Captainjml

Hello all,

In the planning stages and this forum has been a wealth of information. Thank you to everyone who participates with great information. I've spent hours reading through post after post. I intend to document every step and post once the upgrade starts. Might even cut some video into the upgrade build.

General expectation is to vastly improve SQ. I spend a lot of time in the truck and listen to a wide array of music. Improve overall tonality and imaging.

Oh yea and try not spend more than $1000 ... YIKES! Can I make it happen?

I'm thinking of starting with a FORSCAN to modify vehicle parameters. I'm on the fence but have read through many posts about the power of FORSCAN. I like the idea of changing the output signal from the HU to low level and tapping RCA's directly into the feed. Also the possibility to remove the factory baked EQ settings. Then take the feed to a DSP and 5 Channel Amp.

I't not much but it's a start.

I would appreciate feedback from anyone who has used a FORSCAN to modify the signal from the factory HU to a DPS and their experiences.

Factory non Sony 8" HU
PAC APH-FD01
DSP (undecided)
5 Channel Amp (undecided)
Front/Back speaker upgrade (undecided)
2-8" ID8's (already own)

Cheers

HushCarAudio

Do a search on my budget build....

Captainjml

I've been reading up on your build. If I'm reading it correctly you used the FORSCAN to change the factory HU to low power output, taped RCA's directly to the output. Did you also remove the factory EQ? If so did you do a before and after listen?

Cheers

HushCarAudio

Yes, you use forescan to change the signal to low-level output and flatten the eq. Before and after is a big difference.

Captainjml

Thank you for replying. Another question of you don't mind sir. Have you or anyone only removed the factory baked EQ with FORESCAN but left everything else? (understanding that the defeat of the factory EQ could damage factory speakers) I'm looking to build the system in stages. I have several components and will purchase some others.

Components I have:
2 - ID8's V.4 D4
Audio Control Lc2i
Circa 1990's - Hifonics Odin VII 150watt Amp. I've owned this amp since 1993, it's been in every install I've ever owned. Impossible to kill when cared for properly.

Stage 1
Factory HU driving door speakers
Line-level tap of signal (will tap and bypass for later multi amp install - I want to open the dash once, prepare the taps and wiring for future install stages.)
These components will be used temporarily until stage 2.Upgrade front's powered by HU (Focal ISS 690 is my current front runner for purchase)
Upgrade rears powered by HU (something "better" than stock but still undecided.
Sound deaden doors.

Stage 2
Add DSP
Add new 5 Channel or New Multi-AMP install.

Observations and recommendations are very welcome!

Thanks!

Cheers

TommyBoy2017

I have. Running the flat EQ config to my JBL club series speakers right now. (Components up front, coaxial in the rear) Getting ready to put in a sub and 5ch amp this weekend, time permitting. (I've got to put out about 450sq/ft of sod this weekend first)

Captainjml

have fun with the sod...

Understanding that likes/dislikes for audio is much like spiciness or how done is too well done for steaks, how would you compare the differences from the factory EQ to flat output.

TommyBoy2017

To me it sounds pretty much the same. The main reason I did it was to get full range to the rear speakers. It's my understanding they get clipped by the default EQ setting, thus not getting lower frequencies.

Captainjml

thanks, that's actually good news.

Cheers!

TommyBoy2017

Yeah, especially if your tapping the rear speakers for signal for your sub. I was initially going to do this, but I have since bought and installed a FOR-11MK1 adapter. Now I will just use some 9 conductor speed wire to connect the output of the factory radio to thur the harness, to the amp, back to the harness, to the speakers. This way I do not have to cut or tap any of the factory wiring.