lambie327

Hello everyone,

I have been all over this forum and found 99% of what I need for the pin out of the Sony amp under the center console. I have been trying to diagnose some issues of a previous installer. I see that all the audio out is coming from the middle connector, which I can find the pin out for (except for the rear tweeters) but what seems to keep alluding me is the pinout for the other 2 connectors. There is a grey one and a blue one.

Thanks in advance!

jdunk54nl

Posted this in the forscan thread as well.

Here is what I would do, take only the front right/left and rear right/left signals. Cut the sub output wires out of the loop and just use the lc7i to sum the channels and output to the sub amp via the main outputs. Then set the low pass filters with the sub amp. Also, if you are taping the wires after the sony amp, don't do the forscan low level changes, just set the EQ to flat. If you tap before the sony amp via that link I sent you, do the low level changes.

lambie327

Interesting theory... If the Sony Amp is an active crossover, than I wouldn't be getting anything below 350hz in my "full signal". From my understanding Sony Amp has 8 outputs and they are as follows:

Front Left Tweeter (highs only) +/-
Front Right Tweeter (highs only) +/-
Front Left Speaker (mids only) +/-
Front Right Speaker (mids only) +/-
Rear Left Speaker (mids only) +/-
Rear Right Speaker (mids only) +/-
Sub DVC Output 1 (lows only) +/-
Sub DVC Output 2 (lows only) +/-

So, if I were to sum only the Front and Rears, I would not be getting a full range signal. I just tested by summing the Highs Mids and Lows all to the main outputs then into my 4channel amp to run the speakers and out of that into my sub amp. .75 seconds after the system kicks on the 4ch amp goes into Protect. If I lower the LC7i to 0 on all gains, it will work. But at a whisper, the moment I touch any of the gains, back into protect. Amp is cooler than the ambient temperature here in Central Florida.

If no one has any solid solutions that don't go against the basics of audio, would love to hear those. Or, the address of where the original installer lives will suffice! lol

Where is that Ford Service Tech that posts on here? Why is everything car audio completely backwards way more difficult than my 400,000 watt line array? Take something so simple and screw it all up...

About to go buy an oscilloscope and prove all this non-sense on this forum regarding this particular model here incorrect. Highly frustrating when everyone constantly offers incorrect advice. Is there seriously not 1 person with the Sony system in a 2012 Harley Davidson (crap, any 2012 at this point) that has successfully installed a system that does not melt the tweeters and does not produce a godawful hum in the system because y our just crushing the noise floor by adding amplification on amplification?!?! Even PAC Audio AP4-FD11 has the same issue.

jdunk54nl

Before you made any forscan changes, you still had this issue correct?
There are quite a few posts of people just taping the rear door speakers and adding a sub or changing the sub and just disconnecting the stock sony sub. So if those rear were only sending mids, that shouldn't work. But it does.

Edit*
It would be fairly easy to tell if the sony amp does cut for the front/rear speakers, play a test tone of 50hz or 30hz and swap the rca's from the front speaker amp to the sub amp. See if the sub makes any noise.

Edit #2: Did the stock speakers have capacitors anywhere connected to them? If so then they are passive crossovers and not active.

lambie327

I have made 0 FORScan changes.

You can't disconnect the stock Sony Amp. That is incorrect. If you do, your volume **** will not work. The posts you are referring to are people using the Stock Sony Amp to power slightly better speakers. Additionally, there is a 2nd Sony Amp that is directly attached to the subwoofer enclosure under the rear passenger seat. They cut this amp out, taking it's inputs (or the outputs from Sony Amp 1) which are line level and then amplify those using an aftermarket amp. Which is why I have 0 issues with my subwoofers and 100% issues with my speakers/tweeters. Because the Sub DVC outputs from Sony Amp 1 are unprocessed until they hit Sony Amp 2. There are no sub frequencies in the door speaker wires and no one is tapping into the rear outputs for their subwoofer on this forum.

Hook the rears up to a LPF and see if they work. They don't.

Since my amp is hitting protect almost immediately than it's sensing an over amplified input and is disconnection the input internally so to not damage any internal components from having more voltage in the signal than in the damn power input itself!

jdunk54nl

First: you can disconnect the sony amp by doing the forscan changes that I linked you to in the forscan thread. You can also do this by using the PAC amp pro or the RF DSR1. You are right in saying you can't just disconnect it without doing one of those three as it runs on the can-bus system and not actual audio waves output until the sony amp processes those can-bus instructions...unless you do one of those three anyway.

