2011 screw stereo help needed
10-29-2011, 08:22 PM
#1
2011 screw stereo help needed
Howdy!
As of this morning I knew nothing about car audio, I always bought vehicles with the preinstalled sony type systems and was happy. My 2011 came with the basic stereo with Sync, and as I'm sure you know it sucks! I have spent the entire day trying to figure this stuff out reading all the GREAT threads of installs here. Unfortunately I'm not sure I have it right, so here goes the way "I think" it works.
1. I pull my hu, and install a bt5520, I pull the 4 wires between the black connectors, plug the black connectors together. I then cut the 8 speaker wire of the 5520 and strip all 16 ends. I then have two of the 9 in one wires, of which I use one for the hu out and the other on the to the speaker side. I believe I'm done behind the hu at that point.
2. Behind the seat I pull the factory carpet off the back wall to route the wires, cut holes where my rack will mount, reinstall the carpet and mount the rack to it.All the component then mount to the rack.
3. the 9 in one that is the hu out gets hooked to the front and rear channel inputs of the LC6i. The LC6i needs power and a ground, that I can get from the block that feeds the amps, with its own wire. I don't need to use the remote in, because it will sense the power of the speaker wires and turn on. I then jam 2 wires in the remote out to power the two amps. I then hook 4 rca cables from channel one and two to my four channel amps rca inputs. The third channel goes to the single channel amp for the sub.
4. The 4 channel amp then has an out that I hook the other 9 in wire up to taking the power back up front to hook to the original speaker outs. The one channel amp gets two wire run to the sub under the back seat. T. B C.
As of this morning I knew nothing about car audio, I always bought vehicles with the preinstalled sony type systems and was happy. My 2011 came with the basic stereo with Sync, and as I'm sure you know it sucks! I have spent the entire day trying to figure this stuff out reading all the GREAT threads of installs here. Unfortunately I'm not sure I have it right, so here goes the way "I think" it works.
1. I pull my hu, and install a bt5520, I pull the 4 wires between the black connectors, plug the black connectors together. I then cut the 8 speaker wire of the 5520 and strip all 16 ends. I then have two of the 9 in one wires, of which I use one for the hu out and the other on the to the speaker side. I believe I'm done behind the hu at that point.
2. Behind the seat I pull the factory carpet off the back wall to route the wires, cut holes where my rack will mount, reinstall the carpet and mount the rack to it.All the component then mount to the rack.
3. the 9 in one that is the hu out gets hooked to the front and rear channel inputs of the LC6i. The LC6i needs power and a ground, that I can get from the block that feeds the amps, with its own wire. I don't need to use the remote in, because it will sense the power of the speaker wires and turn on. I then jam 2 wires in the remote out to power the two amps. I then hook 4 rca cables from channel one and two to my four channel amps rca inputs. The third channel goes to the single channel amp for the sub.
4. The 4 channel amp then has an out that I hook the other 9 in wire up to taking the power back up front to hook to the original speaker outs. The one channel amp gets two wire run to the sub under the back seat. T. B C.
10-29-2011, 08:22 PM
#2
5. I believe I now have 4 powered speakers plus the sub. I want to change the back speakers to 6x8, and think it is a simple plug and play, with the help of some homemade adapter plates.
6. The fronts I want to install component speakers. At this point I would still have the stock wires in the doors. I would cut them and run them to the cross over, and from the crossover to the speaker as well as the tweeter. ( which I would like to drill the sail and have them flush mounted.
YIKES!! Am I understanding all of this the right way? If I am I guess its time for part 2... Picking out speakers and amps. Thank you very much for any input, and I'm sorry for the length of this, just trying to put it all into laymens terms.
6. The fronts I want to install component speakers. At this point I would still have the stock wires in the doors. I would cut them and run them to the cross over, and from the crossover to the speaker as well as the tweeter. ( which I would like to drill the sail and have them flush mounted.
YIKES!! Am I understanding all of this the right way? If I am I guess its time for part 2... Picking out speakers and amps. Thank you very much for any input, and I'm sorry for the length of this, just trying to put it all into laymens terms.
