Hunter1979

I have a question, hopefully, it's simple. It's been about 15 years since I've messed with speaker wire, so I'm definitely rusty.
I ordered the jbl club series 6500c component set. I'm planning to replace the front pillar tweeter and front door speakers. I wanted to keep everything as plug and play as possible, and this is what crutchfield suggested.
I see they come with crossovers. I have no clue what to do with those. I've researched, and I think I should take the input from the door speaker and wire it in to the input of the crossover. Then, from the crossover, run a wire out to the door speaker, and one out to the tweeter.
Is that correct?

If it is, what do I do with the stock wire running to the existing tweeter?

Also, is it easy to run a wire from the door speaker up to the pillar?


I've been searching, but I haven't found my answer yet, thought I would ask for help.

dhmcfadin

I would not use the crossover. Your factory speakers are already crossed over due to the fact that you have tweeters in the a-pillars and mids in the doors. This would mean that your tweets have a high frequency signal while the doors have a low frequency signal. If you take the output from the mid and run it through the aftermarket crossover, you will be eliminating the higher frequencies completely thus giving you a muffled sound.

That being said, when you remove your tweeters, look for a little capacitor soldered to the back of the tweeter. If it is present, you will want to unsolder it and then solder it in-line with your new tweets so you don't send low frequencies that can blow your new tweets. If you don't see a capacitor of any sort, simply connect you new tweets in the place of the factory tweets. Done deal.

For the mids, it's going to be plug and play. Nothing special. Make sure you use speaker adaptors of some sort. Crutchfield also sells the plug and play speaker plugs for our trucks. Don't use the crossovers that come with the aftermarket speakers.

Hunter1979

Thank you! That eases my mind a little bit. I saw a video where the guy removed the front pillar and replaced the tweeter. It had the capacitor on it, so if mine does, hopefully I'll be able to reconnect it.

The speakers I bought came with the harness and brackets so they should be pretty plug and play.

dhmcfadin

Good deal, it will be very simple then! Make sure you solder the capacitor on. You can also remove the capacitor with the soldering iron by de-soldering.

HushCarAudio

I respect your opinion dhmcfadin but if I'm running a component set that comes with crossovers I'd recommend using those instead. Of course, this is if I'm running my speakers on a clean signal from forescan. I refuse running aftermarket speakers without a clean flatten signal from the HU so that begs the question. The HU isn't aware of the speakers you are using so they will send whatever signal they are told to. That doesn't mean it will be best for the aftermarket speakers that you install. The component crossovers are built to protect the speakers with the given frequency range so that is my recommendation to keep using what the manufacturer recommends for their particular speaker set.

dhmcfadin

I also respect your opinion but on the factory deck, without Sony or B&O, the channels are split at the head unit then a capacitor is used at the tweeter. If you go the forscan route that is fine, but then you need to sum those channels because you will still have Tweeter Left and Right channels and Mids Left and Right. This would require the use of a DSP but OP is not using an aftermarket amp. He is just replacing the speakers. They would need to be summed if you want to use the aftermarket component crossovers or you wont be getting a full frequency signal to both your tweeters and mids. And by full frequency I also mean full power. Passive crossovers take energy to perform their job, if you run your crossover off just your left and right mid channels, you are limiting the total output of system because you are not using the full output of the deck. If you want to get super technical, you can find the exact cross over point based on the JBL speaker specs by using Jazzis Tuning Companion over on the DIY Mobile Audio Forum. This excel sheet will allow you to find the optimal crossover frequency for your speakers. Then you can go to Fry's and get the the exact capacitor for your application. But with a non-amplified system running off the stock headunit, the factory crossovers are more then adequate, not to mention conservative. Look at how cheap the factory speakers are already. There is not any frequency coming from that stock headunit to harm anything as long as you use the factory capacitors. That's just the truth. OP's speaker upgrade, without getting technical, will be a huge improvement.

Here's a link the tuning companion: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...eq-wizard.html

I mean absolutely no disrespect Hush, just trying help OP. I really appreciate you providing excellent deals for my next system and I appreciate all you do for the forum!

Hunter1979

Thanks both of you for your responses. I'm going to plan on keep the existing capacitor to keep the wiring as close to stock as I can.

One more question, does the center speaker have a capacitor? I saw one video on YouTube where it did, and one where it didn't.

dhmcfadin

That I couldnt tell you. You'd have to remove yours and see. It's easy to get out.

TommyBoy2017

How far do you plan to expand your audio? If you're going to stop with just speakers,then soldering a cap in line with the tweeter could be what your looking for. You'll still need to adapt the factory tweeter plug, and I don't know if there is an off the shelf adapter for that so you may have to splice. There is also no easy way to get a wire from the door, into the cab. Yes, there is a boot running between the door and cab, but in that boot is a (bulkhead) plug. You'll have to put pins on the wires and insert them into open ports in both sides of the plug to make this work.

I had the same quandary when I initially installed my component set. I realized that I'd eventually be putting in an amp and a sub-woofer, and in doing so I would be needing one of these, FOR-11MKi. With this I can utilize the factory speaker wiring for my speakers and still connect an amp. Currently with this adapter I have the rear outputs connected normally and the front outputs going the the cross overs from my aftermarket speakers. From the cross over the woofer output goes back to the into the harness, to the factory wiring. I ran a new wire form the factory tweeter locations and connected them to the tweeter side of the cross overs. Easy to do is you have a metal coat hanger to straighten out and use a fish line. Then, with some double sided tape, I mounted the cross overs inside the dash (behind the CD player module).

When I am ready to install the amp (5 channel) and woofer I'll also order some 9 conductor speed wire. I'll use 2 runs of the speed wire, one from this adapter to the amp and one from the amp back to the adapter to power the speakers through the factory wiring. I'll then also pull signal off the front channel wiring for the sub-woofer input and set the amp for low pass filter on that channel. I have all this on order now, and hope it's here by Friday so I can install it this weekend...

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

I am new to the 2018 setup. Are you saying that now the tweeter is run directly off the HU instead of it being tapped off the door speaker like previously?