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Thanks. I ended up not being able to go from battery across the engine and down the driver side. My stinger 4guage wire would have been about 6ft too short to reach where I wanted to install the amp. So I tried to run it through the big rubber grommet on pasenger behind the battery. Rubber is very thick and my fat hands couldn't really get to the grommet because of the fuse and relay bank. So I ended up running the cable from the battery down behind the wheel and into the hollow frame rail all the way back behind the rear door c pillar area. Entire cable from the fuse holder to the rear c pillar is protected by industrial loom. Not the thin split loom you get at auto parts stores. I installed a water tight grommet style fitting where the cable runs through the hole i drilled in the floor. Wire is very secure and very safe. No issues of anything catching it from underneat.
Thanks. I ended up not being able to go from battery across the engine and down the driver side. My stinger 4guage wire would have been about 6ft too short to reach where I wanted to install the amp. So I tried to run it through the big rubber grommet on pasenger behind the battery. Rubber is very thick and my fat hands couldn't really get to the grommet because of the fuse and relay bank. So I ended up running the cable from the battery down behind the wheel and into the hollow frame rail all the way back behind the rear door c pillar area. Entire cable from the fuse holder to the rear c pillar is protected by industrial loom. Not the thin split loom you get at auto parts stores. I installed a water tight grommet style fitting where the cable runs through the hole i drilled in the floor. Wire is very secure and very safe. No issues of anything catching it from underneat.
Here is where I ran my 1/0 gauge wire. It's on battery side, straight back. There is a grommet I took out right under that black harness deal. There is some sort of foam wall behind it (white), so you have to angle the cable to the left, and it's pretty hard to push through. I had to push it slowly 3-4 inches at a time, then go inside truck under kick panel and pull, then push again, then pull, push, pull, etc. Finally all through.
I was planning to run my 4gauge down the passenger side, through the grommet behind the relay box, and then through the door channel to the back. I'm debating removing the relay box, running the wire underneath, and then putting it back. Would this not be viable?
My '07 I ran it down the inside of the fender well (enclosed), and up into the door channel through a rubber grommet underneath. My goal is no new holes.
I picked up the Bit10 disc last weekend and will be dropping the truck off sat morning for them to retune it on all seats. I'll report back with the results.
Originally Posted by duxslayer
Sorry - typo - meant "De-EQ" which is the process the Bit10 uses to normalize eq and time alignment from factory. I'll be interested to hear from you what if you got yoequr low end back when they run that process again and retune after changing the setting to all seats.
You're right about Froscan - audio shops aren't likely going to want to get into that, because they sell gear instead of using it to flatten the signal. I would argue a DSP is still very helpful. Get the gear you need for Forscan and do it yourself. One issue with DSPs (all of them) is that you tune at one volume setting from the OEM headunit and the EQ curves from the OEM unit change with volume settings. Using forscan to flatten the signal significantly reduces those volume dependent changes - allowing you to use the stock volume **** with better SQ across the volume spectrum.
I picked up the Bit10 disc last weekend and will be dropping the truck off sat morning for them to retune it on all seats. I'll report back with the results.
Cool - hope it helps you get closer to what you were looking/listening for!
07-30-2017, 06:58 PM
