2015+ compact amp size?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
2015+ compact amp size?
Hi all -
I've tried answering this question via search to no avail. I just completed a sub-woofer install using the forscan + wpt1212 harness. This has nicely improved the very lacking bottom end of my XLT 302A audio setup.
Now I would like to move on to getting some more go juice to the front and rear speakers than the pitiful head unit will provide. My current plan is to make use of a JBL GTO-504EZ that I have sitting around (50x4 RMS @ 4 Ohms, 14.4V DC, less than 1.0% THD, >85 dB S/N) along with the parrot harness to eliminate cutting the factory wiring.
However, I'm also considering the compact amp route which would eliminate the need for me to run the Amp power/ground/ speaker runs from the parrot/head unit to the JBL (which I was going to locate in the lower compartment as I have the 40/20/40 setup). This brings up the question of what compact amp(s) fit beneath the head unit?
I've seen a couple things mentioned, but it would be great if someone happened to know the dimensions and/or what units are known to fit. I'd guess it is also important that they don't run super hot given the location. For this go around, I'm using the factory door speakers, but might eventually replace them with something better, so I'd like to make sure I have adequate power if I do so.
Thanks for any help you can give.
I've tried answering this question via search to no avail. I just completed a sub-woofer install using the forscan + wpt1212 harness. This has nicely improved the very lacking bottom end of my XLT 302A audio setup.
Now I would like to move on to getting some more go juice to the front and rear speakers than the pitiful head unit will provide. My current plan is to make use of a JBL GTO-504EZ that I have sitting around (50x4 RMS @ 4 Ohms, 14.4V DC, less than 1.0% THD, >85 dB S/N) along with the parrot harness to eliminate cutting the factory wiring.
However, I'm also considering the compact amp route which would eliminate the need for me to run the Amp power/ground/ speaker runs from the parrot/head unit to the JBL (which I was going to locate in the lower compartment as I have the 40/20/40 setup). This brings up the question of what compact amp(s) fit beneath the head unit?
I've seen a couple things mentioned, but it would be great if someone happened to know the dimensions and/or what units are known to fit. I'd guess it is also important that they don't run super hot given the location. For this go around, I'm using the factory door speakers, but might eventually replace them with something better, so I'd like to make sure I have adequate power if I do so.
Thanks for any help you can give.
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
To partially answer my own post, here are some amp's I've seen mentioned in conjunction with the 2015/2016's:
Pioneer GM-D1004. 45x4 RMS @ 4 Ohms, < 0.05% (1 kHz), 75 dB S/N, class FD, 15 Amp fuse. Dimensions 7-1/8" x 1-1/2" x 2-1/2". Cheapest price new aprox. $91
Images of install (courtesy of Sport Mode's post): https://www.f150forum.com/f30/wire-h...0/#post4751559
Alpine KTP-445U: 45 Watts x 4 @ 4Ω/2Ω, 7-7/16” x 1-1/2” x 2-1/2”. < 0.03% THD+N @ 1W, 1% THD+N @ rated power. About $130.
Clarion XC1410: 7-1/8 (W) × 1-3/8 (H) × 2-3/4 (D), 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms, class D, fuse rating: 25A x 1. About $90.
NVX MVPA4: 50W x 4-Chan. @ 4 ohms (RMS), class D, 30A x 1 fuse,
KAC-M3004: RMS POWER Output 4Ω: 50W x 4, Dimensions(WxHxD): 6-1/2" x 1-3/4" x 3-7/8", class D, ≤1%THD+N, 76dBA (Reference: 1Watt into 4Ohms). About $120.
Pioneer GM-D1004. 45x4 RMS @ 4 Ohms, < 0.05% (1 kHz), 75 dB S/N, class FD, 15 Amp fuse. Dimensions 7-1/8" x 1-1/2" x 2-1/2". Cheapest price new aprox. $91
Images of install (courtesy of Sport Mode's post): https://www.f150forum.com/f30/wire-h...0/#post4751559
Alpine KTP-445U: 45 Watts x 4 @ 4Ω/2Ω, 7-7/16” x 1-1/2” x 2-1/2”. < 0.03% THD+N @ 1W, 1% THD+N @ rated power. About $130.
Clarion XC1410: 7-1/8 (W) × 1-3/8 (H) × 2-3/4 (D), 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms, class D, fuse rating: 25A x 1. About $90.
