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Yeah, total portability. Each ramp has wheels on one end so you can take them anywhere you need. Just slide them in the box and roll. I decided my old *** ain't going anywhere with them cept maybe the carport so I went 110v.
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Two things; finally installed my Amp Research Bed Extender. I had one on my 2000 and for me it's an invaluable accessory, especially for hauling motorcycles. I used the "no drill" mounting kit and for me it's worth the extra money. It was simple to install and uses the holes in the rear of the bed for mounting.
I also began installation of the BedBuddy to prevent my motorcycles from bowing the front of the bed. I encountered a problem however, which is that there's just not enough room between the cab and the bed to get any sort of wrench in order to install washers or even to start the nuts. I wanted to use stainless fasteners for obvious reasons which means I can't even use a magnet to try to get the fasteners started.
All I need is about an inch of clearance to be able to get the washers and nuts started. How hard is it to move the bed back temporarily? I've never even thought about how much work is required.
My other options are longer bolts or to use mushroom "well nuts." I'm not crazy about the latter as my experience with them is that they're not very secure.
Two things; finally installed my Amp Research Bed Extender. I had one on my 2000 and for me it's an invaluable accessory, especially for hauling motorcycles. I used the "no drill" mounting kit and for me it's worth the extra money. It was simple to install and uses the holes in the rear of the bed for mounting.
I also began installation of the BedBuddy to prevent my motorcycles from bowing the front of the bed. I encountered a problem however, which is that there's just not enough room between the cab and the bed to get any sort of wrench in order to install washers or even to start the nuts. I wanted to use stainless fasteners for obvious reasons which means I can't even use a magnet to try to get the fasteners started.
All I need is about an inch of clearance to be able to get the washers and nuts started. How hard is it to move the bed back temporarily? I've never even thought about how much work is required.
My other options are longer bolts or to use mushroom "well nuts." I'm not crazy about the latter as my experience with them is that they're not very secure.
Thoughts?
-the ChiefGearhead
What about taking a yard stick, and using rubber cement or silicone to hold the nut and washer to it, while you start the bolt thru the hole into them.
You could then duct tape the wrench to the yard stick and tighten it with an impact, and not really need to hold much force on the nut if you have a lock washer.
Two things; finally installed my Amp Research Bed Extender. I had one on my 2000 and for me it's an invaluable accessory, especially for hauling motorcycles. I used the "no drill" mounting kit and for me it's worth the extra money. It was simple to install and uses the holes in the rear of the bed for mounting.
I also began installation of the BedBuddy to prevent my motorcycles from bowing the front of the bed. I encountered a problem however, which is that there's just not enough room between the cab and the bed to get any sort of wrench in order to install washers or even to start the nuts. I wanted to use stainless fasteners for obvious reasons which means I can't even use a magnet to try to get the fasteners started.
All I need is about an inch of clearance to be able to get the washers and nuts started. How hard is it to move the bed back temporarily? I've never even thought about how much work is required.
My other options are longer bolts or to use mushroom "well nuts." I'm not crazy about the latter as my experience with them is that they're not very secure.
Thoughts?
-the ChiefGearhead
I mounted a tool box against the cab-end of my 2000 GMC and had the same issues. I found an old 9/16 wrench at a yard sale, cut off the open end of the wrench and welded a 2' piece of threaded rod to it. Used a piece of masking tape to hold the nut in the box-end while I positioned it. Worked like a charm. I might still even have that custom wrench somewhere out in my storage shed
Necessity is the mother of invention! Part of the problem is that there’s a big offset from the part of the bed where the hole is drilled and the top part where the lip is....it’s almost 2” which makes it very hard to get a tool back there, much less even see where the bolt is.
My solution may be to get longer bolts which offends my aesthetic sensibility but might give me a better chance of getting the washers on and the but threaded.
-the ChiefGearhead
Originally Posted by JoeinGa
I mounted a tool box against the cab-end of my 2000 GMC and had the same issues. I found an old 9/16 wrench at a yard sale, cut off the open end of the wrench and welded a 2' piece of threaded rod to it. Used a piece of masking tape to hold the nut in the box-end while I positioned it. Worked like a charm. I might still even have that custom wrench somewhere out in my storage shed
Very creative thinking! I thought about such a solution but as mentioned below, the offset makes any straight tool useless. You’re right that once the washers and nut are on, whipping them on with an impact wrench should be simple. I did get one started but minus a lock washer, just by “whipping it” with a small rachet handle and pulling the brace and nut against the body until it cinched down.
-the ChiefGearhead
Originally Posted by Phil48315
What about taking a yard stick, and using rubber cement or silicone to hold the nut and washer to it, while you start the bolt thru the hole into them.
You could then duct tape the wrench to the yard stick and tighten it with an impact, and not really need to hold much force on the nut if you have a lock washer.
05-22-2019, 09:49 PM
