atxval

I would say give it a freon refill and test for leaks. I believe they make a dye that you can add to the system that will show a leak. I have never done it myself so I'm sure some the other folks with AC experience will chime in.

As for the heater I would check the hoses to see if they sprung a leak...how's the coolant level? Coolant is essential part of the heating system. It also could be possible the heater core may need to be replaced. Is there any coolant leaks front passenger side inside or outside the cab by the firewall?

You said the vehicle sat around so check for any brittle or bulging hoses and replace those hoses.

wrvond

Not too sure what you mean when you say the passenger air bag circuit is open, but when a circuit is open, it means that wires are not connected. Open, or disconnected wires will not drain a battery since current cannot travel across air. However, if you have loose wires dangling, make sure to insulate them so they don't ground out. Power leads that touch metal, can drain your battery, blow fuses, or even start a fire in some cases.

Heater - the easiest to fix and this time of year, most important.
1. ensure the radiator is full - "cooling system" is a misnomer. A more accurate name would be "temperature management system". As the engine heats up, the thermostat is closed, this holds the (we'll call it water here) water in the engine block until it gets hot (usually around 185 degrees). Once the water gets hot, the thermostat opens, and the water pump forces the water into the radiator. Air passing through the radiator fins cools the water down, and it returns to the engine block through the other hose. Now, there are two smaller hoses that enter and exit the firewall, one of which is connected to the water pump and the other enters the engine block. So, that same water that is being pumped through the radiator is also being pumped through the heater core (which looks kind of like a small radiator too). If the radiator is not full, hot water is not going to be consistantly pumped through the heater, either, so no hot air.
2. with the warmed up engine running, and heater set on full hot, carefully touch the two heater hoses. They should both be hot. If one is hot and the other cold, you may have a plugged heater core.
3. your temperature control should be cable controlled, so when you slide the control lever back and forth, you should feel some resistance, maybe even hear it operating the valve under the dash on the passenger side. If it moves very easily back and forth, your cable may be broken and the temperature control valve in the closed position. This would lead to a no heat condition as well. If the temperature control appears to be working, and you have one hot and one cold hose, then the heater core is most likely clogged. Refer to earlier post on unclogging it.

The air conditioner is, IMHO, just about the most difficult thing to work on. There is a product that contains refrigerant and flourescent dye. It's supposed to show where leaks are, but I've never successfully used it. I let the pros handle A/C issues. Especially since there are pressurized toxic gases involved.

13Harleyfan

Let's keep it simple, to fill the cooling system up-start with a cold engine and take the radiator cap off (replace it if it looks old) start the truck up and keep the radiator full, as the engine heats up as stated before the thermostat should open, the top hose will start getting warm and you should see the liquid flowing in the radiator and that water should be getting hot also, turn your heater on and as the liquid level drops down keep the radiator full. Caution, do not stand over the radiator, it could push out some water which will be very hot. The heater core is the highest point in the cooling system and if it's not on when filling it creates an air pocket which doesn't allow the heater core to get hot. Both hoses going to the heater should be hot to the touch, if only one is the core might be plugged and require service. Worry about the A.C. system after the weather gets warmer. Quite possible it may just be a little low on freon and not require a lot of money to fix.

Wanted33

Welcome to the froum Ambear. It's a good Woman that would help her hubby with his truck. As far as the starting problem, I would go back and check to make sure everything is uptight and in the groove. If it started before, and the only thing that changes it replacing the fuse box I would venture to guess a wire is loose or not maing a good connection.

Good luck, as said electrical problems are aggravating.

Ambear136

Ok well guys after all day flushing and flushing I finally got the water to come out semi clear. Just put antifreeze and distiller water back in and I am running the truck. No heat yet. I checked the hoses both are hot to the touch which is a good sign?? Here's crossing my fingers tomorrow is a better day

Branhutto

Are you still having problems starting. I had similar problems. Had to replace the starter solenoid and ground cable.

djfllmn

iTrader: (1)

check the heater control valve...sometimes they freeze up

mrgooden

Just 2 cents on the heat.. If both hoses are hot and the blower is working well. The air door may not be opening for the heater core.

Welcome aboard Ambear, My daughters Druid Tank on World of Warcraft has the same name.

Richard

wrvond

If both are hot, then the heater itself is working just fine. The other **** on your control panel is now the problem. That is the one that changes from heater to vents to defrost. Does it have some kind of resistance when you move it, or does it feel like it is not attached to anything. Of course, I'm guessing that it is cable controlled. I am not familiar enough with your model/year to know for certain. It could be an electric motor that moves the distribution door. If so, that might not be working.

Ambear136

I am no longer having problems starting it . I will def look into the starter if it acts up again. Thank you