Hello, this is my first post on the f-150 forum as the owner of a 2018 F-150 XLT 5.0 Supercrew Non-B&O / Sony, and rookie car audio installer. Just wanted to share this post on the troubles I had during my aftermarket install because I was having trouble finding information on the topic.

I recently got a great deal on a JL Audio Stealthbox 13 inch subwoofer, buying with the intent to upgrade the factory Kicker subwoofer I had installed previously, the one that tucks behind the rear seats. After the install I was pleased with the results, but felt I was not getting everything I was expecting. I helped my friend install budget 2x10 MTX subwoofers in his focus and he was getting much fuller, well rounded bass. Also, they hit the super low notes in a satisfying manner, unlike the Stealthbox. It just sounded bad on most songs.

At first, I thought this was an issue with bass roll off or eq settings on the factory radio. I purchased a Kicker KeyLOC which I haven't installed yet, hoping that would solve my issues.

After some more research and thinking about it, I forgot about having the option to enable/disable the factory subwoofer. After hunting on f-150 forums and Reddit, I was unable to find any information on whether enabling/disabling the factory subwoofer affected the speaker outputs to the front and rear speakers, in turn providing the subwoofer a weak signal. Due to this, I decided to find out myself and bought a FORscan tool off of Amazon.

Well I have news for you, it DOES! DISABLING THE FACTORY SUBWOOFTER IN FORSCAN AFTER REMOVING IT AND INSTALLING THE AFTERMARKET SUBWOOFER / AMP completely gave me what I was looking for. I am now hitting the low notes, getting way better soundstage and "warmer" sound, and getting full bass on every song. it sounds phenomenal.

To sum up my experience: If you have a non-b&o F-150 that HAD the factory Kicker and installed a new, aftermarket sub and amp that connects to the front speaker output, DEFINITELY disable the factory one in forscan. Leaving it enabled definitely affects the front and rear speaker output, which is good for the kicker, but definitely not for aftermarket!

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions from me!



EDIT: I ended up throwing the Kicker KeyLOC in after all. I am noticing a huge difference in subwoofer volume and clarity. If you're grabbing the subwoofer signal from the front speakers behind the dash, I would highly recommend the Kicker KeyLOC. It was the final piece to getting the sound I want out of my sub. I was getting the notes I wanted with the passive Metra LOC I was using before, but the clarity, volume, and accuracy the KeyLOC is providing knocks it out of the park.

 

I imagine this would also apply if you use the wpt 1212 harness to add a factory amp/sub?

 

I noticed that when I turned on the factory plug to use it for my subwoofer/ amp install, the bass from the door speaker disappeared.
I see this a good thing...........it now protects the 6.5" speakers from being damaged by excessive bass.

I would say use the stock subwoofer wire for your signal and turn on lead for your amp.............much easier and better overall results.

 

that just means you need to upgrade the door speakers!

 

Already done

 

Yes. If I had to go back and do the install again, this is what I would've done. At the time I was not aware of the WPT 1212 Harness method.

I ended up throwing the Kicker KeyLOC in after all. I am noticing a huge difference in subwoofer volume and clarity. If you're grabbing the subwoofer signal from the front speakers behind the dash, I would highly recommend the Kicker KeyLOC. It was the final piece to getting the sound I want out of my sub.

I wonder how the method I went with compares with using the factory subwoofer input.

 

It means that a crossover was applied to the door speakers when the sub was activated

 

Nah, I was saying that if the reduction in strength was giving him comfort- he needed to upgrade his speakers to handle the slight increase in volume.

 

Nah,Nah He stated that the bass was gone from the door speakers when he activated the sub. That is because a crossover was applied to the door speakers to send the bass to the sub