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2016 Upgrade Install Questions

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Old 09-06-2017, 02:55 PM
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Default 2016 Upgrade Install Questions

I am planning an upgrade of my 2016 XLT non-Sony, no nav system (it has the basic 4.2" screen). The upgrade will consist of an Alpine ktp-445u amp, a Clarion eqs-755 equalizer, and Infinity Reference 6.5" components in the front doors (no sub or anything at this point, but leaving room for future growth). I will be using the FOR-11CK Parrot wiring harness to avoid cutting any vehicle harness wires. Because the access going from the doors to the cab is obstructed by a molex plug, I plan on wiring the system as follows:

R&L channel out to eq speaker level inputs,
R&L RCA out to amp RCA inputs,
R&L channel outputs to R&L crossover inputs,
R&L crossover woofer out back to Parrot harness leading to speakers, and
R&L crossover tweeter out to replacement tweeters in factory A pillar tweeter location (requires running new tweeter wires from the crossovers- crossovers will be in the cab, obviously).

I plan to disconnect the factory tweeter wire and cap it in place. So, I actually have two questions. First, does anyone see a problem with this configuration? Second, I have read and read about getting power to this set up, but I am still not sure which way to get it done, and I really don't want a fire in my truck. I want the amp and eq to be on when the radio is on, and off when the radio is off. Are there any suggestions on the best way to get this done? If there's another thread that makes this clear, and I have missed it, please point me in the right direction.
Old 09-07-2017, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Six
I am planning an upgrade of my 2016 XLT non-Sony, no nav system (it has the basic 4.2" screen). The upgrade will consist of an Alpine ktp-445u amp, a Clarion eqs-755 equalizer, and Infinity Reference 6.5" components in the front doors (no sub or anything at this point, but leaving room for future growth). I will be using the FOR-11CK Parrot wiring harness to avoid cutting any vehicle harness wires. Because the access going from the doors to the cab is obstructed by a molex plug, I plan on wiring the system as follows:

R&L channel out to eq speaker level inputs,
R&L RCA out to amp RCA inputs,
R&L channel outputs to R&L crossover inputs,
R&L crossover woofer out back to Parrot harness leading to speakers, and
R&L crossover tweeter out to replacement tweeters in factory A pillar tweeter location (requires running new tweeter wires from the crossovers- crossovers will be in the cab, obviously).

I plan to disconnect the factory tweeter wire and cap it in place. So, I actually have two questions. First, does anyone see a problem with this configuration? Second, I have read and read about getting power to this set up, but I am still not sure which way to get it done, and I really don't want a fire in my truck. I want the amp and eq to be on when the radio is on, and off when the radio is off. Are there any suggestions on the best way to get this done? If there's another thread that makes this clear, and I have missed it, please point me in the right direction.
Should be ok but why the EQ?
Old 09-07-2017, 10:06 PM
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Thanks for the response! I added the EQ for a couple of reasons. One, because the HU only has a very basic 3 band EQ, and I generally like to have a little more control over the sound quality if I can get it (especially when dealing with a base-grade, stock HU). Also, this particular EQ also serves as a LOC, allowing me to use the more desirable RCA (Low) level inputs on the amp. This, however, is where I have run into a problem. The EQ also boosts the low-level voltage output to 8v. The Alpine amp is rated for 4v max low level input. So, now I have to decide exactly what I want to do about that little issue... (Just for the record, Crutchfield says it would still work, but the gain on the amp would have to be turned way down. Alpine says don't do it, because it is doubtful that the gain can be adjusted low enough, and, even if it can, damage to the amp would likely result at some point.)
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