Adding 2 10's behind the rear seat 2016 SuperCrew
04-10-2017, 03:59 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Adding 2 10's behind the rear seat 2016 SuperCrew
Hello
I've searched the forum and seem to still have some questions about this possible mod and the things I will need to do. I have designed and built a box, approximately 34 inches wide, by 6 inches or so at the bottom and about 3.5 at the top. I have cut a small 90 degree angle out of the back of box to accommodate the weird roll at the bottom of the back cab. I'm using 2 pioneer ib flat 10's (TS-SW2502S4) in a box that's a tad small for the two of them. I'm hoping it sounds good, really wanted the 2 ohm load as compared to the 12 with a 4 ohm load as well as the additional cone area. I've used 3/4 inch mdf, I'm going to seal it with a white exterior paint (since my truck is oxford white) and then hopefully find a way to show it off through the existing rear carpet.
At this point I'm still confused about the plug for a subwoofer behind the rear driver's side door pillar. I have the XL with the 101a package. The build sheet gave me the option to add the subwoofer. Does Ford have a sub out built into these radios somewhere (even if it's a speaker level out)? Does the factory add on sub just cut into the signal from one of the rear speakers? What about the kicker VSS, it adds a small amp and sub amp, is their a harness kicker uses to get a sub out without stealing signal from the rear speaker (or speakers)? Does kicker have a sub out from the small amp of the vss package if I were to add it? Kicker's direct quote to me was that the small amp in the VSS does not have an RCA out, but that didn't really answer my question. It seems the documentation on this is harder to find than I figured and opinions vary on what comes on what trim and what that c pillar plug actually is.
Any help is greatly appreciated
Best Regards
Ben
I've searched the forum and seem to still have some questions about this possible mod and the things I will need to do. I have designed and built a box, approximately 34 inches wide, by 6 inches or so at the bottom and about 3.5 at the top. I have cut a small 90 degree angle out of the back of box to accommodate the weird roll at the bottom of the back cab. I'm using 2 pioneer ib flat 10's (TS-SW2502S4) in a box that's a tad small for the two of them. I'm hoping it sounds good, really wanted the 2 ohm load as compared to the 12 with a 4 ohm load as well as the additional cone area. I've used 3/4 inch mdf, I'm going to seal it with a white exterior paint (since my truck is oxford white) and then hopefully find a way to show it off through the existing rear carpet.
At this point I'm still confused about the plug for a subwoofer behind the rear driver's side door pillar. I have the XL with the 101a package. The build sheet gave me the option to add the subwoofer. Does Ford have a sub out built into these radios somewhere (even if it's a speaker level out)? Does the factory add on sub just cut into the signal from one of the rear speakers? What about the kicker VSS, it adds a small amp and sub amp, is their a harness kicker uses to get a sub out without stealing signal from the rear speaker (or speakers)? Does kicker have a sub out from the small amp of the vss package if I were to add it? Kicker's direct quote to me was that the small amp in the VSS does not have an RCA out, but that didn't really answer my question. It seems the documentation on this is harder to find than I figured and opinions vary on what comes on what trim and what that c pillar plug actually is.
Any help is greatly appreciated
Best Regards
Ben
04-10-2017, 04:41 PM
#2
Official HTT Greeter
That C-pillar plug is without a doubt the OEM subwoofer connector. NOW, with that said, it's been pretty hit or miss as to whether it works with an XL. Some are saying that it is missing something on the XL trims, but I don't think anyone knows exactly what or how to add that in. I think most XL owners have resorted to just tapping the rear speakers for signal.
The only thing you're likely to use that plug for is for audio signal and possibly remote turn-on. The remote is only 6V I believe and doesn't play nice with some amps.
The signal is still processed by the OEM headunit. So making changes in Forscan will alter the output of the signal wires at that plug. I have NOT seen/heard of anyone using an Oscope to tell exactly what the different settings do. It seems that everyone sets the settings a little differently. So there's going to be a good bit of changing Forscan options, adjusting the HU, and adjusting the amp. But you should be able to find the right combination for your specific setup.
The only thing you're likely to use that plug for is for audio signal and possibly remote turn-on. The remote is only 6V I believe and doesn't play nice with some amps.
