2004-2008 Audio Basics
12-23-2018, 12:39 PM
#421
Have an 04 SCAB FX4 standard audio(no sub). Bought an 08 audiophile(3 plugs) NAV system and plan to get the oem sub.
questions:
1 will the factory wiring plug in and work for the NAV system except the sub?
2 has anyone ever made the harness for the oem sub from oem NAV audiophile hu? what parts were used?
thanks!
questions:
1 will the factory wiring plug in and work for the NAV system except the sub?
2 has anyone ever made the harness for the oem sub from oem NAV audiophile hu? what parts were used?
thanks!
12-25-2018, 10:07 AM
#422
Have an 04 SCAB FX4 standard audio(no sub). Bought an 08 audiophile(3 plugs) NAV system and plan to get the oem sub.
questions:
1 will the factory wiring plug in and work for the NAV system except the sub?
2 has anyone ever made the harness for the oem sub from oem NAV audiophile hu? what parts were used?
thanks!
questions:
1 will the factory wiring plug in and work for the NAV system except the sub?
2 has anyone ever made the harness for the oem sub from oem NAV audiophile hu? what parts were used?
thanks!
01-25-2019, 01:05 PM
#423
New audio system for 2004 Lariat Screw
I have a 2004 F150 Lariat SuperCrew. I believe it has the Premium audio system. AM/FM single CD. I want to replace the HU with one that has Bluetooth and a backup camera but I don't want to diminish the sound quality. I am not a audiophile and I don't understand audio system specifications.... so how do I find a HU that will sound at least as good as the OEM unit?
What qualities or attributes do I look at. Is it AMPs, Watts, the size or rational speed of the muffler bearings?
I don't need top end but I want to add Bluetooth and back up camera without going backwards on sound.
Thanks
dt
What qualities or attributes do I look at. Is it AMPs, Watts, the size or rational speed of the muffler bearings?
I don't need top end but I want to add Bluetooth and back up camera without going backwards on sound.
Thanks
dt
01-25-2019, 01:44 PM
#424
I have a 2004 F150 Lariat SuperCrew. I believe it has the Premium audio system. AM/FM single CD. I want to replace the HU with one that has Bluetooth and a backup camera but I don't want to diminish the sound quality. I am not a audiophile and I don't understand audio system specifications.... so how do I find a HU that will sound at least as good as the OEM unit?
What qualities or attributes do I look at. Is it AMPs, Watts, the size or rational speed of the muffler bearings?
I don't need top end but I want to add Bluetooth and back up camera without going backwards on sound.
Thanks
dt
What qualities or attributes do I look at. Is it AMPs, Watts, the size or rational speed of the muffler bearings?
I don't need top end but I want to add Bluetooth and back up camera without going backwards on sound.
Thanks
dt
04-23-2020, 09:48 PM
#425
Hi, I have been planning my sound upgrade. during the Covid 19 pandemic. I've read a lot of the info in this thread, just couldn't get through all of it even though my parts took 9 days to arrive. I guess other people are spending their time doing their audio over too!
Well the stuff arrived,finally and I got started. I have a 2005 SCREW that I bought new, I realize that's pretty old for upgrades, but it's a keeper and I had never given the sound system any attention. Believe me it was completely underwhelming. Plain stereo with rear seat entertainment and the 6 disc mp3 capable head unit.
So I bought a bluetooth converter from Crutchfield, that came in 2 days. It went in with out drama. I'm happy.
I ordered my sound stuff from Sonicelectronix. Got MTX 681 component speakers for my front doors and Polk dB572 Coax for the rear doors. I also got a Cerwin Vega B54 Bomber class D amp, 80 watts RMS X 4 into 4 ohms. This was the order that took too long. They apologized when I complained. But I really was not happy about the way they took my payment and never pointed out that the order would be late on the order cart screen. When I complained they pointed to a banner on their web page that basically said " we are a facing minimal delays" and at the end of the banner it proclaimed orders would be a day or two delayed. I wish they had given me the chance to opt out at the point of purchase, I might have.
So, to the install. The rear speakers were a bolt in. I bought some pigtails so I would not need to do any cutting on the harness. The fronts were not so simple. I read someones post that he had put his crossovers in the front armrests, which I managed to do. But not without some effort.
Also, I stayed up the night before making some changes to the AOEM-FRD24 interface so my amp would feed the oe speaker wires. That came out well.
And I prewired my crossovers, which turned out to be a mistake. I found when I went to use the crossovers, the wires were too short. Then when I extended them they would not stay in the screw down terminals in the crossover. I called customer service, the tech guy told me to coat the tips of the wires with solder. That would let them stay screwed down.
