dsg03svt

When I look up the Polk Audio DB6501 it says it won't fit in my F-150. (09 Supercrew). Whereas with the DB5251 it says it fits with that 6x8 -> 5.25 adapter.

Has anyone installed the DB6501 up front? I'm thinking maybe they are too deep?

dsg03svt

Nevermind, I've looked more into it and found that the 6.5" Polks should fit with that Scosche adapter plate. Polk's website states a 5" opening is needed and the adapter opens 5 1/16". Should go right in.

Also, I plan to line the plastic adapter plate with some dynamat for more insulation.

dsg03svt

Also, I canceled my order for the JL 10w0v3-4 and ordered instead a Polk Audio MM1040DVC so I can wire in parallel for a 2ohm load for 300 watts RMS.

Windup

I like the changes you made.

I have the Polk db6501 up front. There was no issue with fitting them other than I needed self tapping screws the attach the plate.

dsg03svt

Thanks. That's good to know.

Now a few more questions:

1. Do most run new speaker wire from the amplifier to the speakers? Or somehow hack the PAC FRD24 and run the amp to the PAC and splice in to the existing speaker wiring?

2. I was told I need a low pass filter, because the JL amp won't be able to block the higher signals well enough for good use of the subwoofer. Anyone with the JL 700/5 or a similar amp that does this have a comment? I would think with a $600 amplifier, the filter's in place should be good enough for most setups...

3. Will the setup I'm planning require ground loop isolators? Do most of you using the PAC setup to an amp install these? I haven't heard anyone talk about these, so I don't want to install extra parts if they aren't worth it.

Thanks!

bigred90gt

1. That is up t you. I personally do not want to hack up my PAC adapter, and feel that the stock wiring is too small for me, so I will be running wires from the amp straight to the speakers (front and rear).

2. I have NEVER, in all of the systems I have installed (regardless of the amp price) found the built in cross overs to be sufficient. I have always ended up purchasing a separate cross over. This is all personal preference, but in my opinion, the sound quality will never be sufficient without an external cross over for the sub amp.

3. Ground loop isolators will only be necessary if you cannot establish a good ground and you end up with engine noise. It is not a function of the PAC adapter, it is more an issue with the quality of your ground. My suggestion is to find a spot that you can safely drill a small hole without hitting anything, strip the paint inside the cab around the hole, and use a ring terminal on the ground wire with a bolt through the hole. Be sure to use a lock washer on the nut outside the cab, and put a bit of silicone on the outside to seal it and prevent water ingress.

dsg03svt

Ok. So for the low pass filter, could I use a scosche LOC80? I'm confused as to if that's a "crossover" or if its just a output converter.

Windup

Discloser, I'm not using a Pac/ Metera.

1. I personally think its too much of a pain to run new wire through each door loom. Your amp is putting out 75 watts and will benefit from a thicker gauge especially at the higher volumes. If your ok with drilling holes in the door molex run all new wires. I think the factory 20 AWG wire will be fine for normal volume levels.

2. The amp has a low pass filter that can be set to ether -12 or -24db per octave. That should be all you need. You might want to use a crossover instead of the Y-cables to get your 3 signals. You can also use an equalizer to also do this.

3. Shouldn't need one.

You can always add these things later.

Windup

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http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i60_crossovers.html

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