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2006 F-150 Spark Plug Issue?

Old 02-23-2017, 09:26 PM
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Default 2006 F-150 Spark Plug Issue?

Hey Folks, Newbie here!! Well, I have run into the Spark plug replacement issue from hell. My 2006 F-150 XLT 4x4 started idling rough when coming to a stop. Finally the check engine light popped on. Took it to my mechanic and he pulled the codes and recommended a tune-up. The truck is at 89,000 which I knew was over the recommended 60,000 but hey if it ain't broke don't fix it. Well, my mechanic called me yesterday to inform me that he broke 3 out of the 8 plugs. He was able to extract 2 of 'em but the 3rd is stuck like Chuck in the #8 cylinder. Well, this morning I get another call from my mech. and this time he tells me that he drilled out the center got the extractor to finally bite. He got it to turn 4 times and then it unraveled and the shaft fell into the cylinder and is resting on the piston. YEA!!!! Looks like the head has to come off which he told me was a 21 hour job....What??? Anyway, once my bank account is drained and the motor is running, my main concern is trash in the motor and because of that, the longevity of said motor... Should I toss the truck while it still has some value to get a new/newer truck or will this one be fine? I'm torn because I really like this truck and I was hoping to get another ten years outa it... Yes, I do keep my trucks a long time, like the 1989 Toyota king cab 4x4 with 178K that I bought in '90 that is sitting in my driveway. Ford needs to step up it's game. This is the second Ford vehicle I have owned that has given me issues. The first was a messed up tranny that only had 82K miles on it. Thanks for the inputs and replies. RB

Last edited by Regal Beagle; 02-23-2017 at 09:32 PM.
Old 02-24-2017, 08:01 AM
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If the head gets pulled and he cleans everything out.. you should be good to go.
Old 02-24-2017, 08:23 AM
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You said the motor was running, I hope the h*ll the mechanic or you didnt start it with parts [trash ] in the cylinder.
Sorry I misread the post with head removed and trash removed engine should be fine.

Last edited by bubbabud; 02-24-2017 at 08:42 AM.
Old 02-25-2017, 06:10 AM
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I would get a shop vac, and attach a small hose, and stick it down that cylinder, to suck out the junk. Have an inspection camera on hand, to see inside, to make sure EVERYTHING is out of there.


Old 02-25-2017, 08:24 AM
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Thanks Folks! for the replies... I was wondering if there was anyway to get a magnet down into the cylinder to extract the shaft??? Just a thought. As far as any other trash like the ceramic, rust, metal shavings, etc... I thought about the shop vac. I know that he has an inspection camera because he told me that's what he used to see the shaft on top of the piston... heck you could even take a bent tube extension on a compressed air gun a blow most of the crud out... I don't see the need to tear into the motor to remove either the shaft or the crud.. except that he'll make more $$ off of me... He was suppose to call me on Friday to give me an update but didn't. Why do I have this feeling I am getting screwed....
Old 02-26-2017, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Regal Beagle
Thanks Folks! for the replies... I was wondering if there was anyway to get a magnet down into the cylinder to extract the shaft??? Just a thought. As far as any other trash like the ceramic, rust, metal shavings, etc... I thought about the shop vac. I know that he has an inspection camera because he told me that's what he used to see the shaft on top of the piston... heck you could even take a bent tube extension on a compressed air gun a blow most of the crud out... I don't see the need to tear into the motor to remove either the shaft or the crud.. except that he'll make more $$ off of me... He was suppose to call me on Friday to give me an update but didn't. Why do I have this feeling I am getting screwed....
I would take the head off too if I was your mechanic. There is a risk on his park if he doesn't take the head off. If there is any debris in the engine and it cause damage to your engine and you have an engine failure the shop would have to eat the price of a new engine. You are not being screwed they are doing the job the right way.
If I was you I would try to get the shop to work a deal out with you on the labor.


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