I couldn't find my old soldering stuff anywhere. So I bought a gas torch, which I recommend, that thing rocks. .
The main reason I am posting.is because I wanted to point out that the crossovers could be stashed in the armrests, and that if you need to install some tweeters that are over sized, like mine are, you can attach a piece of wood to the back of the door panel to use as a drill guide for your hole saw.
I will have the amp in tomorrow. Will report if anything unusual happens.
Well the stuff arrived,finally and I got started. I have a 2005 SCREW that I bought new, I realize that's pretty old for upgrades, but it's a keeper and I had never given the sound system any attention. Believe me it was completely underwhelming. Plain stereo with rear seat entertainment and the 6 disc mp3 capable head unit.
So I bought a bluetooth converter from Crutchfield, that came in 2 days. It went in with out drama. I'm happy.
I ordered my sound stuff from Sonicelectronix. Got MTX 681 component speakers for my front doors and Polk dB572 Coax for the rear doors. I also got a Cerwin Vega B54 Bomber class D amp, 80 watts RMS X 4 into 4 ohms. This was the order that took too long. They apologized when I complained. But I really was not happy about the way they took my payment and never pointed out that the order would be late on the order cart screen. When I complained they pointed to a banner on their web page that basically said " we are a facing minimal delays" and at the end of the banner it proclaimed orders would be a day or two delayed. I wish they had given me the chance to opt out at the point of purchase, I might have.
So, to the install. The rear speakers were a bolt in. I bought some pigtails so I would not need to do any cutting on the harness. The fronts were not so simple. I read someones post that he had put his crossovers in the front armrests, which I managed to do. But not without some effort.
Also, I stayed up the night before making some changes to the AOEM-FRD24 interface so my amp would feed the oe speaker wires. That came out well.
And I prewired my crossovers, which turned out to be a mistake. I found when I went to use the crossovers, the wires were too short. Then when I extended them they would not stay in the screw down terminals in the crossover. I called customer service, the tech guy told me to coat the tips of the wires with solder. That would let them stay screwed down.
I couldn't find my old soldering stuff anywhere. So I bought a gas torch, which I recommend, that thing rocks. .
The main reason I am posting.is because I wanted to point out that the crossovers could be stashed in the armrests, and that if you need to install some tweeters that are over sized, like mine are, you can attach a piece of wood to the back of the door panel to use as a drill guide for your hole saw.
I will have the amp in tomorrow. Will report if anything unusual happens.
Last edited by NHGuy; 04-23-2020 at 10:16 PM.
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Wyo11Scab (04-24-2020)
04-28-2020, 04:52 PM
#426
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Help!!! Please!!
Q11: How do I get an aux in on my 04-06 or iPod control on my 04-08?
Several companies have adapters, but you must have the aux button on the radio to use them. Most will take the place of the rear seat entertainment or Sirius.
P.I.E. http://www.pie.net/
Brand Motion http://www.brandmotion.com/ https://www.f150forum.com/f30/brand-...adapter-50931/
USA Spec http://www.usaspec.com/
iSimple http://isimplesolutions.com/ipod-adapter/default.asp
Q12: The paint is flaking on my stock head unit, can I just swap faceplates?
Yes, https://www.f150forum.com/f30/removi...-player-50745/
Q13: I installed an aftermarket amplifier, and now my lights dim when the bass hits, do I need a capacitor?
No! You need to upgrade your electrical system. Do the Big 3/4 first https://www.f150forum.com/f33/how-big-3-upgrade-46822/ . Then look at batteries and alternators.
Q14: How do I remove/install the factory head unit?
1. Pull off the center instrument panel finish panel.
2. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the finish panel.
3. Remove the 4 screws and the audio unit.
4. Disconnect the electrical connectors and the antenna lead.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Q15: How much dynamat do I need?
Less than you think, read the info at sounddeadenershowdown.com and raamaudio
Q16: I want to install an aftermarket amplifier, can I keep my stock head unit?
Yes! You have two choices, either buy an amplifier with speaker level inputs or buy a "Line Output Converter" (LOC) to change the speaker level signal to a low (RCA) level signal. You can get a lot of different LOCs and prices range from $20 to $500+.
Basic LOCs are available from companies like Scoshe, PAC, and Stinger. DavidNavone.com has some well respected ones.
The next step are Bass Restoration Processor LOCs, like some Audiocontrol units and the MTX Re-Q series.
The best of the best have built in "Digital Signal Processing" (DSP) and the ability to sum signals that have been split. These include the JL Audio Cleansweep and the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty series.
Q17: How do I swap my stock head unit for an aftermarket one?
There are two things you need to do a head unit swap from stock to aftermarket.