The signal is still processed by the OEM headunit. So making changes in Forscan will alter the output of the signal wires at that plug. I have NOT seen/heard of anyone using an Oscope to tell exactly what the different settings do. It seems that everyone sets the settings a little differently. So there's going to be a good bit of changing Forscan options, adjusting the HU, and adjusting the amp. But you should be able to find the right combination for your specific setup.
04-10-2017, 04:55 PM
#3
That C-pillar plug is without a doubt the OEM subwoofer connector. NOW, with that said, it's been pretty hit or miss as to whether it works with an XL. Some are saying that it is missing something on the XL trims, but I don't think anyone knows exactly what or how to add that in. I think most XL owners have resorted to just tapping the rear speakers for signal.
The only thing you're likely to use that plug for is for audio signal and possibly remote turn-on. The remote is only 6V I believe and doesn't play nice with some amps.
The signal is still processed by the OEM headunit. So making changes in Forscan will alter the output of the signal wires at that plug. I have NOT seen/heard of anyone using an Oscope to tell exactly what the different settings do. It seems that everyone sets the settings a little differently. So there's going to be a good bit of changing Forscan options, adjusting the HU, and adjusting the amp. But you should be able to find the right combination for your specific setup.
The only thing you're likely to use that plug for is for audio signal and possibly remote turn-on. The remote is only 6V I believe and doesn't play nice with some amps.
The signal is still processed by the OEM headunit. So making changes in Forscan will alter the output of the signal wires at that plug. I have NOT seen/heard of anyone using an Oscope to tell exactly what the different settings do. It seems that everyone sets the settings a little differently. So there's going to be a good bit of changing Forscan options, adjusting the HU, and adjusting the amp. But you should be able to find the right combination for your specific setup.
Love relays
04-10-2017, 07:45 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Intriguing, I really want to keep the stock head unit. I get so tired of touch screens acting up, I hate the GPS (google on my phone has been exponentially more helpful than any in dash) and I really just like ***** and the basic look.
I think I'll look into ForScan, have seen it mentioned but not sure of how much it would be needed on the 101a package. May have to play a little and find out. If that plug can get me signal, that would be awesome. Is that 6V too high for speaker level inputs? Can I just run it through some sort of LOC to get it to RCA's without much problem? If it's a sub out, does it disregard changes to the fader and balance (that would be so ideal)?
I know I have a green cable coming up from that area and terminating at the rear seat latch behind the driver's seat. Looks an awful lot like a ground for something, that would make a lot of sense. I'll try and pop that off this weekend and investigate. Wonder if you could get an OEM plug or cable? I also don't want to put a small amp into the truck in the future and have the speaker level inputs amplified feeding the rear amp. Seems a little like over doing it while at the same time placing unnecessary risk on the sub amp.
Ben
I think I'll look into ForScan, have seen it mentioned but not sure of how much it would be needed on the 101a package. May have to play a little and find out. If that plug can get me signal, that would be awesome. Is that 6V too high for speaker level inputs? Can I just run it through some sort of LOC to get it to RCA's without much problem? If it's a sub out, does it disregard changes to the fader and balance (that would be so ideal)?
I know I have a green cable coming up from that area and terminating at the rear seat latch behind the driver's seat. Looks an awful lot like a ground for something, that would make a lot of sense. I'll try and pop that off this weekend and investigate. Wonder if you could get an OEM plug or cable? I also don't want to put a small amp into the truck in the future and have the speaker level inputs amplified feeding the rear amp. Seems a little like over doing it while at the same time placing unnecessary risk on the sub amp.
