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2018 XLT Non Sony, 7 8" sync, speaker/amp upgrade!

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Old 04-14-2018, 12:07 PM
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Default 2018 XLT Non Sony, 7 8" sync, speaker/amp upgrade!

I've read a ton on this forum and others about the stock system and want to see if I can confirm a few things. My truck (still on order!) is a 8" sync, with nav, 7 speaker non sony system.

My ultimate goal is to add 2 amps, 1 for the door speakers and 1 for subwoofer that I'll put under the seat.

OK....so if I do not use Forscan what is options/part list to accomplish this? What harnesses do I need to order, what DSP do I need? happy to hear options I can use. It would really be helpful is someone could say...you need to use xyz with this part or if you use this part you'll need abc connector...etc.

Second, can someone confirm the door speaker sizes for front and rear? Pillars...etc. I believe the front doors will hold a 6.5 or a 6x9 speaker? Rear doors looks like 6.5 coxial work best?

Forscan is not an option for me as I will ultimately be having my system installed by a audio dealer and i know they will want to use equipment for this project. This basshead would much appreciate any help you can give me!
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Old 04-14-2018, 04:10 PM
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Here is a link to my build.

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2018-f...-build-408913/

It will give you an idea to start with atleast.
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Old 04-14-2018, 04:38 PM
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Two ways to do it without Forscan.
  1. Line out converter to convert the speaker level to low level RCA, then plug the RCA's into the amplifier(s)
  2. Find an amplifier(s) that accepts speaker level inputs
Have you ever considered a five channel amplifier? Simplifies the install vs two separate amplifiers unless you are looking for some serious wattage.

Run separates up front with 6x9 midbass in the front doors. Tweeters in the a pillars or sail panels. 6.5 coaxials in the rear. Brand is up to you. I would suggest Image Dynamics, Focal, Morel, or JL audio <--- that set looks crappy, or Audiofrog plus tweeter plus crossover or Hybrid Audio Unity series. The Audiofrog and Hybrid Audio set ups get expensive fast but are really high end.

Here's the harness you need (Parrot FOR-11CK).

For a line out converter, look at the Audiocontrol series.

Amplifiers are up to you. Something like this has speaker level inputs and allows you to avoid having a Line out converter. Audiocontrol LC-6.1200. 125x4 plus bridge two channels for 400watts to a subwoofer. There are other 5 channel option too. Or go with a 4 channel and a separate monoblock.

Subwoofer(s) are up to you and how much bass you want and how much space you wish to sacrifice.

Your installer will let you know how much power wire, speaker wire, fuses, blocks, RCA's, etc you need. You will be looking at $200-$400 in install materials without labor.
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kanadian-kaos View Post
Two ways to do it without Forscan.
  1. Line out converter to convert the speaker level to low level RCA, then plug the RCA's into the amplifier(s)
  2. Find an amplifier(s) that accepts speaker level inputs
Have you ever considered a five channel amplifier? Simplifies the install vs two separate amplifiers unless you are looking for some serious wattage.

Run separates up front with 6x9 midbass in the front doors. Tweeters in the a pillars or sail panels. 6.5 coaxials in the rear. Brand is up to you. I would suggest Image Dynamics, Focal, Morel, or JL audio <--- that set looks crappy, or Audiofrog plus tweeter plus crossover or Hybrid Audio Unity series. The Audiofrog and Hybrid Audio set ups get expensive fast but are really high end.

Here's the harness you need (Parrot FOR-11CK).

For a line out converter, look at the Audiocontrol series.

Amplifiers are up to you. Something like this has speaker level inputs and allows you to avoid having a Line out converter. Audiocontrol LC-6.1200. 125x4 plus bridge two channels for 400watts to a subwoofer. There are other 5 channel option too. Or go with a 4 channel and a separate monoblock.

Subwoofer(s) are up to you and how much bass you want and how much space you wish to sacrifice.

Your installer will let you know how much power wire, speaker wire, fuses, blocks, RCA's, etc you need. You will be looking at $200-$400 in install materials without labor.
Sorry for the delay in my response...we've been without power for 21 hours....lovely ice storm in Ontario Canada.

Thank you so much for the information this helps me tremendously! I thought that the factory stereo might do something funky to the signal like the sony setup does. i am happy to use a LOC or something similar to make RCA outputs from speaker level inputs. My current car is a 2014 escape which has a custom setup and i was able to just use LOC.

I was thinking the F150 would have some bass roll off or some time of filtering by the headunit. Awesome stuff.
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Ajb1205 View Post
Here is a link to my build.

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2018-f...-build-408913/

It will give you an idea to start with atleast.
Thank you, checking out your build now. Not bad!
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by supercanadian View Post
I thought that the factory stereo might do something funky to the signal like the sony setup does.
It supposedly does some funky EQ'ing depending on the volume. You should just change the settings yourself in forscan. I ordered my adapter off amazon.
OHP Ford ELMconfig USB device 500kbit/s ELM327 compatible interface with MS-CAN switch for Forscan OHP Ford ELMconfig USB device 500kbit/s ELM327 compatible interface with MS-CAN switch for Forscan
, ,---- stupid link redirects to amazon.ca. Just copy and paste the name and go to amazon.com, way cheaper. You just need a laptop and download the free software. Cheaper than a LOC.

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Old 04-15-2018, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Kanadian-kaos View Post
It supposedly does some funky EQ'ing depending on the volume. You should just change the settings yourself in forscan. I ordered my adapter off amazon. OHP Ford ELMconfig USB device 500kbit/s ELM327 compatible interface with MS-CAN switch for Forscan, ,---- stupid link redirects to amazon.ca. Just copy and paste the name and go to amazon.com, way cheaper. You just need a laptop and download the free software. Cheaper than a LOC.
Interesting. If the HU does alter the signal as the volume goes up that will definitely be an impact on me as the simple fact of upgrading the sound is to go louder.

I think I'll have to do the Forscan option then I'll use some cheap LOC or maybe something from JL or Audiocontrol for speaker to RCA outputs.

Is there a "how to video/post about how to use Forscan for the audio part? I did a search and there are about 2.4 million posts....now including mine about using it. I think I'll watch some videos as i do have a few weeks before I get my truck.

You were 100% right it is like 108 bucks on .ca and only 29 on .com! wow. Gladly using the US amazon. Thanks for the help and saving me money!
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Old 04-15-2018, 09:33 PM
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Forscan can turn your speaker level inputs into RCA low levels outputs (you just have to splice the speaker wires to rcas, there are videos, it is easy) AND flatten the DSP/EQ. I was looking at the same thing as you (LOC) and quickly realized Forscan is simpler... plus you can do more other AWESOME stuff.

There are videos on how to use Forscan on youtube. I haven't even gotten to that as my gear is still in the mail.

Read this thread too.

FORSCan codes:
ACM
727-01-01 xx5A xxxx xxxx This one makes the factory outputs a low level for an aftermarket amp.
727-01-02 00xx This one flattens the factory EQ.
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Old 04-16-2018, 01:07 PM
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If you order that (Parrot FOR-11CK). make certain to follow each speaker wire to the pin and verify the connection. A couple members are having issues with the manufacturer incorrectly pinning the dang thing.
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Old 04-16-2018, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by HushCarAudio View Post
If you order that (Parrot FOR-11CK). make certain to follow each speaker wire to the pin and verify the connection. A couple members are having issues with the manufacturer incorrectly pinning the dang thing.
Seriously. WTF. That could cause some serious damage. So compare it to the stock harness before hooking it up? Or is there a picture/diagram to confirm what is suppose to go where?
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