10-30-2011, 12:36 PM
#3
Boost :)
I've got the BT harness as well as the Lc6i in my truck so I can tell you that from what you are saying so far, it looks like you have it right. A few tips or pieces of info I can give you that might help a bit:
1. You don't have to use a remote wire to the Lc6i but you might want to. It is signal sensing and if you have delays in sound or music of any kind, it will turn off. This especially becomes a problem while you are using your phone if you have it set up. Just depends on your personal preference. If you want to run a remote, get an "add a circuit" fuse tap and put it in Fuse spot 41 (I think that's right) and you will have remote turn on capability. The down side to this is the amps will be on any time the truck is on, but I wanted that anyway. You will also have an audible pop in your speakers when it turns off. This is very slight for me so it doesn't bother me.
2. The rear 6x8 speakers will be completely plug and play with no adapters needed if you order the correct speakers. Most 5x7 / 6x8 speakers will bolt right up and if you buy the speaker wire adapters, you won't have to do any wiring work either.
3. Component speakers you are exactly right. Take the factory speaker wire and feed it to the crossover and let the crossover split the signal to the midrange and tweeter from there. I did not flush mount my tweeters as I wanted them facing the driver and passenger, but that's just me.
Sounds like you have it figured out pretty well so far. Keep the RCA's as short as you can to eliminate engine noise if you can. I ran the power wire down the passenger side of the truck and ran the speaker wires down the driver side. I have ZERO engine noise of any kind in doing it this way.
Best of luck to you. Sounds like you are well on your way.
1. You don't have to use a remote wire to the Lc6i but you might want to. It is signal sensing and if you have delays in sound or music of any kind, it will turn off. This especially becomes a problem while you are using your phone if you have it set up. Just depends on your personal preference. If you want to run a remote, get an "add a circuit" fuse tap and put it in Fuse spot 41 (I think that's right) and you will have remote turn on capability. The down side to this is the amps will be on any time the truck is on, but I wanted that anyway. You will also have an audible pop in your speakers when it turns off. This is very slight for me so it doesn't bother me.
2. The rear 6x8 speakers will be completely plug and play with no adapters needed if you order the correct speakers. Most 5x7 / 6x8 speakers will bolt right up and if you buy the speaker wire adapters, you won't have to do any wiring work either.
3. Component speakers you are exactly right. Take the factory speaker wire and feed it to the crossover and let the crossover split the signal to the midrange and tweeter from there. I did not flush mount my tweeters as I wanted them facing the driver and passenger, but that's just me.
Sounds like you have it figured out pretty well so far. Keep the RCA's as short as you can to eliminate engine noise if you can. I ran the power wire down the passenger side of the truck and ran the speaker wires down the driver side. I have ZERO engine noise of any kind in doing it this way.
Best of luck to you. Sounds like you are well on your way.
10-30-2011, 07:19 PM
#4
I'll suggest the Infinity Kappa speakers as they make a 5x7/6x8 coax AND component so you get the maximum size allowed with plug and play simplicity!!!! I just ordered them after ordering incorrectly two other sets!!!!!!!
Last edited by Bug Bunny; 10-30-2011 at 07:21 PM.
10-30-2011, 08:15 PM
#5
One more thought I would like some input on. I have been doing a TON of reading, and I am now wondering if I should go the route of the pac adapter instead, just running the amp of off a single channel amp and replace all of the speakers, coaxial in the back and component in the front, not run off an amp. or the pac to a 4 channel, then run speaker wire back up to the front and split the leads headed to the door to feed the components, as I am not going to deal with the molex connectors. Advice sought.
10-31-2011, 07:19 AM
#6
Senior Member
Just a suggestion.. I recently installed polk mm 6501 components up front and just that alone vastly improved the sound quality to the Sony system.. the sensitivity is much higher thus making the sound come through amazingly clear. About 170 off amazon. Good luck with your system, cheers 
10-31-2011, 10:53 AM
#7
Dazed and Confused
One more thought I would like some input on. I have been doing a TON of reading, and I am now wondering if I should go the route of the pac adapter instead, just running the amp of off a single channel amp and replace all of the speakers, coaxial in the back and component in the front, not run off an amp. or the pac to a 4 channel, then run speaker wire back up to the front and split the leads headed to the door to feed the components, as I am not going to deal with the molex connectors. Advice sought.
Last edited by Tallyman89; 10-31-2011 at 11:00 AM.