Fisherob

Hello, I have been doing a lot of reading here and have gotten a lot of info. I am set to install aftermarket goodies in my 2017 F-150 SuperCab non Sony system. Below is what I have so far.

Focal RCX-690 6x9 3way (front door)
Focal RCX-165 6 1/2 2 way(rear door)
Focal AP-4340 4 channel amp
Audiocontrol LCQ1
Custom T-harness for speaker wire tap

What I am wondering is will I be disappointed not using component speaker system? Is there anything I should know if I leave the center speaker and tweeters in the pillar? Also I would like to add a powered sub. Has anyone put one under the front seats? If so what model was used. What I have has to be better then stock. The audio control lets me do a lot with the signal but I’m not sure what crossover settings on the amp to use. Would I use LP, Full, or HP? I’m going to add a sub later but just using amp and speakers for now.

dhmcfadin

Focal RCX-690 6x9 3way (front door)- You need components not 3-ways. Tweeter in the a-pillar, midbass in the door. The Morel Maximo 6 are the same price as the focal but offer a much smoother sound with better midbass. Don't worry about 6x9 vs 6.5". Moot point.

Focal RCX-165 6 1/2 2 way(rear door)- good

Focal AP-4340 4 channel amp- good

Audiocontrol LCQ1- outdated and expensive technology. Replace this with a Dayton 408. The lcq1 offers nothing of value to your system other than added cost. The signal from your headunit is already flat. The Dayton is far superior.

Custom T-harness for speaker wire tap- pickup the FOR-11ck harness. Plug and play.

papermaker

The Dayton 408 is a DSP that will need tuning.

Fisherob

Hello unfortunately I have the front 6x9 coaxial and unable to return. Can I just disable the tweeters in the apillars. They suck anyways. The system still should sound a lot better. I went with the LCQ1 cause it seemed easier to use not to mention given to me from a friend. From the amp on the front speakers would I send a low pass, high pass,or full signal? Would that change after adding a powered sub? Also any recommendations on a power sub.

dhmcfadin

Good thing I offer remote tuning!

dhmcfadin

Disconnect the tweeters in that case. Set your amp to send a full frequency signal. No highpass or lowpass. Since you are passive, there arent any electronic crossovers needed from the lcq1. To papermakers point, the lcq1 also requires tuning but without seeing the frequency response of your speakers, it might be difficult. I'd recommend listening to your favorite songs on a good set of headphones then listen to the same song in your truck. Whatever instruments or vocals sound too loud or quiet, cross reference what frequency range each instrument or vocal corresponds to in the below graph. Then adjust up or down based on that frequency.

Fisherob

This is awesome information. Thanks

HushCarAudio

I think your sound stage will be completely off without running tweeters up top. Just an idea, keep them in after swapping the other old speakers out. See if you like the results.

Fisherob

Are you saying keep the tweeters hooked up even if the doors are component 3way? Will the amp power destroy the tweeters? This is interesting because I was also wondering what this will sound like. Are the tweeters crossed over by the radio or do they have their own crossover? Also could I just add aftermarket tweeters that might be able to handle the power?

dhmcfadin

Oem tweeters have a passive crossover on the back of them. You remove the tweeter, you remove the crossover. The signal is now full range. When you install new tweeters, you will need to install another crossover. The optimal configuration is midbass in the door and tweeter in the a-pillar. A true component set where the tweeter and midbass are designed to play with each other.