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Nineball - So this is what is driving some of my decision on the build. I agree that the rears are likely not going to do much but if I run speaker level from the headunit into the DSP - I can let the rears run off the headunit and control with the fader to see if the rears help. My assumption is the sound quality and noise level differences between speaker and line level into the DSP are not noticeable. If there is a difference then I will go line level from the start and not even bother with the rears.
I have my system wired this way, leaving the upgraded Pioneer rears powered by the head unit, active front with a 4-channel Kicker Key via high-level inputs. From a sound quality perspective, I leave it faded all the way to the front. The rears don't hold a candle to what the fronts are producing and that's with the built-in signal processing and only 45x4 that the Key is producing. The time alignment gets even more confused as the Key is centering the fronts but the rears are unmodified. I only retained them so rear seat passengers will get some sound, but that's not very often.
dhmcfadin talked me into staying high-level and I am happy with the results. Less modifications, less components, less opportunity to introduce noise into the system.
I did end up using a LOC to the sub amp for my particular setup. My JL 500/1 did not like high-level input. A modern amp that isn't 15 years old will likely do much better with high level inputs. The Kicker Key loves it.
Okay got a good start on a new subwoofer today. 1.3 cu ft (1.6 before accounting for speaker and vent) ported, down firing. Going to use my current Image Dynamics IDQ 10 but designed it to take a 12". Toughest part is fitting the height of the speaker - the IDQ is nearly 6" deep but I managed to just make it fit. Top picture is looking at top of enclosure, bottom picture is looking at bottom of enclosure. I probably have another couple of hours to finish but had to get ribs on the grill for Super Bowl!
Ok finished the sub a couple of weeks ago and very happy with the result. This weekend I started the build. Removed rear seats and sound deadened back panel and rear floor. Used the For 11ck harness, soldered everything on the bench and installed it this weekend. Ran all the wiring. So now I am going back together. Did my amp and DSP rack tonight mounting behind the rear seat but still I tried to make it look nice. Decided to give the NVX 11005 amp a try. 5 channels and dynos well above it's rating. Tomorrow I will try to test wire and try before I begin the permanent install. My other past time is below. Cured and smoked pork bellies a couple of weeks ago. Had a bacon slicing party this weekend with my buddies - sliced and packed 80 lbs of some of the best bacon you ever tasted. I know the smoker is ugly but I cold smoke and this allows me to keep the temp cool.
A question for those that run active. I will do most of my tuning with the DSP but any suggestions on the best way to set the gain on the amp? I know how to set the gain on a passive set-up but is there anything unique about active? Should the gain be the same for the tweeter and woofer or set different for each?
Beautiful work all the way around! Next to Audiocontrol, NVX is my next choice for amps hands down! Those amps always make more than their rated power, are extremely quiet, and unlike other cheaper amps, these are CEA certified.
Let me know if you want to do some tuning on the 408. If you have a mic, I am happy to spend thirty minutes over team viewer taking sweeps and getting your system dialed in! Great job!
Dhmcfadin - I have no idea where you find the time. You are a great source of information and I appreciate the help so far. Let me get the install complete and I may take you up on the offer. At this rate I need a couple of more weekends - these installs take time and patience!
A question for those that run active. I will do most of my tuning with the DSP but any suggestions on the best way to set the gain on the amp? I know how to set the gain on a passive set-up but is there anything unique about active? Should the gain be the same for the tweeter and woofer or set different for each?
You will set your gains like normal using a SMD DD1 or oscilloscope. Setting gains is the first thing you will do before any eq or crossovers.
1. Set each of your output channel crossovers on the DSP to all-pass or off.
2. Set each of your crossovers on your amp to all-pass, full-pass, or off.
3. Set your gain on your amp to minimum.
4. Subwoofer gain- Run a -5 or -10 db 40hz or 50hz test tone at about volume level 26. Use your SMD DD1 or oscilloscope or if you must a voltage meter (last resort). Using a - db test tone is called gain overlap is good idea because different songs are recorded at different volumes. This will give you extra output when you need it.
Speaker channel gain- Run a 0 db 1khz test tone at volume level 26. Use your SMD DD1 or oscilloscope or if you must a voltage meter (last resort).
From here, once your gain is physically set on the amp, the rest of your gain adjustment will occur inside the dsp during tuning. This is called level matching and will allow you to fine tune the volume of each individual speaker so that they all hit your ears with the same output.
I'm a firm believer of using a full sound stage meaning I like using rear speakers in addition to the fronts. I personally love hearing music surround me similar to how a home audio system or movie theater does it. Being immersed is a great feeling. Every single show car at all audio conventions use rear fill and have upgraded speakers in the back. After you get the front staging worked out seriously consider upgrading the rear speakers as well. Your ears will thank you.
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01-25-2019, 01:21 PM