The first is what is called a dash kit, which is a plastic "adapter" to let the universal mount of the aftermarket hu attach to Ford's model specific mounting. The 04-08 F150 Metra dash kit is 95-5812 for Double Din aftermarket installation and 99-5807 for single dins. The kit will come with instructions, and once you remove the stock head installation is fairly simple.
The second is called a "harness," and isn't mandatory, but it makes things significantly easier and allows you to easily switch back to your stock head unit. The aftermarket deck will come with it's own connector with pigtails (these are normally interchangeable with similar models from the same brand). In order to integrate the new deck's pigtail, you'll need to attach it wire by wire to a factory integration harness, I listed the Metra model numbers in the first post. Some units, like DVD players, will need to be connected to other wires as well to get signals for your parking brake. You can accomplish the same thing without the integration harness, but you will have to permanently cut off your factory connectors and do all the wire connection up in the dash. You can either use crimp connectors or solder the wires together, make sure you secure and insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink whichever way you go. Using crimp connectors and following the instructions, you should be able to connect the harness and complete installation in around an hour your first time.
Q18: Can I retain my factory Rear Seat DVD Entertainment (RSE) with an aftermarket head unit?
Yes, use PIE FRD04-DVD
Several companies have adapters, but you must have the aux button on the radio to use them. Most will take the place of the rear seat entertainment or Sirius.
P.I.E. http://www.pie.net/
Brand Motion http://www.brandmotion.com/ https://www.f150forum.com/f30/brand-...adapter-50931/
USA Spec http://www.usaspec.com/
iSimple http://isimplesolutions.com/ipod-adapter/default.asp
Q12: The paint is flaking on my stock head unit, can I just swap faceplates?
Yes, https://www.f150forum.com/f30/removi...-player-50745/
Q13: I installed an aftermarket amplifier, and now my lights dim when the bass hits, do I need a capacitor?
No! You need to upgrade your electrical system. Do the Big 3/4 first https://www.f150forum.com/f33/how-big-3-upgrade-46822/ . Then look at batteries and alternators.
Q14: How do I remove/install the factory head unit?
1. Pull off the center instrument panel finish panel.
2. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the finish panel.
3. Remove the 4 screws and the audio unit.
4. Disconnect the electrical connectors and the antenna lead.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Q15: How much dynamat do I need?
Less than you think, read the info at sounddeadenershowdown.com and raamaudio
Q16: I want to install an aftermarket amplifier, can I keep my stock head unit?
Yes! You have two choices, either buy an amplifier with speaker level inputs or buy a "Line Output Converter" (LOC) to change the speaker level signal to a low (RCA) level signal. You can get a lot of different LOCs and prices range from $20 to $500+.
Basic LOCs are available from companies like Scoshe, PAC, and Stinger. DavidNavone.com has some well respected ones.
The next step are Bass Restoration Processor LOCs, like some Audiocontrol units and the MTX Re-Q series.
The best of the best have built in "Digital Signal Processing" (DSP) and the ability to sum signals that have been split. These include the JL Audio Cleansweep and the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty series.
Q17: How do I swap my stock head unit for an aftermarket one?
There are two things you need to do a head unit swap from stock to aftermarket.
The first is what is called a dash kit, which is a plastic "adapter" to let the universal mount of the aftermarket hu attach to Ford's model specific mounting. The 04-08 F150 Metra dash kit is 95-5812 for Double Din aftermarket installation and 99-5807 for single dins. The kit will come with instructions, and once you remove the stock head installation is fairly simple.
The second is called a "harness," and isn't mandatory, but it makes things significantly easier and allows you to easily switch back to your stock head unit. The aftermarket deck will come with it's own connector with pigtails (these are normally interchangeable with similar models from the same brand). In order to integrate the new deck's pigtail, you'll need to attach it wire by wire to a factory integration harness, I listed the Metra model numbers in the first post. Some units, like DVD players, will need to be connected to other wires as well to get signals for your parking brake. You can accomplish the same thing without the integration harness, but you will have to permanently cut off your factory connectors and do all the wire connection up in the dash. You can either use crimp connectors or solder the wires together, make sure you secure and insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink whichever way you go. Using crimp connectors and following the instructions, you should be able to connect the harness and complete installation in around an hour your first time.
Q18: Can I retain my factory Rear Seat DVD Entertainment (RSE) with an aftermarket head unit?
Yes, use PIE FRD04-DVD
06-20-2020, 11:48 PM
#427
I have an 08 xlt not audiophile nor do i have the sub wiring. I found a factory sub, and would like to know the part number for the subs connector and source, or harness
..
Thank you for reading
Fritz and sons
..
Thank you for reading
Fritz and sons
06-22-2020, 05:12 PM
#429