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Just finished my complete audio upgrade. Here is a list of everything used to do the job. This is my first attempt at building a box and doing an install. I dont claim to be an expert and Im sure there are things I did that could have been done a better/easier way. Just sharing this to give ideas for those trying to do a similar setup. Any questions are welcome. Ill do my best to answer them. I did upgrade the door speakers as well, I can provide info on that if wanted.
There is a depression in the rear wall of the cab after the insulation cover is removed. I took advantage and built the rear wall of the sub box to fit into that depression and try to increase the box volume.
Raised the amp mounting surface and created a passage down the rear of the box in an attempt to increase box volume, not sure if it made any difference.
Two Kicker 40CWRT121 1 ohm DVC subs
Created a shelf to raise the 4 channel amp above the mono amp in order to fit both in the tight space.
Ran all wires under the dashboard cover directly below the steering wheel. It snaps right off and is easy to put back.
I used the 17' RCA cables to run from the parrot wiring harness to the rear of the truck and plug into the 4 channel amp. I used a 1.5' RCA cable to connect from 4 channel amp RCA outputs to the Mono Amp RCA inputs. Stinger 9 wire was used to run all 4 channels back to the front and connect back to wiring harness to bring signal to each door. The 9th wire in the stinger was used as a remote wire for the 4 channel amp. I ran a separate remote wire for the mono amp that is connected to the toggle switch.
Toggle switch from behind
Used a toggle switch to turn off the sub amp when my kids are in the truck. Glows blue when it is turned on.
It would only let me insert 10 images so im continuing in new port.
All speaker wires ran down the driver side away from power cables that were ran down the passenger side.
Used fuse taps and ran the wire from engine compartment down into cab along side the power cable. To driver side behind dashboard to provide remote wire to toggle switch and to the 9th stinger wire for 4 channel amp.
In line power cable fuse under hood.
Sub box behind rear seat. I took off the rear window motor and just raised it up, it still works great.
Shows how much space is between box and seats when seats are raised up.
Used 2 inch steel washers and 2.5 inch screws to extend rear seat back latches in order to still connect.
Used steel brackets to create extensions for rear seat bolts. Moved seats forward 2 inches.
Power cable enters through rubber gromet that I just removed. This was the hardest part of the whole installation.
Where the cable enters the cab under the passenger side dash. Used razor to cut away insulation. The blue/green cables are the remote wires going to the driver side to connect to the 9th stinger wire and toggle switch.
10-10-2016, 07:05 PM
2015 F150 SCREW audio upgrade
