'17 F-150 Build Log
10-26-2017, 11:44 AM
#11
Lol. Honestly if it does cause corrosion it'll likely be so slow that you'd never even know.
I do, the factory sub was like 60W or something. I've got a 300W RMS sub now. Lol WAY better. Yours should be leaps and bounds better.
Nope, there's like 4 christmas tree pins, just be careful with them and you can reuse them. My amp is held on my velcro (15lb outdoor), and my sub box is held to the back with the same stuff. Hardest part was figuring out where to run the power wire (went along the top of the frame, then through the cab vent), and what wiring to tap into. I used a ground where the passenger seat clips to the back wall, zip tied the wiring to the sliding window cables to keep things clean.
I do, the factory sub was like 60W or something. I've got a 300W RMS sub now. Lol WAY better. Yours should be leaps and bounds better.
Nope, there's like 4 christmas tree pins, just be careful with them and you can reuse them. My amp is held on my velcro (15lb outdoor), and my sub box is held to the back with the same stuff. Hardest part was figuring out where to run the power wire (went along the top of the frame, then through the cab vent), and what wiring to tap into. I used a ground where the passenger seat clips to the back wall, zip tied the wiring to the sliding window cables to keep things clean.
Right now my debate is regarding where to run my speaker wire. Most installs have it all running along the driver side channel, away from the power, which is usually run along the passenger side. My speaker wire is twisted/shielded and I plan to ground the shield at the amps. I'm trying to decide if it's worth running along the passenger side with the power, knowing it'll be a lot more work to re-run it down the driver side if there are any noise issues.
10-26-2017, 12:01 PM
#12
Texas A&M Aggie
I don't, but basically I ran it from the battery, temporarily mounted my fuse holder on the hook by the PCM in the engine bay, then down between the fender well and the firewall to the ground. From there I ran it along the tops of the body mounts on the passenger side, then into the cab vent. It's not my favorite way, but I couldn't find a grommet on the firewall. I hate running wiring on these trucks, there's so much stuff behind the dash. My '07 F-150 was so much easier.
A lot of people said run the power wire that way too. I wanted to keep my power wire shorter for resistance and price issues so I was determined on the passenger side. I did run my bass **** wiring down the passenger side, and mounted it above the gas pedal out of the way.
A lot of people said run the power wire that way too. I wanted to keep my power wire shorter for resistance and price issues so I was determined on the passenger side. I did run my bass **** wiring down the passenger side, and mounted it above the gas pedal out of the way.
10-26-2017, 01:07 PM
#13
I don't, but basically I ran it from the battery, temporarily mounted my fuse holder on the hook by the PCM in the engine bay, then down between the fender well and the firewall to the ground. From there I ran it along the tops of the body mounts on the passenger side, then into the cab vent. It's not my favorite way, but I couldn't find a grommet on the firewall. I hate running wiring on these trucks, there's so much stuff behind the dash. My '07 F-150 was so much easier.
A lot of people said run the power wire that way too. I wanted to keep my power wire shorter for resistance and price issues so I was determined on the passenger side. I did run my bass **** wiring down the passenger side, and mounted it above the gas pedal out of the way.
A lot of people said run the power wire that way too. I wanted to keep my power wire shorter for resistance and price issues so I was determined on the passenger side. I did run my bass **** wiring down the passenger side, and mounted it above the gas pedal out of the way.
I want to install my DSP remote, which is a 2-ring dial and separate LED on the center console, behind the shifter on the black panel. I have no idea how to tear apart the center console though.. so that will be fun. I typically drive with my hand resting on the shifter, so it'd be a natural place to have the dial, right behind the shifter.
10-26-2017, 03:12 PM
#14
Senior Member
I'll see what I can figure out for getting the power wire run through the firewall. I agree.. it's awfully packed under the dash!
I want to install my DSP remote, which is a 2-ring dial and separate LED on the center console, behind the shifter on the black panel. I have no idea how to tear apart the center console though.. so that will be fun. I typically drive with my hand resting on the shifter, so it'd be a natural place to have the dial, right behind the shifter.
I want to install my DSP remote, which is a 2-ring dial and separate LED on the center console, behind the shifter on the black panel. I have no idea how to tear apart the center console though.. so that will be fun. I typically drive with my hand resting on the shifter, so it'd be a natural place to have the dial, right behind the shifter.
The area you're talking about just snaps in and can be pulled with a panel popper.
