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So I have had my truck for a few months now and have been collecting items for my audio build which I'm about to start this weekend. Friday it will get dropped with the Belltech SP1000 kit, and get the new Racer Innovations headlights installed. I already ran my power, and one 9 conductor wire set to the back already as I temporarily had my amp/sub combo from my last vehicle in the truck for the last month.
But my upcoming work will include the following stuff:
For-11CK Harness
Dayton Audio 408DSP w/BT
Kicker CXA 300.3 4 channel amp
Kicker 6.5 DSC6504
Kicker 6x9 DSC69304
Mount rings and connectors
Fast rings
RF R500X1D amp
2-RW10D2 Alpine Type R 10's
FOXBOX
4 gauge Power/Ground to battery
second set of 9 conductor wire (partially for expansion)
50 Square ft of sound deadener
I'll be sure to add some pics along the way, and only plan to use the front channel as input for a complete unfiltered signal.
looks like a good start but you could really use a much more powerful sub amp. your alpines are going to laugh at the rockford. type-r subs are rated at 750rms each and are notoriously hungry for gobs of power over that. even with a single sub you will not be able to give it the power it wants with that amp. i would suggest looking into a larger amp or considering downgrading to a single sub (if you don't have the box yet that is).
sure, it will work, but it's kind of like only using 1st and 2nd gear to drive on the freeway - it will still get the job done but you probably won't be as happy as you could be.
-edit-
if you wanted to stay in the same family of amps you could go with this one:
but if you did i would suggest getting the D4 versions of the subs instead of the D2. you could throw at least 600rms to each sub with that amp and a pair of D4 subs. the other thing you would have to do would be to upgrade your wiring, or make another run of 8g for the 4 channel and leave the 4g for the larger sub amp.
looks like a good start but you could really use a much more powerful sub amp. your alpines are going to laugh at the rockford. type-r subs are rated at 750rms each and are notoriously hungry for gobs of power over that. even with a single sub you will not be able to give it the power it wants with that amp. i would suggest looking into a larger amp or considering downgrading to a single sub (if you don't have the box yet that is).
sure, it will work, but it's kind of like only using 1st and 2nd gear to drive on the freeway - it will still get the job done but you probably won't be as happy as you could be.
-edit-
if you wanted to stay in the same family of amps you could go with this one:
but if you did i would suggest getting the D4 versions of the subs instead of the D2. you could throw at least 600rms to each sub with that amp and a pair of D4 subs. the other thing you would have to do would be to upgrade your wiring, or make another run of 8g for the 4 channel and leave the 4g for the larger sub amp.
Yeah I get the power thing, I currently have one type R at about 350 watts and it sounds amazing, so doubling down on woofers and power should hopefully yield the same result. I’m already partially deaf from tanks lol, so I’m not trying to set any SPL records just a good clean sound. If it’s lacking I will upgrade quickly!
Got started tonight with the removal of the rear seats and interior, and plenty of sound deadening material.
Excellent start and money well spent on the sound deadening! While you are back there, I would throw a little adhesive or caulking around those cab vents. They are notorious for leaking or flat falling out of their holr. Just a little preventative maintenance.
Excellent start and money well spent on the sound deadening! While you are back there, I would throw a little adhesive or caulking around those cab vents. They are notorious for leaking or flat falling out of their holr. Just a little preventative maintenance.
thanks for that suggestion, I can’t believe how much air/noise they leak just driving around. I went for a ride without the seats back in and it’s all road noise without the pad and seats installed by the vents. I will caulk them tomorrow.
i got an extra 4g ground wire I’m going to run while it’s mostly apart to ground at the battery after your other suggestion. I have some more sheets of sound deadened for each door also.
I’m mostly excited to mess around with the Dayton DSP late this weekend.
thanks for that suggestion, I can’t believe how much air/noise they leak just driving around. I went for a ride without the seats back in and it’s all road noise without the pad and seats installed by the vents. I will caulk them tomorrow.
i got an extra 4g ground wire I’m going to run while it’s mostly apart to ground at the battery after your other suggestion. I have some more sheets of sound deadened for each door also.
I’m mostly excited to mess around with the Dayton DSP late this weekend.
Brands we sell include: Kicker,NavTV, PAC, CARiD, Dayton, Second Skin, Audio Control, Skar Audio, JL Audio, Focal and more.
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So tonight I pulled the passenger seat and pulled up the carpet and did my wiring runs. I ran two separate batches of wires, one set for signal, and one set of 4 gauge power/ground.
the signal batch contained two sets of 9 conductor wire, probably overkill but one set has the front channel input, and the other is wired to the truck speakers which will push sound from the 4 channel amp. I have room to expand options with the extra wires in the other set.
I wired all the signal sets to the radio harness and ran thin bass **** wire with this group. Signal wires are running along side the center console to the back wall. Power and ground group are run along the passenger side of the truck door channel with a lot of other factory wiring to the back wall. This wire will all terminate to the amp rack behind the rear seat on the bigger seat side. Tomorrow after work I will replace all the speakers and do more sound deadening in all the doors. Then build the amp rack for drop in as one unit.
02-26-2019, 05:26 PM
2018 XLT Screw audio build thread
