2013 amp install - No cutting of factory harness
07-18-2014, 01:28 AM
#71
This is the amp I will be using
Bought it almost a year ago, 11 months it's been sitting patiently waiting until this connector snafu was over and that time has finally come.
I chose that amp for 4 reasons, it's small enough to mount inside the dash out of sight and has enough power for the DB561 Polk Audio speakers I installed, and is also a well known quality brand at a damn good price.
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Bought it almost a year ago, 11 months it's been sitting patiently waiting until this connector snafu was over and that time has finally come.
I chose that amp for 4 reasons, it's small enough to mount inside the dash out of sight and has enough power for the DB561 Polk Audio speakers I installed, and is also a well known quality brand at a damn good price.
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07-18-2014, 03:35 AM
#72
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This is the amp I will be using Amazon.com : Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics
Bought it almost a year ago, 11 months it's been sitting patiently waiting until this connector snafu was over and that time has finally come.
I chose that amp for 4 reasons, it's small enough to mount inside the dash out of sight and has enough power for the DB561 Polk Audio speakers I installed, and is also a well known quality brand at a damn good price.
.
Bought it almost a year ago, 11 months it's been sitting patiently waiting until this connector snafu was over and that time has finally come.
I chose that amp for 4 reasons, it's small enough to mount inside the dash out of sight and has enough power for the DB561 Polk Audio speakers I installed, and is also a well known quality brand at a damn good price.
.
Last edited by Curesti; 07-18-2014 at 03:38 AM.
07-18-2014, 09:16 AM
#73
Precisely, my days of 500w thunder are over replaced by tinnitus so I just wanted something to boost the stock a little bit, to push it just enough to enhance the sound that's already there while still being able to safely use oem wiring.
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07-23-2014, 12:15 AM
#74
Looking at schematics depending if Premium Audio or not there are either 3 non-speaker pins used or 6 non-speaker pins used.
For Premium audio - Pins 1 - Batt, 13 -Gnd and 15 - Start. Or for base audio 1 - Batt, 2 - Del/Acc, 3 - Illum(+), 4 - Illum(-), 13 - Gnd and 15 -Start. All these pins are shown on plug C290A of both schematics.
Also looks like speaker wire labeling for the Metra connector does not appear to match schematic for pin assignment on connector C290A.
I don't have great faith in the schematics I have found online so I am going to sign up for Motorcraft Service for a month to get the prints I need for this audio overhaul.
Last edited by mgp777; 07-23-2014 at 06:38 AM.
07-25-2014, 01:00 AM
#75
It would be easier to just tap the existing speaker wires and adding a high to low converter for your sub signals. If you want to replace the factory HU and plug it into the existing factory harness then something from this page will work. The harnesses you have listed are for a Ford Fiesta. .
http://www.carid.com/2013-ford-f-150...-installation/
http://www.carid.com/2013-ford-f-150...-installation/
07-25-2014, 01:31 AM
#76
Senior Member
Yes just as is said above. Tap into the existing speaker wire. Works flawless in my 2013 F150. I did this for my subs and 1600 watt amp. Bangs hard and sound freaking amazing. Don't sweat the cutting of wires. Mine was a professional install by Miami Pro Audio in Florida.
07-25-2014, 12:38 PM
#78
Senior Member
I'm planning to do this very thing when the time is right and pass the signals through a processor that will have enough outputs to dedicate one to subs. In that case I won't be cutting any wires. I guess I assumed that everyone else had the same idea and that was wrong of me.
07-25-2014, 01:03 PM
#79
The OP, nor anyone else for that matter, specified that this was only for door speakers. At least I don't remember any such specification and I'm not reading 8 pages again to find out.
I'm planning to do this very thing when the time is right and pass the signals through a processor that will have enough outputs to dedicate one to subs. In that case I won't be cutting any wires. I guess I assumed that everyone else had the same idea and that was wrong of me.
I'm planning to do this very thing when the time is right and pass the signals through a processor that will have enough outputs to dedicate one to subs. In that case I won't be cutting any wires. I guess I assumed that everyone else had the same idea and that was wrong of me.
Here it is:
This is the amp I will be using Amazon.com : Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics Amazon.com : Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics
Bought it almost a year ago, 11 months it's been sitting patiently waiting until this connector snafu was over and that time has finally come.
I chose that amp for 4 reasons, it's small enough to mount inside the dash out of sight and has enough power for the DB561 Polk Audio speakers I installed, and is also a well known quality brand at a damn good price.
07-25-2014, 01:18 PM
#80
Yes this is for an inline amp to power the 4 door speakers without cutting the factory harness, been so damned busy lately with other projects I haven't had a chance to get anything done on this yet but I will. Honey do list is getting shorter now all I need is for mother nature to cooperate when I'm not busy.
Who said staycations were relaxing?
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Who said staycations were relaxing?
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