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2013 amp install - No cutting of factory harness

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Old 08-18-2014, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by LastResort
There probably aren't that many who have done it all, at least in comparison to those using the standard plus. And someone probably has, by building their own harness. If you were super ambitious, you might be able to take the plugs out the amp, find a manufacturer and part number on them, and see if you can get some samples. Or you could find a yard with right rig, and get them to hack off the OEM harness for you.

Those would be my paths.
yea i agree, i just want a plug to bypass the sony out and it letting me leave the sync on the center channel and powering the other speakers. But thinking about it now the tweeters are on there own seperate wires and the door speakers are as well....dam its getting more trouble than its worth!
Old 08-20-2014, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyo11Scab
Ok this works. There is a brief clip there showing the screws in the glove box area. Looks like they've posted some pretty decent pdf instructions at the product page:
http://metraonline.com/part/99-5830B
http://metraonline.com/files/product...-5830B_web.pdf

I'm finding the mix between SAE and metric screws to be humorous. Both our previous daily drivers were all metric (01 mazda and 02 toyota) while my 40 year old mustang is obviously all standard. Is this a common thing on domestic vehicles nowadays?
Old 08-21-2014, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by BStrummin
Ok this works. There is a brief clip there showing the screws in the glove box area. Looks like they've posted some pretty decent pdf instructions at the product page:
http://metraonline.com/part/99-5830B
http://metraonline.com/files/product...-5830B_web.pdf

I'm finding the mix between SAE and metric screws to be humorous. Both our previous daily drivers were all metric (01 mazda and 02 toyota) while my 40 year old mustang is obviously all standard. Is this a common thing on domestic vehicles nowadays?


yes but usually it is the engine and body that are different
Old 08-27-2014, 01:31 PM
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Thanks to all that have put the effort into this thread, kinda surprised that it has went quiet this fast....just confirming what's needed (I've got a '13 XLT w/ 4.2).

2x 70-5524
1x 71-5524
1x Inline amp of choice

and... that's it?

It's confirmed that the 2nd 70-5524 is needed for the extra pins to populate the first?

Thanks in advance for any answers/guidance!
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ginnjuice
Thanks to all that have put the effort into this thread, kinda surprised that it has went quiet this fast....just confirming what's needed (I've got a '13 XLT w/ 4.2).

2x 70-5524
1x 71-5524
1x Inline amp of choice

and... that's it?

It's confirmed that the 2nd 70-5524 is needed for the extra pins to populate the first?

Thanks in advance for any answers/guidance!

Yes that is correct. In my case I only needed one pin to transfer. All factory sync options still work fine.

The only issue I am having now is I am getting the speaker pop when the amp turns off. I did not run the inline amp. I mounted a 5 channel behind the back seat. I contacted Alpine on the issue and they recommended running a separate remote wire as I am using speaker level inputs with the auto turn on feature on the alpine MRX-V70 amp. I havent figured out where to run the remote wire as of yet. If anyone has a solution, please post. I dont believe there is a wire on the back of the head unit to tap into that will work.
Old 08-27-2014, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bwhf150
Yes that is correct. In my case I only needed one pin to transfer. All factory sync options still work fine.

The only issue I am having now is I am getting the speaker pop when the amp turns off. I did not run the inline amp. I mounted a 5 channel behind the back seat. I contacted Alpine on the issue and they recommended running a separate remote wire as I am using speaker level inputs with the auto turn on feature on the alpine MRX-V70 amp. I havent figured out where to run the remote wire as of yet. If anyone has a solution, please post. I dont believe there is a wire on the back of the head unit to tap into that will work.
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bwhf150
Yes that is correct. In my case I only needed one pin to transfer. All factory sync options still work fine.