2 t-20 security torx and more clips hold the cup holder and shifter trim on and then it's a bit of empty space and bracing.
From there, I pulled the passenger seat and there's a little cutout that you can pull wire through and then slip it under the carpet and run it back to where you're putting the twk88. (Did you already buy one? I'm about to sell mine and buy a ps-8)
If you want the wire completely hidden where no one could see it ever, you'll have to pull both front seats to get to all the bolts holding the console down, then you can pull under the carpet as above.
10-26-2017, 06:02 PM
#15
Texas A&M Aggie
Spoiler warning, you'll have to pull a seat out to get wire from back into center console.
The area you're talking about just snaps in and can be pulled with a panel popper.
2 t-20 security torx and more clips hold the cup holder and shifter trim on and then it's a bit of empty space and bracing.
From there, I pulled the passenger seat and there's a little cutout that you can pull wire through and then slip it under the carpet and run it back to where you're putting the twk88. (Did you already buy one? I'm about to sell mine and buy a ps-8)
If you want the wire completely hidden where no one could see it ever, you'll have to pull both front seats to get to all the bolts holding the console down, then you can pull under the carpet as above.
The area you're talking about just snaps in and can be pulled with a panel popper.
2 t-20 security torx and more clips hold the cup holder and shifter trim on and then it's a bit of empty space and bracing.
From there, I pulled the passenger seat and there's a little cutout that you can pull wire through and then slip it under the carpet and run it back to where you're putting the twk88. (Did you already buy one? I'm about to sell mine and buy a ps-8)
If you want the wire completely hidden where no one could see it ever, you'll have to pull both front seats to get to all the bolts holding the console down, then you can pull under the carpet as above.
10-26-2017, 07:14 PM
#16
Senior Member
There might not be enough ethernet cable with the kit for that, but that would work, too. That's how I ran my **** wire when it was in the kia I had before my truck.
10-27-2017, 09:42 AM
#17
Thanks for the info though.. Know of any good guides for how to pop the center console panels?
Regarding the TWK88 - no, I didn't get mine yet. It was supposed to come in yesterday but the shop never called me. Why are you dropping the TWK for another DSP?
10-27-2017, 10:31 AM
#18
Texas A&M Aggie
Just stumbled across where I saw the info about silicon and RTV.
A note about using Silicone on these trucks. YOU MUST USE GE TYPE II SILICONE!
Type I is the most common in home supply stores and smells like vinegar. It uses an acid to speed up drying. DO NOT USE TYPE I SILICONE!!!!!
Type II does not use acid but will take a while to dry.
A Ford body man told me about it and said Type I can cause corrosion when in contact with bare aluminum in these trucks (such as exposed metal edges when you drill through a panel). Once the corrosion starts, you cannot stop it.
He also suggested using a new sharp drill/hole saw, clean up the cut very well and apply silicone to the item being put through the hole and to the edges of the cut.
I was having to drill through the front panel of my truck's bed to put in snaps. I had to hunt down aluminum rivets, used steel snaps with plastic standoff to keep from making contact with the body and use Type II silicone in the hole and around the rivets. So far, no visible issues.
There is also a Special Vehicle Engineering Advisory QVM: Q-22 about attaching items to the body. I've attached it for anyone to read. The warning about RTV silicone is at the bottom of the second page. The tech I spoke to said Type II is the only silicone he can use on Ford's aluminum bodies.
Hope this helps.
Type I is the most common in home supply stores and smells like vinegar. It uses an acid to speed up drying. DO NOT USE TYPE I SILICONE!!!!!
Type II does not use acid but will take a while to dry.
A Ford body man told me about it and said Type I can cause corrosion when in contact with bare aluminum in these trucks (such as exposed metal edges when you drill through a panel). Once the corrosion starts, you cannot stop it.
He also suggested using a new sharp drill/hole saw, clean up the cut very well and apply silicone to the item being put through the hole and to the edges of the cut.
I was having to drill through the front panel of my truck's bed to put in snaps. I had to hunt down aluminum rivets, used steel snaps with plastic standoff to keep from making contact with the body and use Type II silicone in the hole and around the rivets. So far, no visible issues.
There is also a Special Vehicle Engineering Advisory QVM: Q-22 about attaching items to the body. I've attached it for anyone to read. The warning about RTV silicone is at the bottom of the second page. The tech I spoke to said Type II is the only silicone he can use on Ford's aluminum bodies.
Hope this helps.
10-27-2017, 11:50 AM
#19