers it is recommended to go with at least 14gauge speaker wires.
Thank you!!
Haven't experienced any hissing. In regards to upgrading speaker wire, I stayed with the factory wiring and my amp can push 125 watts a channel. I don't believe it's necessary because the truth is, you aren't going to be pushing 100 watts at all times, even 10% of the time. Regardless, the factory wiring can handle it fine. It's not worth going through the trouble of trying to wire through the molex plugs in the doors. Do a google search, it is a huge pain in the a**.
@dhmcfadin , believe me I've researched this wiring subject. I too favor keeping things as factory as possible, I just don't feel comfortable splicing wires on a new vehicle. Ill be taking going with a DSR1 and AC LC6.1200. Already have Focal Flax components for the front and K2 Coaxials for the rear doors. I'm still deciding what to get for the sub. I want to fit everything behind the rear seat without sacrificing any of the storage space underneath the rear seat. So, not sure what sub i may be able to fit. Thank you for your reply.
@dhmcfadin , believe me I've researched this wiring subject. I too favor keeping things as factory as possible, I just don't feel comfortable splicing wires on a new vehicle. Ill be taking going with a DSR1 and AC LC6.1200. Already have Focal Flax components for the front and K2 Coaxials for the rear doors. I'm still deciding what to get for the sub. I want to fit everything behind the rear seat without sacrificing any of the storage space underneath the rear seat. So, not sure what sub i may be able to fit. Thank you for your reply.
use the parrot harness and stinger speed wire and no splicing needed. I'm running 75rms(underated) and the factory wire can handle it. I am running the flax fronts as well, you will be very happy with them. As for the sub, look at my build thread in members section. I built a sub box for behind the seat for a jl audio 10tw and it sounds awesome. Highly recommended. If you need dimensions for the box let me know.
Ok so I now have a good understanding on the benefits of installing a DSR1 ( plug-n-play install & ability to eliminate the factory amp while keeping factory integration). However I'm a bit worry about some reports of users having software issues with the DSR1 as well as some "HISS" noise on their systems. Could I achieve the same level of integration by just simply installing the soon to be released Audio Control D6.1200 Amp with its integrated DSP, RTA and 8 channels of speaker level input? Theoretically with this amp I wouldn't need a DSR1 since the AMP has the capability to correct he base roll off and I can sum channels to get a full signal correct?
Thank you!
Ok so I now have a good understanding on the benefits of installing a DSR1 ( plug-n-play install & ability to eliminate the factory amp while keeping factory integration). However I'm a bit worry about some reports of users having software issues with the DSR1 as well as some "HISS" noise on their systems. Could I achieve the same level of integration by just simply installing the soon to be released Audio Control D6.1200 Amp with its integrated DSP, RTA and 8 channels of speaker level input? Theoretically with this amp I wouldn't need a DSR1 since the AMP has the capability to correct he base roll off and I can sum channels to get a full signal correct?
Thank you!
You are going to have much better integration with the DSR1 and no splicing. All Harness are plug and play at the back of the truck. It's very clean. Best part, taking your dash apart to install a harness and run wire is not a part of the DSR1. Everything is done behind the back seat.
In regard to the DSR1 over the lc 6.1200. I have the d-6.1200 and love that amp. He benefit of the DSR1 over the LC is: while both units provide a flat, clean, unaltered signal, 1. the DSR1 gets its signal before the factory amp which mean that the factory processing the Sony amp does is no longer a factor because the DSR1 completely removes that unit. 2. with the DSR1 you have the ability to adjust your chime volume where as the lc-6.1200 you do not have that ability. 3. Better, cleaner integration. It doesn't get more streamlined than this.
In regard to the issues you have read about the DSR1, I have owned one since they first released and let me tell you, there where a bunch a problems at the start. Rockford and Maestro have really listened to their customers concerns and all the issues you speak of have been resolved. Again, I know because I own this unit. The software has really been cleaned up. I have zero noise, hiss, anything. All chimes come through the correct speakers. Sound quality is excellent. Tuning is very advanced for a unit of this price. I've been really impressed. When Rockford/maestro create a unit for the 2018 b&o, I'll go this route again. It's the way to go.
You are going to have much better integration with the DSR1 and no splicing. All Harness are plug and play at the back of the truck. It's very clean. Best part, taking your dash apart to install a harness and run wire is not a part of the DSR1. Everything is done behind the back seat.
In regard to the DSR1 over the lc 6.1200. I have the d-6.1200 and love that amp. He benefit of the DSR1 over the LC is: while both units provide a flat, clean, unaltered signal, 1. the DSR1 gets its signal before the factory amp which mean that the factory processing the Sony amp does is no longer a factor because the DSR1 completely removes that unit. 2. with the DSR1 you have the ability to adjust your chime volume where as the lc-6.1200 you do not have that ability. 3. Better, cleaner integration. It doesn't get more streamlined than this.
In regard to the issues you have read about the DSR1, I have owned one since they first released and let me tell you, there where a bunch a problems at the start. Rockford and Maestro have really listened to their customers concerns and all the issues you speak of have been resolved. Again, I know because I own this unit. The software has really been cleaned up. I have zero noise, hiss, anything. All chimes come through the correct speakers. Sound quality is excellent. Tuning is very advanced for a unit of this price. I've been really impressed. When Rockford/maestro create a unit for the 2018 b&o, I'll go this route again. It's the way to go.
So I’ve decided to go the DSR1 route and AC LC6.1200 to power the door speakers. But my question is if I’m going active on this install setting my crossover curves with the DDR1 how should I connect the rear Focal Coaxial speakers ? These speakers even though they are coax style the do have separate inputs for tweeters and mid range. They are the Focal K2 165KRC. See pic below. How should I connect/configure them if using a DSR1/LC6.1200?
So I’ve decided to go the DSR1 route and AC LC6.1200 to power the door speakers. But my question is if I’m going active on this install setting my crossover curves with the DDR1 how should I connect the rear Focal Coaxial speakers ? These speakers even though they are coax style the do have separate inputs for tweeters and mid range. They are the Focal K2 165KRC. See pic below. How should I connect/configure them if using a DSR1/LC6.1200?
If you are going with the LC which has AudioControl's built in dsp, then I would use it for the crossover settings and not the DSR1. You would want the to configure the DSR1 to output a full, flat, un eq'ed signal on all channels to your LC 6.1200 and then let's the LC 6.1200 handle everything from there. Time alignment, gain, etc. In regard to coaxial rear speakers with passive crossovers, since your amp has 6 channels, your configuration on your will look like this:
Channel 1 & 2- Highpass-Active- Tweeters
Channel 3 & 4- (I prefer) band pass- Active- door speakers
Channel 5 & 6- full pass- passive- coaxial- let the standalone focal passive crossovers handle everything.
The speakers have specifications for what their maximum/minimum frequency range is . You will want to be conservative on your settings at first because a crossover cut off is not a flat line, it is gradual so there will be some lower and higher frequency overflow. Just keep that in mind to protect your speakers until you really dial everything in.
04-09-2018, 08:04 AM
