2018 B&O Play upgrade: Part one
#141
I'll send you a PM Mike.
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#142
I have been reading and reading, and see you all talk in depth about the ZEN A2B and how it is the seemless way to go with the B&O, but I have a 2018 XLT with just a plain OEM SYNC-3 7 speaker set up.
Is this still the route I want to go? I pretty much have looked at most of the same components you all have mentioned but have considered chossing the AUDIO Control d-6.1200 6Ch over the Audison 8.9. it puts out more power with less channels but I plan to disconnect my Center Channel.
Still trying to decide between JL C5's, Focals, or Hertz door and pillar speakers. Component for front and Coax for Rear, and running a separate Amp for a slim Amp, probably the 10tw3.
Any suggestions and advise on the speakers, AMP/DSP would be helpful, but my biggest question needing to be addressed is the factory to upgrade seemless component setup, like the ZEN or can I do the same thing with something like the idatalink Maestro when they design one for the 2018, which they haven't yet.
Thanks,
Vince
Is this still the route I want to go? I pretty much have looked at most of the same components you all have mentioned but have considered chossing the AUDIO Control d-6.1200 6Ch over the Audison 8.9. it puts out more power with less channels but I plan to disconnect my Center Channel.
Still trying to decide between JL C5's, Focals, or Hertz door and pillar speakers. Component for front and Coax for Rear, and running a separate Amp for a slim Amp, probably the 10tw3.
Any suggestions and advise on the speakers, AMP/DSP would be helpful, but my biggest question needing to be addressed is the factory to upgrade seemless component setup, like the ZEN or can I do the same thing with something like the idatalink Maestro when they design one for the 2018, which they haven't yet.
Thanks,
Vince
#143
Originally Posted by fourclowns
I have been reading and reading, and see you all talk in depth about the ZEN A2B and how it is the seemless way to go with the B&O, but I have a 2018 XLT with just a plain OEM SYNC-3 7 speaker set up.
Is this still the route I want to go? I pretty much have looked at most of the same components you all have mentioned but have considered chossing the AUDIO Control d-6.1200 6Ch over the Audison 8.9. it puts out more power with less channels but I plan to disconnect my Center Channel.
Still trying to decide between JL C5's, Focals, or Hertz door and pillar speakers. Component for front and Coax for Rear, and running a separate Amp for a slim Amp, probably the 10tw3.
Any suggestions and advise on the speakers, AMP/DSP would be helpful, but my biggest question needing to be addressed is the factory to upgrade seemless component setup, like the ZEN or can I do the same thing with something like the idatalink Maestro when they design one for the 2018, which they haven't yet.
Thanks,
Vince
Is this still the route I want to go? I pretty much have looked at most of the same components you all have mentioned but have considered chossing the AUDIO Control d-6.1200 6Ch over the Audison 8.9. it puts out more power with less channels but I plan to disconnect my Center Channel.
Still trying to decide between JL C5's, Focals, or Hertz door and pillar speakers. Component for front and Coax for Rear, and running a separate Amp for a slim Amp, probably the 10tw3.
Any suggestions and advise on the speakers, AMP/DSP would be helpful, but my biggest question needing to be addressed is the factory to upgrade seemless component setup, like the ZEN or can I do the same thing with something like the idatalink Maestro when they design one for the 2018, which they haven't yet.
Thanks,
Vince
I wouldn't consider Audison at all. The audiocontrol d-6.1200 is a great choice and it has the DM-810 dsp built in and accepts high level input. For simplicity sake, this would be the route I would recommend.
For sub amp, a tw3 likes about 500 watts. You can either bridge channels 5 and 6 on the 6.1200 or go with an independent sub amp. Like the Audiocontrol 1.800. I personally prefer to always have a little extra power on tap for future system updates.
Speakers are very subjective but components in the front and coax in the rear. What's you budget for speakers?
Check with Hush Car Audio on this forum. He can give you a damn good deal on equipment.
#144
ZEN is only needed for the B&O systems. You have the freedom to pick any DSP you want since yours is the non-amplified version. Regarding speaker brands, they are all pretty similar once you start getting into the higher dollar amounts. The JLs tend to be on a well-rounded level, Focals tend to be a tad bright for my tastes, Hertz is also well rounded but lacks a tad of midbass to me. These again are my observations but others will say differently. To judge these speakers is totally personal preference. My tastes in sound will differ from yours. The nice thing about using a DSP is that you can control pretty much how any speaker will sound to some degree. The AC D-6.1200 is a nice amp if you were wondering. It will pretty much do what you need it to do. If you wanted to run a fully active system then you'd need more channels/amp.
