Stupid me just remembered I messed with my low pass filter. I apparently turned it down too low. Lol. Rap/EDM still thumps pretty good, rock and country is almost nothing.

Still thinking about going with a ported box and a different sub though. Lemme get a couple more paychecks under my belt and I’ll start pulling the trigger on some stuff. Finally got a job, got one check so far and it went straight to bills. Next one I’ll pull some aside and probably start on my box. I’ve got ideas to basically take what Ginty did, but make it a little bigger to hold my amp on it, and maybe gain some more space for a different sub. Not sure what will happen yet. I do my projects really weird btw, I’ll talk about stuff for months before I pull the trigger. Lol

Anyone ever heard of building a box that is ported with a plate that can close the port off and make it a sealed box? I’m kicking around the idea of doing that and keeping with a Pioneer sub. This one can be used ported or sealed. It needs a 3”x13” port which should be achievable behind the rear seat. If I used something like an electric exhaust cutout (with some rubber added for a better seal) I could theoretically change from a ported to a sealed box by flipping a switch. In theory this would give me the best of both worlds, but I can’t find anyone online that’s done it, so that makes me wonder if there’s a reason it won’t work.

Also, in my research I’m thinking the box I have is too small. My box is 0.35cf, the sub requires 0.35 on the low end, but once the sub is in there the box has around 0.33cf. Pioneer pairs this sub with this box, but I think it’s probably too small. That’s why I’m thinking about building a box based off of what gintyfab did, but tweaked to include a port, and to clear some of the stuff on the back of my seat (I’ve got modules on the back for the rear seat heaters).

For the port I was thinking a simple 3x3x13 port, then routing the wood at the port for a smooth transition. Im just a little concerned about buying a $300+ sub and then still not being happy. On mounting depth, to be able to lift the seat and utilize the whole floor I can’t exceed about 3.25” from what I’m seeing. Although if I needed to I could do something like plexiglass directly behind the sub to get more clearance.

Perfect! That means I’m not as crazy as I thought I was. Haha. Although maybe I am because I don’t see anyone doing it for car audio. I was thinking about anything from having a slot that would accommodate a piece of MDF with cork (or some other “seal”) on it, to having 4 bolts protruding through the box that I could put wingnuts on and bolt down a piece of MDF to cover the port. Electronic would be awesome, but I don’t think I could pull that off without spending more money than it’d be worth. Like you said, the pressure in that box would put a lot of force on whatever is covering the hole.

I would just build a sealed to spec and build a ported to spec and see which one sounds better. Trying to build a ported that can be converted to a sealed won't sound as nice as dedicated and probably cost about the same.

The only way one that can be converted will work is if I stick with the sub I have. The optimum enclosure is 0.6cf for sealed, and 0.6cf for ported. So building one of each then testing wouldn’t really change much. Most subwoofers, as y’all know, require a bigger box to go ported. This one doesn’t. I’m still kicking around ideas, but this one (assuming it would even work appropriately) seemed like the “best” of both worlds.

That’s what I was thinking too as I was doing my research. Even in the sealed it’s on the lower end.

Yeah, I’m just not sure the cost to make it work would be worth it. Lol

Its the Pioneer TS-SW2502S4. Here’s a link to the manual that gives the optimum sizes. It’s on page 4, along with other good info. https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...130TSS2502.PDF