2013 amp install - No cutting of factory harness
07-25-2014, 01:41 PM
#81
Senior Member
You only had to go to the top of the current page to see what he was using it for. You could also use it for your purpose. Have a nice day.
Here it is:
This is the amp I will be using Amazon.com : Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics Amazon.com : Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics
Bought it almost a year ago, 11 months it's been sitting patiently waiting until this connector snafu was over and that time has finally come.
I chose that amp for 4 reasons, it's small enough to mount inside the dash out of sight and has enough power for the DB561 Polk Audio speakers I installed, and is also a well known quality brand at a damn good price.
I'm done with you. Enjoy having the last word when you reply to this. That's what you really want anyway isn't it?
07-25-2014, 03:04 PM
#82
Member
A Third Way
Another way to go is to tap off of existing Wires w/o cutting anything. I do this for Audio/Lighting/Trailer configs.
With a new, sharp Razor Knife, a few inches back from any Connector, I cut away the Insulation without harming the Wire proper. 2 circles ~1/2" apart. Cut a slit between them, and peel off the Insulation. Wrap new, stripped, insulated Wire around the newly-exposed OEM Wire. I only Solder connections in anything moving. After Soldering, wrap good Tape around it for Insulation. The new Wire can go off to the new connection[s]. Insulate any exposed Pins in the OEM Factory Connector and leave it be.
Come time to sell the Vehicle, un-tape and cut away - right at the nub - any Wire you added. Re-wrap that Soldered area with new Tape. Plug back in OEM Factory Equipment.
With a new, sharp Razor Knife, a few inches back from any Connector, I cut away the Insulation without harming the Wire proper. 2 circles ~1/2" apart. Cut a slit between them, and peel off the Insulation. Wrap new, stripped, insulated Wire around the newly-exposed OEM Wire. I only Solder connections in anything moving. After Soldering, wrap good Tape around it for Insulation. The new Wire can go off to the new connection[s]. Insulate any exposed Pins in the OEM Factory Connector and leave it be.
Come time to sell the Vehicle, un-tape and cut away - right at the nub - any Wire you added. Re-wrap that Soldered area with new Tape. Plug back in OEM Factory Equipment.
07-25-2014, 04:48 PM
#83
Another way to go is to tap off of existing Wires w/o cutting anything. I do this for Audio/Lighting/Trailer configs.
With a new, sharp Razor Knife, a few inches back from any Connector, I cut away the Insulation without harming the Wire proper. 2 circles ~1/2" apart. Cut a slit between them, and peel off the Insulation. Wrap new, stripped, insulated Wire around the newly-exposed OEM Wire. I only Solder connections in anything moving. After Soldering, wrap good Tape around it for Insulation. The new Wire can go off to the new connection[s]. Insulate any exposed Pins in the OEM Factory Connector and leave it be.
Come time to sell the Vehicle, un-tape and cut away - right at the nub - any Wire you added. Re-wrap that Soldered area with new Tape. Plug back in OEM Factory Equipment.
With a new, sharp Razor Knife, a few inches back from any Connector, I cut away the Insulation without harming the Wire proper. 2 circles ~1/2" apart. Cut a slit between them, and peel off the Insulation. Wrap new, stripped, insulated Wire around the newly-exposed OEM Wire. I only Solder connections in anything moving. After Soldering, wrap good Tape around it for Insulation. The new Wire can go off to the new connection[s]. Insulate any exposed Pins in the OEM Factory Connector and leave it be.
Come time to sell the Vehicle, un-tape and cut away - right at the nub - any Wire you added. Re-wrap that Soldered area with new Tape. Plug back in OEM Factory Equipment.
The whole point of this jumper harness is so you do not have to molest the wires in any way, no cutting, no skinning the insulation nothing. When the time comes and you want to revert back to oem just unplug the jumper harness and plug the factory harness back in, all the soldering is done on the amp and jumper harness wires.
No one would ever know any one had been in there just incase a warranty issue should arise as well as it's a whole lot easier soldering wires on a bench than inside the vehicle.
.
07-25-2014, 04:50 PM
#84
Why do I get the sense that you're one of those people that likes to have the last word? Again, he didn't say that this (the idea of having the "jumper" between factory harness and radio) is ONLY for door speakers. What was the point of your post? To point out my wrong assumption that I had already admitted to? Congratulations. You can read. I apparently can't.
I'm done with you. Enjoy having the last word when you reply to this. That's what you really want anyway isn't it?
I'm done with you. Enjoy having the last word when you reply to this. That's what you really want anyway isn't it?
07-25-2014, 04:52 PM
#85
The whole point of this jumper harness is so you do not have to molest the wires in any way, no cutting, no skinning the insulation nothing. When the time comes and you want to revert back to oem just unplug the jumper harness and plug the factory harness back in, all the soldering is done on the amp and jumper harness wires.
No one would ever know any one had been in there just incase a warranty issue should arise as well as it's a whole lot easier soldering wires on a bench than inside the vehicle.
.
No one would ever know any one had been in there just incase a warranty issue should arise as well as it's a whole lot easier soldering wires on a bench than inside the vehicle.
.
08-01-2014, 12:16 AM
#86
Another way to go is to tap off of existing Wires w/o cutting anything. I do this for Audio/Lighting/Trailer configs.
With a new, sharp Razor Knife, a few inches back from any Connector, I cut away the Insulation without harming the Wire proper. 2 circles ~1/2" apart. Cut a slit between them, and peel off the Insulation. Wrap new, stripped, insulated Wire around the newly-exposed OEM Wire. I only Solder connections in anything moving. After Soldering, wrap good Tape around it for Insulation. The new Wire can go off to the new connection[s]. Insulate any exposed Pins in the OEM Factory Connector and leave it be.
