2018 XLT s-crew 7 Speaker System Upgrades?
#11
Correct unless you are running crazy wattage to each speaker. According to Google fu 18 guage, 120 watts at 4 ohms per speaker. there is almost never a reason to run new wire.
I like the DSR1 as it gives the most tinkering on a graphical level (read computer pointy clicky) for the money. Of course there is better/more money out there but to keep factory head unit and not looking to go crazy it is very good.
I like the DSR1 as it gives the most tinkering on a graphical level (read computer pointy clicky) for the money. Of course there is better/more money out there but to keep factory head unit and not looking to go crazy it is very good.
#13
Senior Member
You can get the ISO-SOT-984-w harness (same as FOR-11ck) for under $30 and just run the speaker wires (w/ soldered RCAs) straight into your DSP. Check out Dayton Auido's DSP-408. It's 4 in and 8 out, so it would be easy to run multiple amps. It gets a lot of praise over on DIYMA and can be had for $150 (half MSRP) from parts-express.
#14
Hum I did not know Dayton made one. Will it take hight level inputs?
I could look myself but I'm going to ban myself from that site.... To many shiny objects for me to ogle and probably start new projects with.
I could look myself but I'm going to ban myself from that site.... To many shiny objects for me to ogle and probably start new projects with.
#15
Senior Member
Was just released this year. I believe it will take high level, but you can also convert to low level via Forscan.
#16
How is this project going? I have a 1 week old 2018 XLT Crew and wanted to do the same thing. The only thing I'm considering doing different is buying a 5/6 channel amp with DSP built into it and custom building a box to go behind the rear seat. This is assuming I can find a 5/6 channel amp with built in DSP and the ability to do speaker level inputs. My hope is that I can fit the amp and a small custom 10" sub box back behind the seat and leave the under the seat storage area intact. Back in the day I always liked JL stuff so I've been using 10TW1-4 as my baseline to crunch my numbers and I think it's possible but does not leave a ton of room for the amp without going over my fabrication skill level.
If you get the parrot harness and have the 4 channels going back to your amp for the door speakers, is it still valuable or important to activate the factory sub harness in the c pillar to use for the sub input? Would it be better to somehow use those 4 inputs for the sub also. I'm sure there is a way to do it either by splitting the wires physically or in the software of the DSP but this is all new to me.
If you get the parrot harness and have the 4 channels going back to your amp for the door speakers, is it still valuable or important to activate the factory sub harness in the c pillar to use for the sub input? Would it be better to somehow use those 4 inputs for the sub also. I'm sure there is a way to do it either by splitting the wires physically or in the software of the DSP but this is all new to me.
#17
How is this project going? I have a 1 week old 2018 XLT Crew and wanted to do the same thing. The only thing I'm considering doing different is buying a 5/6 channel amp with DSP built into it and custom building a box to go behind the rear seat. This is assuming I can find a 5/6 channel amp with built in DSP and the ability to do speaker level inputs. My hope is that I can fit the amp and a small custom 10" sub box back behind the seat and leave the under the seat storage area intact. Back in the day I always liked JL stuff so I've been using 10TW1-4 as my baseline to crunch my numbers and I think it's possible but does not leave a ton of room for the amp without going over my fabrication skill level.
If you get the parrot harness and have the 4 channels going back to your amp for the door speakers, is it still valuable or important to activate the factory sub harness in the c pillar to use for the sub input? Would it be better to somehow use those 4 inputs for the sub also. I'm sure there is a way to do it either by splitting the wires physically or in the software of the DSP but this is all new to me.
If you get the parrot harness and have the 4 channels going back to your amp for the door speakers, is it still valuable or important to activate the factory sub harness in the c pillar to use for the sub input? Would it be better to somehow use those 4 inputs for the sub also. I'm sure there is a way to do it either by splitting the wires physically or in the software of the DSP but this is all new to me.
Currently, I am trying to figure out if I want 1 or 2 10" subs. Looking at boxes from subthump.com or supercrewsound.com. If anyone has any input on the difference between 1 or 2, I would welcome the comments.
#18
I just came inside from installing the amplified plugnplay kit that has the sub converter and amp kit.
At the same time I installed Memphis audio 6x9's in the front doors.
The result is night and day from what it was.
I have a pair of 6.5's for the back doors that I'll probably install tomorrow.
Now I just have to decide what subwoofer and amp to fit behind the rear seats.
At the same time I installed Memphis audio 6x9's in the front doors.
The result is night and day from what it was.
I have a pair of 6.5's for the back doors that I'll probably install tomorrow.
Now I just have to decide what subwoofer and amp to fit behind the rear seats.
#19
I just came inside from installing the amplified plugnplay kit that has the sub converter and amp kit.
At the same time I installed Memphis audio 6x9's in the front doors.
The result is night and day from what it was.
I have a pair of 6.5's for the back doors that I'll probably install tomorrow.
Now I just have to decide what subwoofer and amp to fit behind the rear seats.
At the same time I installed Memphis audio 6x9's in the front doors.
The result is night and day from what it was.
I have a pair of 6.5's for the back doors that I'll probably install tomorrow.
Now I just have to decide what subwoofer and amp to fit behind the rear seats.