NVX MVPA4: 50W x 4-Chan. @ 4 ohms (RMS), class D, 30A x 1 fuse,
KAC-M3004: RMS POWER Output 4Ω: 50W x 4, Dimensions(WxHxD): 6-1/2" x 1-3/4" x 3-7/8", class D, ≤1%THD+N, 76dBA (Reference: 1Watt into 4Ohms). About $120.
Last edited by TooManyVehicles; 09-21-2016 at 05:22 PM. Reason: ETA Alpine, clarion, NVX, Kenwood
#3
I personally am not a big fan of amping factory speakers; a louder turd is still a turd. Even if you go super cheap & do a couple $50/pair sets, those amplified are going to sound a million times better than amp'd factory cones.
Regarding fit, I'm still in a '13, but judging by the pic you referenced of the Pioneer install, any that are that dimension (Pioneer, Alpine, Clarion) should fit fine.
Brand selection is going to be more about personal preference than anything else; I went with the Alpine in my truck because the only options when I bought were Alpine & Clarion, and there wasn't enough price difference to justify buying the 'cheaper' brand. With today's options, I'd probably opt for the Pioneer, for my purposes the LPF filter on the Pioneer makes it more versatile than the Alpine. Going by the listed specs, I would stay away from the NVX or Kenwood; both look like they'll require a separate power lead, which eliminates the biggest benefit (to me) of the inline amps.
Regarding fit, I'm still in a '13, but judging by the pic you referenced of the Pioneer install, any that are that dimension (Pioneer, Alpine, Clarion) should fit fine.
Brand selection is going to be more about personal preference than anything else; I went with the Alpine in my truck because the only options when I bought were Alpine & Clarion, and there wasn't enough price difference to justify buying the 'cheaper' brand. With today's options, I'd probably opt for the Pioneer, for my purposes the LPF filter on the Pioneer makes it more versatile than the Alpine. Going by the listed specs, I would stay away from the NVX or Kenwood; both look like they'll require a separate power lead, which eliminates the biggest benefit (to me) of the inline amps.
Last edited by ginnjuice; 09-22-2016 at 07:18 AM.
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Toddman38 (09-22-2016)
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I personally am not a big fan of amping factory speakers; a louder turd is still a turd. Even if you go super cheap & do a couple $50/pair sets, those amplified are going to sound a million times better than amp'd factory cones.
Regarding fit, I'm still in a '13, but judging by the pic you referenced of the Pioneer install, any that are that dimension (Pioneer, Alpine, Clarion) should fit fine.
Brand selection is going to be more about personal preference than anything else; I went with the Alpine in my truck because the only options when I bought were Alpine & Clarion, and there wasn't enough price difference to justify buying the 'cheaper' brand. With today's options, I'd probably opt for the Pioneer, for my purposes the LPF filter on the Pioneer makes it more versatile than the Alpine. Going by the listed specs, I would stay away from the NVX or Kenwood; both look like they'll require a separate power lead, which eliminates the biggest benefit (to me) of the inline amps.
Regarding fit, I'm still in a '13, but judging by the pic you referenced of the Pioneer install, any that are that dimension (Pioneer, Alpine, Clarion) should fit fine.
Brand selection is going to be more about personal preference than anything else; I went with the Alpine in my truck because the only options when I bought were Alpine & Clarion, and there wasn't enough price difference to justify buying the 'cheaper' brand. With today's options, I'd probably opt for the Pioneer, for my purposes the LPF filter on the Pioneer makes it more versatile than the Alpine. Going by the listed specs, I would stay away from the NVX or Kenwood; both look like they'll require a separate power lead, which eliminates the biggest benefit (to me) of the inline amps.
I was leaning towards the Kenwood, based on this dyno test:
#5
Senior Member
I have the pioneer in my 2012 stx. Its running off the stock radio and for now I mounted it in the glove box. Some reviews say it can get hot so I wanted to keep and eye on it. Its pushing 4 rockford punch p1683's and while it does get warm I can put my hand on it and not get burnt. They say you can just tap into the 12v wire going to the radio but I ran a fused 12v from the battery to play it safe. The 12v wire added maybe 15 mins to the install but for piece of mind it was worth it plus its not like it needs 4 gauge wire. I had an old harness for a led light bar and used the power lead from that.
Last edited by jay_g; 09-22-2016 at 08:54 AM.
#6
Senior Member
I am running the NVX on my Harley. It is mounted on top of the radio receiver, wedged in the closed fairing. It will sit in the hot Texas sun all day and has never given me any issues. No idea on how hot it is, but almost anywhere you would put it inside your truck would be guaranteed to be cooler than where I have mine.