Ben
04-11-2017, 08:35 AM
#5
Official HTT Greeter
Intriguing, I really want to keep the stock head unit. I get so tired of touch screens acting up, I hate the GPS (google on my phone has been exponentially more helpful than any in dash) and I really just like ***** and the basic look. Same here. I like the bigger screen of the MFT, but I like the feel of buttons
I think I'll look into ForScan, have seen it mentioned but not sure of how much it would be needed on the 101a package. May have to play a little and find out. If that plug can get me signal, that would be awesome. Is that 6V too high for speaker level inputs? Can I just run it through some sort of LOC to get it to RCA's without much problem? If it's a sub out, does it disregard changes to the fader and balance (that would be so ideal)? Forscan is absolutely wonderful for the Lariat guys. They have most of the hardware of the Limited, Plat, KR, but it's not turned on or missing just a plug or something. So Forscan just turns that stuff on and they gain some expensive features for cheap. For us guys lower on the pole (I have a 301A) the biggest advantage to FS is not going to a dealer for certain stuff. You can do a few tire size changes(but cannot enter a custom size), enable/disable certain warning messages (i.e. door ajar) enable the sub and trailer brake controller (ITBC). And my favorite was global windows (windows lowered/raised by key FOB) The OEM sub plug has, IIRC, 5 or 6 wires to it, in no certain order (power, ground, +, -, remote...I think that's all) The power and ground (red and black/violet stripe) are both quite small, way too small for my 900W peak amp. So I ran a new 4AWG to the battery and another to the seat latch bracket for ground. YMMV
I know I have a green cable coming up from that area and terminating at the rear seat latch behind the driver's seat. Looks an awful lot like a ground for something, that would make a lot of sense. I'll try and pop that off this weekend and investigate. Wonder if you could get an OEM plug or cable? I'm not sure what wire that is, probably a ground for something. You can ground your amp to any of the seat brackets. There is an OEM pig-tail that you can buy to plug into the sub connector. But I found it unnecessary as I only used the 2 signal wires. I did tap into the remote wire later, but I think it was of no use as my amp senses signal to turn on when using the speaker level inputs. I also don't want to put a small amp into the truck in the future and have the speaker level inputs amplified feeding the rear amp. Seems a little like over doing it while at the same time placing unnecessary risk on the sub amp.there's nothing wrong with using speaker level inputs, a lot of amps will have a low-pass filter that will limit output to a certain max-frequency, say 80Hz. Anything above that is suppressed. If you want to add 2 x 10" subs, I would STRONGLY suggest adding an amp. The stock HU isn't very powerful. Remember, both OEM sub units include amps for a reason, and they are only single 8" subs.
Ben
I think I'll look into ForScan, have seen it mentioned but not sure of how much it would be needed on the 101a package. May have to play a little and find out. If that plug can get me signal, that would be awesome. Is that 6V too high for speaker level inputs? Can I just run it through some sort of LOC to get it to RCA's without much problem? If it's a sub out, does it disregard changes to the fader and balance (that would be so ideal)? Forscan is absolutely wonderful for the Lariat guys. They have most of the hardware of the Limited, Plat, KR, but it's not turned on or missing just a plug or something. So Forscan just turns that stuff on and they gain some expensive features for cheap. For us guys lower on the pole (I have a 301A) the biggest advantage to FS is not going to a dealer for certain stuff. You can do a few tire size changes(but cannot enter a custom size), enable/disable certain warning messages (i.e. door ajar) enable the sub and trailer brake controller (ITBC). And my favorite was global windows (windows lowered/raised by key FOB) The OEM sub plug has, IIRC, 5 or 6 wires to it, in no certain order (power, ground, +, -, remote...I think that's all) The power and ground (red and black/violet stripe) are both quite small, way too small for my 900W peak amp. So I ran a new 4AWG to the battery and another to the seat latch bracket for ground. YMMV
I know I have a green cable coming up from that area and terminating at the rear seat latch behind the driver's seat. Looks an awful lot like a ground for something, that would make a lot of sense. I'll try and pop that off this weekend and investigate. Wonder if you could get an OEM plug or cable? I'm not sure what wire that is, probably a ground for something. You can ground your amp to any of the seat brackets. There is an OEM pig-tail that you can buy to plug into the sub connector. But I found it unnecessary as I only used the 2 signal wires. I did tap into the remote wire later, but I think it was of no use as my amp senses signal to turn on when using the speaker level inputs. I also don't want to put a small amp into the truck in the future and have the speaker level inputs amplified feeding the rear amp. Seems a little like over doing it while at the same time placing unnecessary risk on the sub amp.there's nothing wrong with using speaker level inputs, a lot of amps will have a low-pass filter that will limit output to a certain max-frequency, say 80Hz. Anything above that is suppressed. If you want to add 2 x 10" subs, I would STRONGLY suggest adding an amp. The stock HU isn't very powerful. Remember, both OEM sub units include amps for a reason, and they are only single 8" subs.
