I have edited the "How to retrieve trouble codes" in the how to section to explain the engine running test. Do this test when possible.

 

Thanks Sean. Since I have the 5.8 it appears I just have the WOT test to do for the KOER test.

I found two sites that had info on the tests and codes that I downloaded and created a single pdfs for each site, I can send if desired - (web links follow).

Fordfuelinjection.com (2 & 3 Digit Self-Test Codes) breaks them out by KOEO, CM & KOER

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13 - General instructions and pictures

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=46 - Codes 33-58

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=47 - Codes 59-74
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=48 - Codes 75-99
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=45

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=50 - Codes 172-223
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=49 - Codes 224-525

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=51 - Codes 526-586

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=52 - Codes 587-656
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=53 - Codes 657-998

Corral - the late model Mustang web - EEC-IV Testing

http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenan...-koeokoer.html - KOEO & KOER test procedure

 

I had a similar diagnostic reading on the Ranger that I just traded in for my F-150, and in speaking with a friend of mine who works as a mechanic, this code is often caused by a flaw in the computer firmware rather than an actual failure of hardware in the exhaust system. He told me to partially remove the EGR Valve, spray some cleaner in there and then advance the throttle. If there is anything gumming it up in there, you're working to knock it loose. But the real indicator that the EGR valve is failing, he said was that fuel economy would REALLY suffer. If you're still getting reasonable mileage (for that motor), then you've probably looking at a ghost code.

 

EGR valve is brand spanking new and all of those codes have gone away. I am going to press on with trying to get the leak in the exhuaust system (I hope) taken care of and then pursue the codes. Fortunately this is my vehicle to haul stuff with so I don't need it every day.

In the mean time.....

Sidelined with my daughter's Jeep that out of the blue would start, not start, and then died after running down the street (1st time). Replaced Crank Position Sensor and all is running well on that vehicle now - no codes showing up either.

Have another Jeep (youngest son) to replace a burnt valve on.

They are learning a lot about buying used vehicles and the baggage that comes with them.

Will get to my truck after I have the Jeeps all fixed up - I have other ways to get around where as they are kind of stuck.

 

I guess it is about time for an update. Only drove the truck about 750 miles or so over the last year and it was running well enough to get by. CEL still on after driving about 15 minutes.

Had the truck in to the local Ford dealer for the Cruise Control recall resolution so i asked them to look for the cause of the CEL since my emissions test was in a couple weeks. They were not emissions certified but took a look and told me a couple of things - only codes 171 (lean bank 1) and 452 (VSS) were present. Did a look around and found the intake manifold bolts (corner towards driver) was backed out, exhaust manifold was warped, and that the fuel filter appeared to be very old. Tech on site has a 93 and mentioned that his lean bank 1 disappeared after replacing the fuel filter. Also have low oil pressure - varies as I drive. Recommended that I put 15-40 in to help the engine.

Went and replaced the filter - took a long time since one side wouldn't release. Engine ran smoother afterwards. Tried to tighten the intake manifold bolt - doesn't want to sit down the last 1/4 inch or so.

Brought it in for emissions - HC (500+) and CO (~4) real high but only at idle, at 25 mph on rollers the numbers were all good. Brought it to a certified emissions tech that I know through my son and we worked about an hour on it after hours. Sensors all seemed to be working properly, vacuum hoses were good, intake manifold not leaking. Pretty soon we had one of the older techs come by and ask an old school question - Tune up? Everything had been done in except checking the timing. Within 5 minutes emissions were almost spotless - appeared to be about 5-10 degrees off of recommended timing. Of course the emissions in the shop weren't reflected the same at the DMV inspection station but they were much better. Enough data to get a waiver for this year ... now to finish the task.

Not sure of the code status but things are looking much, much better at this point.