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Old 08-29-2012, 05:10 PM
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can this be applied by had or by buffer?
Old 08-30-2012, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Merlin
NOTE Be sure and prep your paint first.

If you have fine scratches and swirls...
after Z-2 you will have shiny scratches and swirls!
Zaino Z-2 w/ZFX is applied and removed by hand.

It can be layered...after the first 3 coats wait 12 hours and apply 3 more coats etc.
Old 08-30-2012, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Merlin

Zaino Z-2 w/ZFX is applied and removed by hand.

It can be layered...after the first 3 coats wait 12 hours and apply 3 more coats etc.
sorry brother im fairly new to this how do you "prep" your paint i usually wash it by Hand and then dry it off completely with some towels then start waxing I usually do 2 coats and then take a nice spray wax and go over everything am I doing I wrong what's your process you seem to be a little bit of a wax guru
Old 08-30-2012, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by tugs90
...how do you "prep" your paint
Preparation before applying the Last Step Product (LSP- wax/sealant) is the key!

After you wash you truck put your hand in a baggie and feel the paint.
Does it feel gritty? Can you feel small particles? If so it needs cleaning.



This can be done with a clay bar or CarPro Iron X Iron Remover and/or both.
Once the paint is clean it should feel perfectly smooth with the baggie test.



Do you swirls and fine scratches in your paint? Look at your paint in direct sun ight. If so, it needs paint correction first.



Once your paint is cleaned and polished then (and only then) you can apply the final LSP.



Old 08-30-2012, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Merlin

Preparation before applying the Last Step Product (LSP- wax/sealant) is the key!

After you wash you truck put your hand in a baggie and feel the paint.
Does it feel gritty? Can you feel small particles? If so it needs cleaning.

This can be done with a clay bar or CarPro Iron X Iron Remover and/or both.
Once the paint is clean it should feel perfectly smooth with the baggie test.

Do you swirls and fine scratches in your paint? Look at your paint in direct sun ight. If so, it needs paint correction first.

Once your paint is cleaned and polished then (and only then) you can apply the final LSP.
I'm sorry paint correction is what? a product and I wish my paint looked like that

but damn your paint is like glass I wish I could get mine like that I'm like a clean truck fanatic and i can't get my truck looking that good


I've also clay bared my truck before it felt super smooth but I also only had time to spray wax it after so it didn't hold true if you have time could you go through a step by step on how you give your paint that nice super clean wet paint look I would greatly appreciate it I'm in no rush I just had a route canal and two crowns removed so I'm just trying to function today
Attached Thumbnails Recommend Wax Products?-image-411797047.jpg  

Last edited by 2003XLT; 08-30-2012 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by tugs90
I'm sorry paint correction is what? a product and I wish my paint looked like that
Paint correction is the skill, art and science of using a buffer to polish paint.
This involves knowing the 4 P's - Paint, Pads, Polish and Process

From the looks of your picture I'd say your paint is dull and oxidized.
...and thank you I enjoy doing "detailing". Detailing is not a wash and wax!
Old 08-30-2012, 08:21 AM
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I'm an inspiring detailer lol ive never owned a car I didn't make my own this is my 95 civic that's purely all custom and I use mothers everything on this and I really enjoy making my cars and trucks look as they run haha I'm a master Honda tech and I just started getting into the detailing part my civic looks so nice because it's all my custom body work and fresh paint and I just kept up with it the motor, trans, interior, all of it is my touch but I am tryin to bring back the paint in my truck to WOW like yours haha if that makes sense I don't own a buffer but there cheap enough I buy I also don't know anything really about the different pads or which waxes to use so any insight you could give me would be greatly appreciated... disregard the first picture I put it up there and I didn't know how to take it down
Attached Thumbnails Recommend Wax Products?-image-1363089573.jpg   Recommend Wax Products?-image-2076403798.jpg   Recommend Wax Products?-image-1196619657.jpg   Recommend Wax Products?-image-2484091095.jpg  
Old 08-30-2012, 10:26 AM
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Supplies to get you started.

Machine:
There are quite a few different machines and machine types on the market.
I start I'd use a Dual Action (DA) Griots Garage 6 inch Random Orbital Polisher.



Backing Plate:
I'd suggest a Meguiars Mirror Glaze W67DA G110 DA Polisher 5 inch Backing Plate
This will work with both the Megs 5.5" DA microfiber discs and Lake Country pads.

Pads:
I have achieved better control and better results with the 5" plate and 5.5" pads.
I'd start with six Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Foam Flat Pads 2) Orange 2) White 1) Black 1) Blue

Polish:
I'm a big fan of of the "Use the least aggressive method first" procedure.
This means use the least aggressive polish and pad combination to get the job done.
That being said There are a few aggressive products out there to help make short work.

Step 1
Meguiars M105 is an aggressive product but it also has "issues". Quick drying splatter etc.
To start I might suggest Meguiars Ultimate Compound. Almost the cut of M105 and easier.
Megs UC is available at most local auto parts stores. UC has a longer work time than M105.

Step 2
Now that correction has been completed. M105 and/or Megs UC leaves a matte finish.
You will want to polish with a finer polish to brighten and add a glossy shine to your paint.
For this I may suggest Megs M205 or Megs Ultimate Polish. It needs one or two section passes

Process:
This is where the the skill, art and science of polishing paint come into play.