Ben
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2016-f...0/#post5089771
P.S. Sorry about all the colors, it's just easier to answer specific questions that way.
04-11-2017, 01:48 PM
#6
Intriguing, I really want to keep the stock head unit. I get so tired of touch screens acting up, I hate the GPS (google on my phone has been exponentially more helpful than any in dash) and I really just like ***** and the basic look.
I think I'll look into ForScan, have seen it mentioned but not sure of how much it would be needed on the 101a package. May have to play a little and find out. If that plug can get me signal, that would be awesome. Is that 6V too high for speaker level inputs? Can I just run it through some sort of LOC to get it to RCA's without much problem? If it's a sub out, does it disregard changes to the fader and balance (that would be so ideal)?
I know I have a green cable coming up from that area and terminating at the rear seat latch behind the driver's seat. Looks an awful lot like a ground for something, that would make a lot of sense. I'll try and pop that off this weekend and investigate. Wonder if you could get an OEM plug or cable? I also don't want to put a small amp into the truck in the future and have the speaker level inputs amplified feeding the rear amp. Seems a little like over doing it while at the same time placing unnecessary risk on the sub amp.
Ben
I think I'll look into ForScan, have seen it mentioned but not sure of how much it would be needed on the 101a package. May have to play a little and find out. If that plug can get me signal, that would be awesome. Is that 6V too high for speaker level inputs? Can I just run it through some sort of LOC to get it to RCA's without much problem? If it's a sub out, does it disregard changes to the fader and balance (that would be so ideal)?
I know I have a green cable coming up from that area and terminating at the rear seat latch behind the driver's seat. Looks an awful lot like a ground for something, that would make a lot of sense. I'll try and pop that off this weekend and investigate. Wonder if you could get an OEM plug or cable? I also don't want to put a small amp into the truck in the future and have the speaker level inputs amplified feeding the rear amp. Seems a little like over doing it while at the same time placing unnecessary risk on the sub amp.
Ben
The following 2 users liked this post by Wyo11Scab:
2016oxw (04-11-2017),
SixShooter14 (04-11-2017)
04-11-2017, 02:05 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
yeah, when I originally read it I was thinking 6V like an RCA input...understand now that it is in place of a normal 12V turn on lead, but thanks
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04-11-2017, 02:12 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
This is a link to my build showing the OEM sub plug that's in the C-pillar.
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2016-f...0/#post5089771
P.S. Sorry about all the colors, it's just easier to answer specific questions that way.
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2016-f...0/#post5089771
P.S. Sorry about all the colors, it's just easier to answer specific questions that way.
Do you have a part number for the OEM Plug to that rear pillar SixShooter? I would prefer to use the plug and cut the wire on it as opposed to the ones on the truck. Don't know that I will ever need that plug (or the sub it goes to) but would rather permanently alter on the other side of it.
04-11-2017, 02:29 PM
#9
Official HTT Greeter
I understand I'll need an amp, that isn't in question. I was concerned about using speaker level inputs now on a sub amp, and then placing a 4 channel amp in later. If I were to do that, I would be amplifying the speaker level input to the sub amp. Not sure off hand how that would effect the sub amp. Also not sure how the sub amp will effect those rear speakers if it is drawing part of the current for them. Just seems unnecessary if I can get some sort of factory sub signal coming from the radio.
Do you have a part number for the OEM Plug to that rear pillar SixShooter? I would prefer to use the plug and cut the wire on it as opposed to the ones on the truck. Don't know that I will ever need that plug (or the sub it goes to) but would rather permanently alter on the other side of it.
Do you have a part number for the OEM Plug to that rear pillar SixShooter? I would prefer to use the plug and cut the wire on it as opposed to the ones on the truck. Don't know that I will ever need that plug (or the sub it goes to) but would rather permanently alter on the other side of it.
This should be the pigtail to plug into the factory wires.
wpt1212
04-11-2017, 03:43 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the part number. It appears I have the plug, can feel it with several wires coming out of it and partially see it. Will need to pop that c pillar panel off before I order to make sure. Do you have any idea where that sub signal starts at? Is it a separate output from the head unit? Just wondering if they didn't piggy back off the driver's side door speaker somewhere between point A and B.