The only issue I am having now is I am getting the speaker pop when the amp turns off. I did not run the inline amp. I mounted a 5 channel behind the back seat. I contacted Alpine on the issue and they recommended running a separate remote wire as I am using speaker level inputs with the auto turn on feature on the alpine MRX-V70 amp. I havent figured out where to run the remote wire as of yet. If anyone has a solution, please post. I dont believe there is a wire on the back of the head unit to tap into that will work.
Thanks again for your input. My harnesses & amp are both in now, so I just want to confirm before I start soldering.

I've done installs before, but, always with aftermarket head units. I know the premise is the same, but I just want to make sure my thinking is right before I get started.

I haven't had my dash apart yet to look at the OEM harness, but, I am wondering, what pin did you have to transfer to your 70-5524?

Also, both the 70-5524 & 71-5524 came with 2 harness connectors, I'm also assuming that we only need the main connector with power & speakers, not the secondary harness that has what looks like extra speaker & perhaps some phone control wires?

See my diagram that I've thought out. I believe I've got it covered, with the exception being that transferred pin. I do not have power antenna, and I see that's a default pin on 70-5524.

Thanks again for input. Once I get this hashed out, I plan to take step-by-step pics of the wiring/install, for future reference for anyone else.



Last edited by ginnjuice; 09-05-2014 at 01:41 PM.
Old 09-05-2014, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ginnjuice
Thanks again for your input. My harnesses & amp are both in now, so I just want to confirm before I start soldering.

I've done installs before, but, always with aftermarket head units. I know the premise is the same, but I just want to make sure my thinking is right before I get started.

I haven't had my dash apart yet to look at the OEM harness, but, I am wondering, what pin did you have to transfer to your 70-5524?

Also, both the 70-5524 & 71-5524 came with 2 harness connectors, I'm also assuming that we only need the main connector with power & speakers, not the secondary harness that has what looks like extra speaker & perhaps some phone control wires?

See my diagram that I've thought out. I believe I've got it covered, with the exception being that transferred pin. I do not have power antenna, and I see that's a default pin on 70-5524.

Thanks again for input. Once I get this hashed out, I plan to take step-by-step pics of the wiring/install, for future reference for anyone else.


Here are the pins needed for 70-5524/71-5524

LF+ = Pin 22 - WT
LF- = Pin 10 - WT/BK
RF+ = Pin 23 - GY
RF- = Pin 11 - GY/BK

LR+ = Pin 21 - GN
LR- = Pin 9 - GN/BK
RR+ = Pin 24 - VT
RR- = Pin 12 - VT/BLK
____________________

Batt = Pin 1
Start = Pin 3
ICAN+ = Pin 14
ICAN- = Pin 15
Gnd = Pin 13
Old 09-05-2014, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mgp777
Here are the pins needed for 70-5524/71-5524

LF+ = Pin 22 - WT
LF- = Pin 10 - WT/BK
RF+ = Pin 23 - GY
RF- = Pin 11 - GY/BK

LR+ = Pin 21 - GN
LR- = Pin 9 - GN/BK
RR+ = Pin 24 - VT
RR- = Pin 12 - VT/BLK
____________________

Batt = Pin 1
Start = Pin 3
ICAN+ = Pin 14
ICAN- = Pin 15
Gnd = Pin 13

Thanks for this. I realized my masterpiece of a diagram was missing +12V switched, that' a given though. The 70-5524 come prepopulated with that wire @ Pin 7, I guess I need to move it to pin 3(currently unpopulated)?

Any recommendations on how to relocate pins without a release tool? Just jam a paperclip in the release slot & wiggle it around?

Thanks again!
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ginnjuice
Thanks for this. I realized my masterpiece of a diagram was missing +12V switched, that' a given though. The 70-5524 come prepopulated with that wire @ Pin 7, I guess I need to move it to pin 3(currently unpopulated)?

Any recommendations on how to relocate pins without a release tool? Just jam a paperclip in the release slot & wiggle it around?

Thanks again!
Anything that you can fit into the slot will work. I used a dental pick.


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