Second: There are plenty of people that have changed door speakers AND amped those by tapping the signal after the sony amp and using a LOC without issues. A lot of them have also tapped the rear speaker outputs to add subs. Search it up you will find those threads. (this doesn't just apply to f150's as the sony system is not unique to the f150)

If your amp immediately goes into protect mode, you have wiring issues somewhere. You are just not finding them yet.

It sounds like you are trying to overcomplicate this whole process with the pin outs from your first post. Unless you are willing to do one of the above ways of disconnecting the sony amp, it isn't worth this much hassle. Use the KISS method (Keep it simple stupid). But you are apparently fed up with my answers and are not really willing to change your wiring around so you do you.

lambie327

The reason I do not believe it is wiring is because I bypassed all wiring as my first step in troubleshooting and homeran everything "slopply" through the middle of the vehicle without trying to hide them or anything. Just connect speaker to amp in the shortest way possible with 0 other types of connections or splices in between. Live Production revolves around KISS (pun intended), which is why I started here. Same issue.

I really appreciate your responses, but I feel as though my responses are equally as of value in regards to theory and I find it much easier to pick someones brain for knowledge than to rip apart my Harley F150 every day for some guess and check. And honestly, I was quite enjoying it because you're the first person who actually seems to know what they are talking about and not just regurgitate something they read someone else write.

Unfortunately the original installed hacked up some cables that didn't need to be (they put them back together in the end) and the dealer installed an aftermarket alarm and we all know how well of a job the dealer does with electrical neatness! So everywhere I look I find a new wire with a tap on it and something coming off it leading to a redneck e-tape cable sleeve off into the black abyss. Without having the full wiring diagram of the truck that I know is 100% complete it's a mess. That's why I ran all new wires of my own to each driver and from the connections under the center console to my LC6i (i replaced with 7i about a month ago to see if that would help because the 6i had been kicked around from idiots in my back seat... college years) and then all new pro-grade RCA's I soldered myself.

To me, the issue lies with whatever is literally melting the tweeters off my coaxials... but what could do such a thing and NOT send the amp into protect?!

jdunk54nl

To clarify, the original owner had an aftermarket system installed or is this the first aftermarket system in the truck?

lambie327

Sorry, I see how that is confusing now. I am the original owner, but I travel a lot as I'm a roadie... So I left my truck with the owner of SKAR Audio who was a friend back then when this truck was brand new (mid 2011). They had it for a few weeks and had some set backs on the install. They got it working and gave me the truck back. Now I am not traveling as much and am spending more than a few days a month in my truck and have begun to notice a difference in audio from my other systems. After inspecting I noticed the rats nest of a job. The front speakers were only running off the tweeter output of the Sony amp and the rears were running off the front outputs of the Sony Amp and the Subs were running off the rears using an EQ with a gross amount of bass boost to get this very open sounding bass. Had no kick to it, you couldn't feel it in your chest. The gains on my LC6i for Ch 1 and Ch 2 were vastly different as well which surprised me as I would assume the signal from the amp (if wired the way I would have assumed you should do it) would be equal on the front and rear and the subs would be different.

I re-wired it by running the fronts to front, (crossover to the tweeters), rears to the rears, and the DVC Sub output to the Subs. My subs destroy now, no complaints. (Except I want more, but who doesn't?) . The mids are way more clear and my gains on my LOC are now equal with one another and I have common gain structure all the way to my amp and through to the speakers. They put out the same SPL on the same settings now, as intended. But I have to run my LOC all the way down and if I gain my amp up beyond 50% I hear the buzz in the system. Put the truck volume to 75% and I can scramble eggs on my tweeters in seconds.

So now, I am not using the tweeter outputs at all. Just Front L/R, Rear L/R and Sub DVC 1/2.

jdunk54nl

So I am not 100% sure about the 2012's and being able to do the forscan changes. I know it works with sync 2 and sync 3 but I don't know about sync 1. Also the DSR1 does not work with sync 1.

If you want to simplify this and eliminate the sony amp stuff buy this. It will put your outputs before the sony amp/dsp. Then run your RCA's from it to your amp and your speaker wires from your amp to your speakers. If that doesn't eliminate the noise than something is feeding into radio output and/or can bus system that is causing it. My guess would be the alarm or whatever SKARR audio did.

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-...acing/ap4-fd11