2015 XLT - Sub install - not working
01-26-2017, 11:05 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
2015 XLT - Sub install - not working
Hey everyone,
I recently purchased a JL Audio 8" sub, unfortunately I meant to order the self powered one but didn't notice the part number was off by one letter so received the plain old sub. Instead of returning the sub and waiting another couple of weeks for it to arrive I went ahead and purchased an amp (KAC-5206) locally. It has a bridged connection for a sub and puts out enough power for the sub.
I've run all of the wiring and used the appropriate fuses etc. following another members detailed installation guide for tapping into the rear door speaker wires. The amp I purchased has a speaker line input with power on detection so no need to run a remote trigger.
So, here's the issue, the amp powers on but I'm not getting anything from the sub.
- I've tested the sub with a multi-meter and I've hooked it up using a AA battery to see if the sub will move. Everything appears to be fine on that end.
- The amp powers on/off appropriately when I turn the stereo on/off, so I'm assuming if the signal from the rear door speakers is working for purposes of the power sensor then it's clearly providing input signal to the amp as well.
- I've checked the amp's fuse, visually ok as well as tested with a multi-meter and no issues. The inline fuse by the battery is fine as well...
So my questions are as follows:
(1) If the amp is powering on using the signal sensing feature through the rear speaker taps is it safe to assume that it's receiving the signal correctly? My next step is to purchase a 3.5mm jack to RCA cable to try hooking up my phone directly to the amp and seeing if I get anything from the sub using the RCA inputs instead of the speaker inputs...but based on the sub appropriately powering on/off with the speaker inputs is it likely my issue is on the input side? In other words could the speaker input be just strong enough to turn on the amp but nothing more?
(2) If the amp output terminals are the issue is there any cost effective way to repair or do you just bite the bullet and replace?
(3) Anything else I should be looking at?
I recently purchased a JL Audio 8" sub, unfortunately I meant to order the self powered one but didn't notice the part number was off by one letter so received the plain old sub. Instead of returning the sub and waiting another couple of weeks for it to arrive I went ahead and purchased an amp (KAC-5206) locally. It has a bridged connection for a sub and puts out enough power for the sub.
I've run all of the wiring and used the appropriate fuses etc. following another members detailed installation guide for tapping into the rear door speaker wires. The amp I purchased has a speaker line input with power on detection so no need to run a remote trigger.
So, here's the issue, the amp powers on but I'm not getting anything from the sub.
- I've tested the sub with a multi-meter and I've hooked it up using a AA battery to see if the sub will move. Everything appears to be fine on that end.
- The amp powers on/off appropriately when I turn the stereo on/off, so I'm assuming if the signal from the rear door speakers is working for purposes of the power sensor then it's clearly providing input signal to the amp as well.
- I've checked the amp's fuse, visually ok as well as tested with a multi-meter and no issues. The inline fuse by the battery is fine as well...
So my questions are as follows:
(1) If the amp is powering on using the signal sensing feature through the rear speaker taps is it safe to assume that it's receiving the signal correctly? My next step is to purchase a 3.5mm jack to RCA cable to try hooking up my phone directly to the amp and seeing if I get anything from the sub using the RCA inputs instead of the speaker inputs...but based on the sub appropriately powering on/off with the speaker inputs is it likely my issue is on the input side? In other words could the speaker input be just strong enough to turn on the amp but nothing more?
(2) If the amp output terminals are the issue is there any cost effective way to repair or do you just bite the bullet and replace?
(3) Anything else I should be looking at?
01-26-2017, 03:08 PM
#2
is the amp new? I think you are on the right path. I would be doing the same thing with the 3.55 jack and testing. Only thing is, you can't have the rca's and the speaker inputs plugged into the amp at the same time, and I'm not sure if the signal sensing system picks up through the rca's as well, or that's just the speaker inputs.
01-26-2017, 03:21 PM
#3
Hey everyone,
I recently purchased a JL Audio 8" sub, unfortunately I meant to order the self powered one but didn't notice the part number was off by one letter so received the plain old sub. Instead of returning the sub and waiting another couple of weeks for it to arrive I went ahead and purchased an amp (KAC-5206) locally. It has a bridged connection for a sub and puts out enough power for the sub.
I've run all of the wiring and used the appropriate fuses etc. following another members detailed installation guide for tapping into the rear door speaker wires. The amp I purchased has a speaker line input with power on detection so no need to run a remote trigger.
So, here's the issue, the amp powers on but I'm not getting anything from the sub.
- I've tested the sub with a multi-meter and I've hooked it up using a AA battery to see if the sub will move. Everything appears to be fine on that end.
- The amp powers on/off appropriately when I turn the stereo on/off, so I'm assuming if the signal from the rear door speakers is working for purposes of the power sensor then it's clearly providing input signal to the amp as well.
- I've checked the amp's fuse, visually ok as well as tested with a multi-meter and no issues. The inline fuse by the battery is fine as well...
So my questions are as follows:
(1) If the amp is powering on using the signal sensing feature through the rear speaker taps is it safe to assume that it's receiving the signal correctly? My next step is to purchase a 3.5mm jack to RCA cable to try hooking up my phone directly to the amp and seeing if I get anything from the sub using the RCA inputs instead of the speaker inputs...but based on the sub appropriately powering on/off with the speaker inputs is it likely my issue is on the input side? In other words could the speaker input be just strong enough to turn on the amp but nothing more?
(2) If the amp output terminals are the issue is there any cost effective way to repair or do you just bite the bullet and replace?
(3) Anything else I should be looking at?
