2018 B&O Play upgrade: Part one
#171
Originally Posted by planetix
Wonder if they switched it all around for 2019 including the F-150 and Expeditions. Would be unusual either way for Ford to complicate their supply chain like this.
#172
Senior Member
Thread Starter
a2b is a digital car audio bus, but it can run over optical or twisted pair. I would be very surprised if they moved away from a2b itself as that means a more complicated (and heavier) wiring setup. It appears from that pic that they've removed the optical link though and gone with twisted pair copper. Why I couldn't say - perhaps it was limiting other aspects of the design, or less cost effective overall, or some other reason.
As we all know from this thread it certainly made some aspects of third party integration more complex, but I doubt that factored in to Ford's decision. Maybe it was service-related.
As we all know from this thread it certainly made some aspects of third party integration more complex, but I doubt that factored in to Ford's decision. Maybe it was service-related.
#173
Thanks for the kind words Pcar. This could be great news for you and a much cheaper solution to use only a harness.
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#175
Are you talking about for an AMP/Speakers? If you want to keep your factory wires use a For-11CK Kit. See link below.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-11CK-Ea...72.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-11CK-Ea...72.m2749.l2649
#176
Are you talking about for an AMP/Speakers? If you want to keep your factory wires use a For-11CK Kit. See link below.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-11CK-Ea...72.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-11CK-Ea...72.m2749.l2649
#177
No, do use my ideal. I did not realize you had the b&o, Hushaudio or dhmchadin would have a better answer to that question.
#178
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You can remove the B&O Amp behind the rear driver side seat completely with the B&O - I did with mine. The output from the HU comes through the digital bus, which the Zen unit interfaces with. For the speakers, you can simply grab those from the B&O amp interface, same wire bundle that has the CAN bus, and wire those to your amp speaker outputs (you'll most likely need to solder extensions to them) - there's really no reason to run new speaker wires for the doors unless you are using some seriously high wattage speakers (also, it is a pain due to how Ford designed the door boot). The instructions that came with the Zen (also available on their site) will give you the color codes for everything you need I believe.
The one exception for the speaker wires as previously mentioned are the pillar tweeters. You'll need to run new wire to those (assuming your new speakers are components, which I recommend) as the factory wiring for those doesn't run to the back of the cab like the door speaker wire. However the pillar tweeters are relatively easy to run wire to.
The one exception for the speaker wires as previously mentioned are the pillar tweeters. You'll need to run new wire to those (assuming your new speakers are components, which I recommend) as the factory wiring for those doesn't run to the back of the cab like the door speaker wire. However the pillar tweeters are relatively easy to run wire to.
#179
So did you figure out a place to tap your lc2i to get a proper signal for an aftermarket mono amp for a sub? I would like to add one but don't really want to drop 800$+ for the zen a2b
#180
Originally Posted by Dmundz
So did you figure out a place to tap your lc2i to get a proper signal for an aftermarket mono amp for a sub? I would like to add one but don't really want to drop 800$+ for the zen a2b