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2011 F250 complete system but need LOC help

Old 04-23-2019, 09:06 PM
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Smile 2011 F250 complete system but need LOC help

I will be installing a 2-way passive system w/subwoofer into my 2011 F-250, non-Sony vehicle.

Stock head unit
PAC FRD24 amplifier interface wiring harness (for RCA outs and ability to go back to stock easily)
Audio Control LC7i LOC (for summing capabilities + accubass)
Amp 1: Arc Audio KS 300.2, tfor PHD components rated at 120/240 Watts
Amp 2: Sundown Audio SAE-600D, for Sundown Audio SD3 10” sub

My plan is to run RCA’s from PAC unit to LC7i and new speaker wires from the amp directly to the door speakers.

My question is whether having the PAC FRD24 running to the LC7i will present any problems with sound signal quality, noise introduction or otherwise. Also, I have been told the stock head unit signal is good by some and bad by others, which is why I believe the summing of the LC7i would work well, especially to prevent bass roll off.

Second question is if you see any issues with this setup from a SQ standpoint. I will be installing MLV and deadener throughout. I know running active would be better but I’m not ready to go there just yet, and that would require another amp and DSP.

I've been reading the forum most of the day and have been reading about using forscan to fix the signal. Could this be an option instead of the LC7?

Thanks!

Last edited by motv8r; 04-23-2019 at 09:09 PM.
Old 04-23-2019, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by motv8r
I will be installing a 2-way passive system w/subwoofer into my 2011 F-250, non-Sony vehicle.

Stock head unit
PAC FRD24 amplifier interface wiring harness (for RCA outs and ability to go back to stock easily)
Audio Control LC7i LOC (for summing capabilities + accubass)
Amp 1: Arc Audio KS 300.2, tfor PHD components rated at 120/240 Watts
Amp 2: Sundown Audio SAE-600D, for Sundown Audio SD3 10” sub

My plan is to run RCA’s from PAC unit to LC7i and new speaker wires from the amp directly to the door speakers.

My question is whether having the cv running to the LC7i will present any problems with sound signal quality, noise introduction or otherwise. Also, I have been told the stock head unit signal is good by some and bad by others, which is why I believe the summing of the LC7i would work well, especially to prevent bass roll off.

Second question is if you see any issues with this setup from a SQ standpoint. I will be installing MLV and deadener throughout. I know running active would be better but I’m not ready to go there just yet, and that would require another amp and DSP.

I've been reading the forum most of the day and have been reading about using forscan to fix the signal. Could this be an option instead of the LC7?

Thanks!
The PAC FRD24 is an LOC and the signal is summed. All you need out of the PAC is the front left and right channels. The lc7I is redundant. Save yourself $100.00 and grab the Dayton 408 dsp instead of the lc7i. You will thank yourself.
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Old 04-23-2019, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dhmcfadin
The PAC FRD24 is an LOC and the signal is summed. All you need out of the PAC is the front left and right channels. The lc7I is redundant. Save yourself $100.00 and grab the Dayton 408 dsp instead of the lc7i. You will thank yourself.
Thanks for chiming in, dhmcfadin. Unfortunately the only thing I haven't already purchased is the PAC unit. Already have the lc7. Should I just get the pac and forego the lc7? Also, on the pac, do I run the front rca's to the amp for the doors and the rear rca's to the sub amp?
Old 04-24-2019, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by motv8r
Thanks for chiming in, dhmcfadin. Unfortunately the only thing I haven't already purchased is the PAC unit. Already have the lc7. Should I just get the pac and forego the lc7? Also, on the pac, do I run the front rca's to the amp for the doors and the rear rca's to the sub amp?
The problem with the lc7i is that it doesn't accept rca input.

I would run just grab a couple RCA splitters.
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Old 04-24-2019, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by dhmcfadin
The problem with the lc7i is that it doesn't accept rca input.

I would run just grab a couple RCA splitters.
Thanks for the advice. I'll leave the LOC in the closet and pick up the PAC.
Old 04-24-2019, 03:48 PM
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i have an PAC, LC2i, LC7i, DQ61, JL Fix all sitting in my closet because i bought a Dayton DSP
Old 04-24-2019, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by doug97gxe
i have an PAC, LC2i, LC7i, DQ61, JL Fix all sitting in my closet because i bought a Dayton DSP

sorry, you don't get your badge until you have at least 2-4 vehicles with complete systems and enough spares to outfit another 1-3 cars ask me how i know...
Old 04-24-2019, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nineball
sorry, you don't get your badge until you have at least 2-4 vehicles with complete systems and enough spares to outfit another 1-3 cars ask me how i know...
that was just as far as LOC's go .. i also have 2 10" morel ultimo sc subs.. 2 10" RE subs ... rainbow components ... ipaul 400.2 amps and ipaul dm2000 amps .. hertz hsk components all in storage
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Old 04-24-2019, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by doug97gxe
i have an PAC, LC2i, LC7i, DQ61, JL Fix all sitting in my closet because i bought a Dayton DSP
Are you running an active or passive system? It was mentioned I buy one earlier but since my system will be passive I didn't think a DSP would benefit me at all.

Last edited by motv8r; 04-24-2019 at 10:30 PM. Reason: speeling...
Old 04-25-2019, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by motv8r
Are you running an active or passive system? It was mentioned I buy one earlier but since my system will be passive I didn't think a DSP would benefit me at all.
i'm running active.. when i had my DQ61 i was running passive .. though i have my Hertz crossovers and they are suppose to be amazing .. i disconnected them and let the Dayton DSP handle everything .. i didn't want any after processing or frequency change after i set my values in the DSP and i'm loving the setup

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