1995 F-150 won't start
05-29-2008, 11:10 PM
#21
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That was 3 flashes, short pause, 3 flashes,long pause, 1 quick flash, long pause. Without going into a long explanation the first codes are KOEO and the second are continuous. Try once more and give lots of time for all codes to display.Disconnect jumper wire with key off and try to start a few more times first. Then do the test again.The quick flash is the separator between KOEO and continuous. This threw me off the first time I ever read codes. You are saying this is code 33 which isn't helpful to your immediate problem. Try again and we'll talk more. Also, I have to share right now so give me about 15 minutes and i'll chase my girlfriend off the computer again.
Could a bad EGR valve cause this problem?
Last edited by One Brown; 05-29-2008 at 11:17 PM. Reason: additional ?
05-29-2008, 11:54 PM
#22
Ok, at least you know how to check computer codes now. Code 33 is EGR valve opening not detected. This doesn't mean that anything is wrong with the EGR though. It could be the EGR or the sensor or the wiring to the sensor, but this won't keep it from starting. But on my truck I got this code and it turned out to be a power supply problem because this fuse also controlled other main computer functions. Check all fuses, check the main connection at the starter relay and the fusible links. Mine would try to start but the main connection at the relay was corroded enough to not let enough voltage to the computer. Also check your ground. Check for power at the coil. I also had some main wiring splices corrode and come apart in the harness. This splice went to the coil, EGR and distributor. Electrical problems suck! Good luck and don't let this intimidate you. I'm sure you can handle it. Keep me posted.
05-29-2008, 11:59 PM
#23
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Thanks alot for your help! There was one other time that something like this happened and it ended up being the damn battery cable. I checked them both, didn't see any corrosion and neither was loose.
05-30-2008, 08:01 AM
#25
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Sorry I've missed out on all the fun. Work at a golf course, early start and go home. Lets go back and make sure the rotor turns. If it does then continue finding the no spark problem. Remove dist cap, lay it off to the side to expose view of rotor, turn engine over with key, does it turn? If it does, great! Now make sure its in time. Turn engine over by hand and stop when timing marks are aligned. Does rotor point to #1 or #6 tower? #1 will be marked (if original Ford cap was purchased). #1 and #6 are across from each other, 180 degrees apart. Get back to me.
05-30-2008, 08:49 AM
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me thinks it could be module in distribtor, thats what my 95 needed when i lost spark.
25 bucks for part, a little tricky to install but not bad
its like a crank sensor/trigger coil.
let me know if ya need more help
25 bucks for part, a little tricky to install but not bad
its like a crank sensor/trigger coil.
let me know if ya need more help
05-30-2008, 06:44 PM
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How did you get the thing out. Had the distributor out of track today and was trying to get the thing out, is it pressed in somehow? Took 2 pins out of lower shaft could slide gear off.
Last edited by One Brown; 05-30-2008 at 06:47 PM. Reason: additional ?
05-30-2008, 06:45 PM
#28
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Sorry I've missed out on all the fun. Work at a golf course, early start and go home. Lets go back and make sure the rotor turns. If it does then continue finding the no spark problem. Remove dist cap, lay it off to the side to expose view of rotor, turn engine over with key, does it turn? If it does, great! Now make sure its in time. Turn engine over by hand and stop when timing marks are aligned. Does rotor point to #1 or #6 tower? #1 will be marked (if original Ford cap was purchased). #1 and #6 are across from each other, 180 degrees apart. Get back to me.
05-30-2008, 06:45 PM
#29
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Ok, at least you know how to check computer codes now. Code 33 is EGR valve opening not detected. This doesn't mean that anything is wrong with the EGR though. It could be the EGR or the sensor or the wiring to the sensor, but this won't keep it from starting. But on my truck I got this code and it turned out to be a power supply problem because this fuse also controlled other main computer functions. Check all fuses, check the main connection at the starter relay and the fusible links. Mine would try to start but the main connection at the relay was corroded enough to not let enough voltage to the computer. Also check your ground. Check for power at the coil. I also had some main wiring splices corrode and come apart in the harness. This splice went to the coil, EGR and distributor. Electrical problems suck! Good luck and don't let this intimidate you. I'm sure you can handle it. Keep me posted.
05-30-2008, 09:36 PM
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i just marked all parts on distrb and took off hold down bolt and clamp and yanked her out.
after that i took off that metal toothed cap, the relucter ring i think?
then i marked the postion of gear and collar on shaft end, mark em good now!!
then i pushed two roll pins out one for gear and one for collar.
carefully pressed gear and collar off, then pulled shaft out of distrb housing.
replaced pick up assy and put shaft back into housing,pressed collar on "this one you can line up,and turn on shaft easy" put pin in.
then press gear on " this one is tight and got to get her lined up good to meet hole for pin, cant and should not try to turn this gear while on shaft!!
if ya miss hole try again.
good luck
bryan
after that i took off that metal toothed cap, the relucter ring i think?
then i marked the postion of gear and collar on shaft end, mark em good now!!
then i pushed two roll pins out one for gear and one for collar.
carefully pressed gear and collar off, then pulled shaft out of distrb housing.
replaced pick up assy and put shaft back into housing,pressed collar on "this one you can line up,and turn on shaft easy" put pin in.
then press gear on " this one is tight and got to get her lined up good to meet hole for pin, cant and should not try to turn this gear while on shaft!!
if ya miss hole try again.
good luck
bryan