Come time to sell the Vehicle, un-tape and cut away - right at the nub - any Wire you added. Re-wrap that Soldered area with new Tape. Plug back in OEM Factory Equipment.
With a new, sharp Razor Knife, a few inches back from any Connector, I cut away the Insulation without harming the Wire proper. 2 circles ~1/2" apart. Cut a slit between them, and peel off the Insulation. Wrap new, stripped, insulated Wire around the newly-exposed OEM Wire. I only Solder connections in anything moving. After Soldering, wrap good Tape around it for Insulation. The new Wire can go off to the new connection[s]. Insulate any exposed Pins in the OEM Factory Connector and leave it be.
Come time to sell the Vehicle, un-tape and cut away - right at the nub - any Wire you added. Re-wrap that Soldered area with new Tape. Plug back in OEM Factory Equipment.
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Engineer Guy (08-01-2014)
08-01-2014, 12:54 AM
#87
Member
Options
Thanks. Understood. I've used various methods over the Decades.
In Telematics in Europe on early Hands-Free Systems I helped integrate, Scosche and other Plug/Play Harnesses were preferred; especially as time savers. Harnesses mature as the Model Years roll out. Plug/Play is great. Except when it isn't. Been there. Dealt with that. Vehicle Manufacturers aren't necessarily helpful to Aftermarket needs.
Throughout Threads here, some Configs aren't working for the want of a couple of connections being adapted using whatever method one prefers. I understand the reluctance when Aftermarket Installers lop off Factory Connectors. So, I was suggesting 'A Third Way'. Keep the OEM Connector and go with something permanent that doesn't crackle or become problematic, as some report here. An old Engineering Axiom is that every additional connection represents a possible additional failure. Warranty concerns; Leasing or not; and expected time of owning the Vehicle all come into play.
Clearly, this is a good and overdue Thread.
There's several ways to skin this Cat when Customizing, depending on what a Person is comfortable doing. Especially for Off Road use, I go for max reliability when Customizing.
In Telematics in Europe on early Hands-Free Systems I helped integrate, Scosche and other Plug/Play Harnesses were preferred; especially as time savers. Harnesses mature as the Model Years roll out. Plug/Play is great. Except when it isn't. Been there. Dealt with that. Vehicle Manufacturers aren't necessarily helpful to Aftermarket needs.
Throughout Threads here, some Configs aren't working for the want of a couple of connections being adapted using whatever method one prefers. I understand the reluctance when Aftermarket Installers lop off Factory Connectors. So, I was suggesting 'A Third Way'. Keep the OEM Connector and go with something permanent that doesn't crackle or become problematic, as some report here. An old Engineering Axiom is that every additional connection represents a possible additional failure. Warranty concerns; Leasing or not; and expected time of owning the Vehicle all come into play.
Clearly, this is a good and overdue Thread.
There's several ways to skin this Cat when Customizing, depending on what a Person is comfortable doing. Especially for Off Road use, I go for max reliability when Customizing.
Last edited by Engineer Guy; 08-01-2014 at 12:56 AM.
08-01-2014, 06:51 AM
#88
Another way to go is to tap off of existing Wires w/o cutting anything. I do this for Audio/Lighting/Trailer configs.
With a new, sharp Razor Knife, a few inches back from any Connector, I cut away the Insulation without harming the Wire proper. 2 circles ~1/2" apart. Cut a slit between them, and peel off the Insulation. Wrap new, stripped, insulated Wire around the newly-exposed OEM Wire. I only Solder connections in anything moving. After Soldering, wrap good Tape around it for Insulation. The new Wire can go off to the new connection[s]. Insulate any exposed Pins in the OEM Factory Connector and leave it be.
Come time to sell the Vehicle, un-tape and cut away - right at the nub - any Wire you added. Re-wrap that Soldered area with new Tape. Plug back in OEM Factory Equipment.
With a new, sharp Razor Knife, a few inches back from any Connector, I cut away the Insulation without harming the Wire proper. 2 circles ~1/2" apart. Cut a slit between them, and peel off the Insulation. Wrap new, stripped, insulated Wire around the newly-exposed OEM Wire. I only Solder connections in anything moving. After Soldering, wrap good Tape around it for Insulation. The new Wire can go off to the new connection[s]. Insulate any exposed Pins in the OEM Factory Connector and leave it be.
Come time to sell the Vehicle, un-tape and cut away - right at the nub - any Wire you added. Re-wrap that Soldered area with new Tape. Plug back in OEM Factory Equipment.
08-01-2014, 10:35 AM
#89
Senior Member
But if you are tapping you would have to run new speaker wire correct? The other point of doing it the way people in this thread are trying to, other than not cutting factory wire, is not having to run any wire either. At least that was my plan - locate the amp inline with the harness.
Just put my infinity 6829cf's in. Crystal clear, but you can tell this stock HU runs out of juice for them fast. A harness solution can't come soon enough!
Just put my infinity 6829cf's in. Crystal clear, but you can tell this stock HU runs out of juice for them fast. A harness solution can't come soon enough!
08-02-2014, 11:13 AM
#90
I would love to see a photo of the final product once it has been completed. Maybe even with the amp in place. The whole set up is exactly what I wanted to do. i.e. small but effective amp, aftermarket speakers, perhaps even a smallish sub under the seat.
