2015 Amplifier remote wire
#1
Member
Thread Starter
2015 Amplifier remote wire
Hey guys, I’ve been searching for some time on this site and in my truck for a source that will work for my remote trigger for my subwoofer amplifier.
On my 2013 I used a add a fuse from the passenger side kick panel and had no issues with that working for me. But I’m finding that the voltage in the kick panel is either too low to trigger the amp or the “free” fuse slots aren’t working.
Any help would be appreciated
On my 2013 I used a add a fuse from the passenger side kick panel and had no issues with that working for me. But I’m finding that the voltage in the kick panel is either too low to trigger the amp or the “free” fuse slots aren’t working.
Any help would be appreciated
#2
(TIM) Retired Army 1SG
What are you using for signal, did you tap into your rear speaker leads to go to the amp. If so, just use a cheap PAC or Scosche LOC with bass level controller, about $15-25. Walmart has the Scosche. Both come with a remote trigger.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
I used the outputs from the factory sub, and a line out converter
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks I’ll take a look at that. I have the power converter with two regular power outlets that I could probably use. Was just hoping to not cut/tap any wires
#6
Dazed and Confused
Are you sure there isn't a switched fuse you can use? Use add-a-circuit for your remote wire. Your manual has the fuse box diagram which are switched. Use a multimeter to test the voltage.
#7
the fords use a different type of add a circuit that's not in the box stores. i ordered one from amazon. needs to be a bp/hhtr-rp bussmann.
I taped into fuse #20 (in the passenger foot well) but like tallyman said, use a multimeter to confirm.
I taped into fuse #20 (in the passenger foot well) but like tallyman said, use a multimeter to confirm.
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#8
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What do u mean by a different type of add a circuit?
#9
Member
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I looked at the manual and tried every empty fuse space and then Tried other fuses that were already in use.