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How far do you plan to expand your audio? If you're going to stop with just speakers,then soldering a cap in line with the tweeter could be what your looking for. You'll still need to adapt the factory tweeter plug, and I don't know if there is an off the shelf adapter for that so you may have to splice. There is also no easy way to get a wire from the door, into the cab. Yes, there is a boot running between the door and cab, but in that boot is a (bulkhead) plug. You'll have to put pins on the wires and insert them into open ports in both sides of the plug to make this work.
I had the same quandary when I initially installed my component set. I realized that I'd eventually be putting in an amp and a sub-woofer, and in doing so I would be needing one of these, FOR-11MKi. With this I can utilize the factory speaker wiring for my speakers and still connect an amp. Currently with this adapter I have the rear outputs connected normally and the front outputs going the the cross overs from my aftermarket speakers. From the cross over the woofer output goes back to the into the harness, to the factory wiring. I ran a new wire form the factory tweeter locations and connected them to the tweeter side of the cross overs. Easy to do is you have a metal coat hanger to straighten out and use a fish line. Then, with some double sided tape, I mounted the cross overs inside the dash (behind the CD player module).
When I am ready to install the amp (5 channel) and woofer I'll also order some 9 conductor speed wire. I'll use 2 runs of the speed wire, one from this adapter to the amp and one from the amp back to the adapter to power the speakers through the factory wiring. I'll then also pull signal off the front channel wiring for the sub-woofer input and set the amp for low pass filter on that channel. I have all this on order now, and hope it's here by Friday so I can install it this weekend...
Right now, I'm not planning to add an amp. I would have added the plug and play subwoofer, but they left the "plug" part out of my truck (2018 Lariat).
I think I can desolder the existing wiring and re-use the existing capacitor and (hopefully) the +- wires attached to the current tweeter, then just hook it back up to the stock. I read on a Youtube comment that someone was able to take the existing tweeters out of their bracket and replace them with the JBL club tweeters, so hopefully, it's something I'm able to do.
Right now, I'm not planning to add an amp. I would have added the plug and play subwoofer, but they left the "plug" part out of my truck (2018 Lariat).
I think I can desolder the existing wiring and re-use the existing capacitor and (hopefully) the +- wires attached to the current tweeter, then just hook it back up to the stock. I read on a Youtube comment that someone was able to take the existing tweeters out of their bracket and replace them with the JBL club tweeters, so hopefully, it's something I'm able to do.
Took out the stock tweeters today. Here's what I did, in case anyone else is going to try.
Less than five minutes to pull them out of the A pillar.
Started off by taking some player and pulling off the posts connecting the factory wire to the harness I pried back and forth until they came out. After that, I took a tiny screwdriver and started prying up on the top plate that has the factory harness adapter and capacitor, and went around the whole thing in a circle. After two times around the black goop started to peel away, and I was able to pry it off.
then, took another screwdriver and started to pry of the speaker guard. Basically went around and twisted the screwdriver by the clips. About two times around, and it came off.
Now, you can rip off the speaker material, then go around the magnet, cutting away any black goop. After going around once, I was able to push the magnet out. The jbl tweeter popped right in like it was made for it. I cut the plate at the bottom so it would fit, then trimmed it down to the harness adapter with a Dremel tool. Now I just super glued the top back on, put a few dabs of glue on the bracket and the speaker grill. Then, just soldered the positive speaker wire to the capacitor post, and the negative to the other post. My soldering looks awful, but it should work and it allowed me to keep the factory bracket and harness.
Sounds good so far!
06-04-2018, 12:35 PM
