Sharpgypsy

Yup, was wired right, it was just the ground after all. As soon as you replied to that, I knew my wiring was good, and connected the ground and looped the harness back in. Turn on the truck and get tons of static, I think "Oh mannnn I got noise!" Then realized it had switched to AM.

I had all the gains down on the LC6i, set the volume to 1/4 on the HU and turned them up to about 50%. Man... the difference is f'n amazing! I had to just sit there and listen for 20 minutes even though my bladder was screaming at me to go inside.

HPF set somewhere around 60-70Hz on the JL 300.4, I didn't notice my rear 6.5s over powering the 6x9s, but I did bump it forward 1 notch on the fader. I didn't bother disconnecting the tweeters or center, since I had to crank it to 75% volume to really hear anything anyhow. Now it's perfect around 1/4 volume.

You've not had any issues with the DQ-61 not switching off? I got out of the truck and noticed my amp light and the LC6i were still on, went back out and checked 5 min later and it was off. Don't see anything in the manual about timed shut-off on the signal sensing. Will keep an eye on it, don't want a dead batter.

Thanks man! Your thread is what brought this together for me!

1Chad

My dq-61 works the same way. I didn't time it, but it stays on for 2 minutes after shutoff give or take. That is actually a designed delay to prevent on of cycling when it doesn't see a signal to the speakers. It might even shut off if you mute for a few min, but not sure. I kept an eye on mine at first but it has been very consistent.

As for running the battery down, there is another failsafe if you powered the signal processor from the fused lead in the parrot harness as I did. Basically if you have the stereo on for without the truck running for a period of time, the truck will sense the the battery level, put a message on the display that it is shutting down, then seems to cut power to the radio circuit which includes the signal proc and susequently the amp via the turn on lead. It may work the same if you weren't intentionally listening to the stereo, but not certain.

Sharpgypsy

I did not, I just made a 2" 20G jumper wire from my battery lead input on the amp to the signal processor. So the only wires going from the front of the truck are the speed wires, and 1 4G battery lead. That's a pretty good idea though. I was really concerned as flat as the stereo sounded before the upgrade, that I would have to get a DQ-61 or something similar to tune it more. I was honestly flat out amazed how good/rich it sounded without. Odds are I'll still upgrade that portion, but for now it's 400x better.

You still happy with the Kicker Hideaway? That's what I was looking at before you posted the install of it.

matt1reinders

Is there my reason you didn't run the speed wire right thru the center console instead of down the drivers side like you did?

Sharpgypsy

I can't speak for Chad, but what little I tried to access was a lot of painful disassembly... getting to the door channels is easy peasy. I wanted to keep mine in the door channel, but I was short on speedwire.

Here were my photos to show a better view of the power cable feed... very hard to reach with fuse box attached.





Unbolted fusebox, made getting to the grommet hole easier.





Here's where it popped out once I jabbed a hole through the barrier.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

You see that big nipple on the large grommet next to the hole you made?
That is where most put there battery wire. Just cut the nipple and stick it thru.

1Chad

That would be the shortest route, and I spent some time trying to figure out how. After research and dismantling the first layers, I decided it was going to to be a lot of effort and I couldn't find clear instructions. At that point I chose to go through the door raceways.

If anyone successfully does take apart the 2015 center console, I'm sure a lot of people would appreciate a how to post and go that route for running the wires.

'15 Lariat

1 Chad you did a real fine job with you install guide.
I put you & southpaw as ACES on the stereo guide write-ups.

I am struggling with super-cab rear door panel removal, i've searched 'til frustration trying to find a you tube or even a write-up like yours for the super-cab..

Like i said 1Chad, GOOD JOB !!!!

urbanstylee

Awesome upgrades!!!

1Chad

I finally made it around to upgrade the front door speakers to Hertz 165XL components as well as install some additional soundproofing in the front doors a few weeks ago. The results were a dramatic improvement over what I already thought sounded really good. My findings are as follows:

• Front soundstage was significantly elevated and overall clarity is fantastic
• Mid range seems better controlled. Previously I noticed the midrange would get very pronounced as volume was increased. I'm not certain if this has more to do with these speakers or the added soundproofing and sealing off the doorsound the speaker
• Bass response from the door speakers is further improved which could also be due to the additional soundproofing. (The front speakers are high passed at 80Hz from the amp, everything lower goes to the sub)
• I am impressed with every type of music I play through the system now

Couple of other notes:
Front Door Speakers - Hertz 165XL
Soundproofing added to front door - RAAMmat BXT II Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick
Speaker adapter - Scosche SA69 Convertible 6x9-Inch Speaker Adapter (Requires some cutting of adapter to fit the speaker)

I originally planned to install the tweeters in the factory A-Pillar location which is off-axis (not pointing at your ears). After reading the Hertz recommendation for on-axis installation as well as some other information I chose to mount the tweeters in the top triangle of front doors next to the window. (pointing across the cab of the truck at the driver and passenger ears respectively) The mounting pods came with the tweeters. The benefits of this installation are:

• The crossover can be mounted on the door in a "nook" of the panel. (see picture)
• No speaker wires need to be spliced and split before they go to the door
• Door triangle pieces can easily and relatively cheaply be replaced if you decide to change. (Only damage to them are 2 small screw holes anyway.)
• The mounting position for the tweeters in the corner between the a-pillar and the dash is pleasing for both aesthetics and function.

See the pictures below and I hope it helps a few of you out. I'm a little partial at this point, but I would highly recommend this setup... I'm completely happy with the entire system, and do not have plans for any further changes.