Getting a feel for the polisher...
I personally like to remove the handle on the GG 6" and place my hand on the top for control.
To start, use blue painters tape to create a square section on your paint no larger than 24"x24"

With the 5" backing plate installed attach a 5.5" LC pad and M205 or Megs Ultimate Polish
Prime the pad so the entire surface has polish product in it then add 4 dime sized drops on top.
Place the polisher/pad on the paint. Do NOT turn ON/OFF the polisher when it's not on the paint.

Machine speed - This is the Orbits Per Minute (OPM). For finishing (to learn) use speed 4-5.
Pressure - Use 10-15lbs of pressure on the top of the machine to insure you have good contact.
Arm Speed - Do not move the polisher back and forth in a quick motion. Go about 1" per second.

Make straight straight lines on the paint up and back overlapping slightly on each stroke.
Keep the pad FLAT on the paint surface at all times! Do not tilt the polisher when working.
Once you have gone up and back on the 24"x24" section then go back and forth, overlap etc.
This is called a section pass. To obtain a "show car" finish do 4-5 section passes each time.



Clean the section and observe the results.
When I have completed a section pass I like to use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or Mineral Spirits.
My personal favorite is Menzerna's Top Inspection. This removes any remaining polish from the paint.
Repeat polishing a section as needed until you are swirls free and have achieved a shiny gloss.

Short Product List:
1) Griots Garage 6 inch Random Orbital Polisher
1) Meguiars Mirror Glaze W67DA G110 DA Polisher 5 inch Backing Plate
6) Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Foam Flat Pads 2) Orange 2) White 1) Black 1) Blue
1) Meguiars Ultimate Compound
1) Meguiars Ultimate Polish or M205
1) Painter's Tape
1) IPA, Mineral Spirits or Menzerna's Top Inspection

That's the short version of polishing paint...there's much more...
Bottom Line: Don't be afraid. I can teach someone "how-to use a DA" in about 10 minutes.


Now the proper way to wash you vehicle with the "Two Bucket Method" is another thread.

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Old 08-30-2012, 10:31 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Merlin
Supplies to get you started.

Machine:
There are quite a few different machines and machine types on the market.
I start I'd use a Dual Action (DA) Griots Garage 6 inch Random Orbital Polisher.

Backing Plate:
I'd suggest a Meguiars Mirror Glaze W67DA G110 DA Polisher 5 inch Backing Plate
This will work with both the Megs 5.5" DA microfiber discs and Lake Country pads.

Pads:
I have achieved better control and better results with the 5" plate and 5.5" pads.
I'd start with six Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Foam Flat Pads 2) Orange 2) White 1) Black 1) Blue

Polish:
I'm a big fan of of the "Use the least aggressive method first" procedure.
This means use the least aggressive polish and pad combination to get the job done.
That being said There are a few aggressive products out there to help make short work.

Step 1
Meguiars M105 is an aggressive product but it also has "issues". Quick drying splatter etc.
To start I might suggest Meguiars Ultimate Compound. Almost the cut of M105 and easier.
Megs UC is available at most local auto parts stores. UC has a longer work time than M105.

Step 2
Now that correction has been completed. M105 and/or Megs UC leaves a matte finish.
You will want to polish with a finer polish to brighten and add a glossy shine to your paint.
For this I may suggest Megs M205 or Megs Ultimate Polish. It needs one or two section passes

Process:
This is where the the skill, art and science of polishing paint come into play.

Getting a feel for the polisher...
I personally like to remove the handle on the GG 6" and place my hand on the top for control.
To start, use blue painters tape to create a square section on your paint no larger than 24"x24"

With the 5" backing plate installed attach a 5.5" LC pad and M205 or Megs Ultimate Polish
Prime the pad so the entire surface has polish product in it then add 4 dime sized drops on top.
Place the polisher/pad on the paint. Do NOT turn ON/OFF the polisher when it's not on the paint.

Machine speed - This is the Orbits Per Minute (OPM). For finishing (to learn) use speed 4-5.
Pressure - Use 10-15lbs of pressure on the top of the machine to insure you have good contact.
Arm Speed - Do not move the polisher back and forth in a quick motion. Go about 1" per second.

Make straight straight lines on the paint up and back overlapping slightly on each stroke.
Keep the pad FLAT on the paint surface at all times! Do not tilt the polisher when working.
Once you have gone up and back on the 24"x24" section then go back and forth, overlap etc.
This is called a section pass. To obtain a "show car" finish do 4-5 section passes each time.

Clean the section and observe the results.
When I have completed a section pass I like to use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or Mineral Spirits.
My personal favorite is Menzerna's Top Inspection. This removes any remaining polish from the paint.
Repeat polishing a section as needed until you are swirls free and have achieved a shiny gloss.

Short Product List:
1) Griots Garage 6 inch Random Orbital Polisher
1) Meguiars Mirror Glaze W67DA G110 DA Polisher 5 inch Backing Plate
6) Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Foam Flat Pads 2) Orange 2) White 1) Black 1) Blue
1) Meguiars Ultimate Compound
1) Meguiars Ultimate Polish or M205
1) Painter's Tape
1) IPA, Mineral Spirits or Menzerna's Top Inspection

That's the short version of polishing paint...there's much more...
Bottom Line: Don't be afraid. I can teach someone "how-to use a DA" in about 10 minutes.

Now the proper way to wash you vehicle with the "Two Bucket Method" is another thread.
haha makes me want a lesson
Old 08-30-2012, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tugs90
...makes me want a lesson
No Prob...I enjoy it...



I see a buffer in your future...



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