I recently purchased a JL Audio 8" sub, unfortunately I meant to order the self powered one but didn't notice the part number was off by one letter so received the plain old sub. Instead of returning the sub and waiting another couple of weeks for it to arrive I went ahead and purchased an amp (KAC-5206) locally. It has a bridged connection for a sub and puts out enough power for the sub.
I've run all of the wiring and used the appropriate fuses etc. following another members detailed installation guide for tapping into the rear door speaker wires. The amp I purchased has a speaker line input with power on detection so no need to run a remote trigger.
So, here's the issue, the amp powers on but I'm not getting anything from the sub.
- I've tested the sub with a multi-meter and I've hooked it up using a AA battery to see if the sub will move. Everything appears to be fine on that end.
- The amp powers on/off appropriately when I turn the stereo on/off, so I'm assuming if the signal from the rear door speakers is working for purposes of the power sensor then it's clearly providing input signal to the amp as well.
- I've checked the amp's fuse, visually ok as well as tested with a multi-meter and no issues. The inline fuse by the battery is fine as well...
So my questions are as follows:
(1) If the amp is powering on using the signal sensing feature through the rear speaker taps is it safe to assume that it's receiving the signal correctly? My next step is to purchase a 3.5mm jack to RCA cable to try hooking up my phone directly to the amp and seeing if I get anything from the sub using the RCA inputs instead of the speaker inputs...but based on the sub appropriately powering on/off with the speaker inputs is it likely my issue is on the input side? In other words could the speaker input be just strong enough to turn on the amp but nothing more?
(2) If the amp output terminals are the issue is there any cost effective way to repair or do you just bite the bullet and replace?
(3) Anything else I should be looking at?
Last edited by Wyo11Scab; 01-26-2017 at 03:24 PM.
01-26-2017, 06:05 PM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestions. I've read very carefully back through the thread which details the factory wires being tapped and everything checks out. Again, I would think if the amp turns on and off appropriately based on use of the stereo power it suggests the inputs are correct...although I guess in theory it could be another accessory which gains power when the vehicle is turned on. I'll try the multi-meter to that input to see if I can see the needle dance with the music turned on. If it's a steady current then perhaps I have tapped the wrong wires somehow.
Regarding the amp to sub wiring I've checked a few times to make sure as well. I have it coming from the bridged connection on the amp output but I tried a non-bridged version as well and still nothing.
My bet is a faulty amp...but a pain in the butt since it's brand new.
Regarding the amp to sub wiring I've checked a few times to make sure as well. I have it coming from the bridged connection on the amp output but I tried a non-bridged version as well and still nothing.
My bet is a faulty amp...but a pain in the butt since it's brand new.
01-26-2017, 08:10 PM
#5
Thanks for the suggestions. I've read very carefully back through the thread which details the factory wires being tapped and everything checks out. Again, I would think if the amp turns on and off appropriately based on use of the stereo power it suggests the inputs are correct...although I guess in theory it could be another accessory which gains power when the vehicle is turned on. I'll try the multi-meter to that input to see if I can see the needle dance with the music turned on. If it's a steady current then perhaps I have tapped the wrong wires somehow.
Regarding the amp to sub wiring I've checked a few times to make sure as well. I have it coming from the bridged connection on the amp output but I tried a non-bridged version as well and still nothing.
My bet is a faulty amp...but a pain in the butt since it's brand new.
Regarding the amp to sub wiring I've checked a few times to make sure as well. I have it coming from the bridged connection on the amp output but I tried a non-bridged version as well and still nothing.
My bet is a faulty amp...but a pain in the butt since it's brand new.
01-27-2017, 11:30 AM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Well, just to bring this to completion for anyone having similar issues...turns out it was my error and not the equipment.
I took a speaker from my home stereo setup out to the truck and tried connecting it to the wires that I tapped from the rear oem speakers to make sure the inputs were live. Couldn't hear anything....hmm. I opened up the B-pillar again to check and the wire taps were still in place and hadn't disconnected so I wasn't sure why there wasn't any signal.
Turns out the wire tap I was using hadn't appropriately pierced the casing of the stock wires. One of them had clipped it just enough to receive power for the signal sensing function but wasn't actually providing a good speaker signal. So...got rid of those stupid wire taps and used posi-locks to combine the wires and problem solved.
As for the JL sub - after all this trouble I was really expecting a "hit the chest" type of bass...but it's not, especially at 8". My amp puts out 150w bridged @ 4ohms so it's not stressing the sub which can accept from 50-250w. However, once I played with the settings, squared everything away and tried a few different songs I can say it has significantly improved the stock stereo. As another member noted it just fills in the missing gap in the stock sound where the low notes just weren't there in the past.
I took a speaker from my home stereo setup out to the truck and tried connecting it to the wires that I tapped from the rear oem speakers to make sure the inputs were live. Couldn't hear anything....hmm. I opened up the B-pillar again to check and the wire taps were still in place and hadn't disconnected so I wasn't sure why there wasn't any signal.
Turns out the wire tap I was using hadn't appropriately pierced the casing of the stock wires. One of them had clipped it just enough to receive power for the signal sensing function but wasn't actually providing a good speaker signal. So...got rid of those stupid wire taps and used posi-locks to combine the wires and problem solved.
As for the JL sub - after all this trouble I was really expecting a "hit the chest" type of bass...but it's not, especially at 8". My amp puts out 150w bridged @ 4ohms so it's not stressing the sub which can accept from 50-250w. However, once I played with the settings, squared everything away and tried a few different songs I can say it has significantly improved the stock stereo. As another member noted it just fills in the missing gap in the stock sound where the low notes just weren't there in the past.