2011 Sony System Upgrade
So i want to upgrade my factory Sony sound system by replacing the little 8" sub with 2 10's. I've subs to a few vehicles but they all had aftermarket head units and that made it very simple. My question is how should i connect my factory head unit to the amp? I was looking at a amp that says it accepts speaker level inputs, which from what i've read means i dont need a LOC. If this is true that would save me some money.
My main option right now is to run a NVX XLCA2, this is a 2 channel LOC which will leave me the option to possibly add an amp for door speakers in the future right?
If i run the NVX LOC do i hook it up before or after the factory sub amp? i'd prefer before the amp so that i can take the amp out and have more room for the sub box.
If i hook it up the sub amp input will i be able to use the second channel of the LOC for door speakers still?
My main option right now is to run a NVX XLCA2, this is a 2 channel LOC which will leave me the option to possibly add an amp for door speakers in the future right?
If i run the NVX LOC do i hook it up before or after the factory sub amp? i'd prefer before the amp so that i can take the amp out and have more room for the sub box.
If i hook it up the sub amp input will i be able to use the second channel of the LOC for door speakers still?
Get an amp that takes high level or pick up this for $70 (quickly as they sell out quick on the refurb/rebox)
https://www.parts-express.com/restoc...io--88-230-500
Or a new one:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...audio--230-500
The dsp is a LOC with A LOT more options.
After that, it depends on what your ultimate goal is on your audio upgrade. Tapping into the front right/left signal is a simple approach, but the factory amp has some fancy eq stuff on it.
If you want to really upgrade the system, then purchase this to bypass the factory amp. https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalo...faces/ap4-fd11
Bruce at @HushCarAudio can help you out with that. I'd still pick up the dayton dsp as it does a lot of stuff.
https://www.parts-express.com/restoc...io--88-230-500
Or a new one:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...audio--230-500
The dsp is a LOC with A LOT more options.
After that, it depends on what your ultimate goal is on your audio upgrade. Tapping into the front right/left signal is a simple approach, but the factory amp has some fancy eq stuff on it.
If you want to really upgrade the system, then purchase this to bypass the factory amp. https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalo...faces/ap4-fd11
Bruce at @HushCarAudio can help you out with that. I'd still pick up the dayton dsp as it does a lot of stuff.
Last edited by jdunk54nl; Mar 26, 2020 at 01:22 PM.
I have never used a DSP before and to be honest it seems like a little bit of overkill for what im looking for. I want to be able to ride with the windows down and jam. The PAC system seems interesting, but im still confused on if i need it.
I looked at the amp and it does accept speaker level inputs.
Door speakers: (4) 6x8 Skar TX68 (100W RMS coaxial)

Door speaker amp: Skar SK-M4004D (100W RMS @4ohm, speaker level input)

Sub Box: Fox acoustics 2 10's (sealed or ported not sure if there is an option, site is currently down)
Subs: (2) NVX VCW104 (750W RMS @ 4ohm)

Sub Amp: Skar RP-1500.1D (1500W RMS @ 1ohm, NO speaker level inputs?)

The reason for the XLCA2 LOC was for this amp. Would this setup work? if not what would you suggest? Do i still need the PAC system?
I looked at the amp and it does accept speaker level inputs.
Door speakers: (4) 6x8 Skar TX68 (100W RMS coaxial)

Door speaker amp: Skar SK-M4004D (100W RMS @4ohm, speaker level input)

Sub Box: Fox acoustics 2 10's (sealed or ported not sure if there is an option, site is currently down)
Subs: (2) NVX VCW104 (750W RMS @ 4ohm)

Sub Amp: Skar RP-1500.1D (1500W RMS @ 1ohm, NO speaker level inputs?)

The reason for the XLCA2 LOC was for this amp. Would this setup work? if not what would you suggest? Do i still need the PAC system?
You don't necessarily need the pac system, it will just get the cleanest signal possible back to the amps. Kind of same with the DSP, you don't "need" it, but it is a world of difference.