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PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
Serving the forum for over 8 years
Brands we sell include: Kicker, NavTV, PAC, CARiD, Dayton, Second Skin, Audio Control, Skar Audio, JL Audio, Focal and more.PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
#145
I can't run an active crossover system with the 6.1200?
Ch1 - L tweeter
Ch2 - R tweeter
Ch3 - L Mid
Ch4 - R Mid
Ch5 - L Coax rear
Ch6 - R Coax rear
Run the 1.800 for my Sub like Dhm suggested.
So I don't need anything else to run my system seamlessly with my steering controls and all Nav, chimes, Touch screen, etc? I was told it wouldn;t work without a unit like idatalink Maestro?
I don't need anything like the JL FiX or similar?
BTW, my budget for all components is 1k-1.5K but I can go more if need be.
Ch1 - L tweeter
Ch2 - R tweeter
Ch3 - L Mid
Ch4 - R Mid
Ch5 - L Coax rear
Ch6 - R Coax rear
Run the 1.800 for my Sub like Dhm suggested.
So I don't need anything else to run my system seamlessly with my steering controls and all Nav, chimes, Touch screen, etc? I was told it wouldn;t work without a unit like idatalink Maestro?
I don't need anything like the JL FiX or similar?
BTW, my budget for all components is 1k-1.5K but I can go more if need be.
#146
Originally Posted by fourclowns
I can't run an active crossover system with the 6.1200?
Ch1 - L tweeter
Ch2 - R tweeter
Ch3 - L Mid
Ch4 - R Mid
Ch5 - L Coax rear
Ch6 - R Coax rear
Run the 1.800 for my Sub like Dhm suggested.
So I don't need anything else to run my system seamlessly with my steering controls and all Nav, chimes, Touch screen, etc? I was told it wouldn;t work without a unit like idatalink Maestro?
I don't need anything like the JL FiX or similar?
BTW, my budget for all components is 1k-1.5K but I can go more if need be.
Ch1 - L tweeter
Ch2 - R tweeter
Ch3 - L Mid
Ch4 - R Mid
Ch5 - L Coax rear
Ch6 - R Coax rear
Run the 1.800 for my Sub like Dhm suggested.
So I don't need anything else to run my system seamlessly with my steering controls and all Nav, chimes, Touch screen, etc? I was told it wouldn;t work without a unit like idatalink Maestro?
I don't need anything like the JL FiX or similar?
BTW, my budget for all components is 1k-1.5K but I can go more if need be.
Yes you can run active with 6 channels and sub amp.
#148
Originally Posted by fourclowns
Am I looking pretty good for equipment that I’ve spoke of in that price range 1-1.5k, or no?
thanks for all your help you all have cleared up a lot of ?
thanks for all your help you all have cleared up a lot of ?
#149
I agree with the D-6.1200 suggestion. It's a great amp. As for speakers, have you considered the Audio Frog line? About twice the price but seems to be the best thing out there.
__________________
PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
Serving the forum for over 8 years
Brands we sell include: Kicker, NavTV, PAC, CARiD, Dayton, Second Skin, Audio Control, Skar Audio, JL Audio, Focal and more.PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
#150
had several questions for you, but went through this thread and it/you answered several of them, and it got me thinking of many different things. I know this is a hobby for you and that is awesome, and I wish I could do that, and I can probably part with quite a bit of money in a one time deal, but unlike you, I cannot keep switching out stuff over and over, my wife will kill me , but I can do a big one time stereo install, but its a one time deal I can't keep going back to the drawing board like you have been, which must be fun but $$$.
So my questions for you are this, its funny I did look and see Illusion Audio as another high end audio speaker, but I did see two specific things that caught my eye, I see in this post you left out Audio Frog as a high end speaker, and also somewhere in this thread in your end set up, you mention having two Audio Frog 12" subs as your end result over the MKv you have now. Should I spend and go that route, or doing any Audio Frog Sub will make me left my rear seat? or is there a way I can do it without lifting my rear seat?
So, I have gone around and around and gotten inputs from so many others and it is so confusing I would like your opinion, detailed if you could cause it seems like you have a lot of knowledge in a lot of different products and I really need some guidance on this, for the AMPs, and DSP, I am getting so many people who want to steer me over to JL but when I look it over and over I keep feeling that your right the Audio Control is the way to go, HOWEVER, the DSP is the Issue, the Dayton is way to low end for me and the Helix is more than I would like to spend, so what do you suggest is a good alternative that will do almost as good as the Helix, but not cost me..........I have looked at ARC Audio PS8, any of the high end Mosconi DSP's, or Audison Bi, etc. and how many channels do I really need. Can I get away with 6in and 8 out, or do I need more than that?
Just need some advice, Thanks.