TRS HID PROJECTOR RETROFIT: Installation thread
08-31-2011, 01:40 PM
#31
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Look for a recessed area in the back I believe it is the lower section near the turn signal. Maybe someone that has their lights off could confirm this. It is a screw with a 9/32 head on it. I do not think a 3/8 drive socket and extension will get into the whole. I used 1/4 inch drive.
08-31-2011, 01:50 PM
#32
You don't have to cut the reflector. You will need to dermal the bulb socket down enough for the rear threaded part of the projector to stick through so the nut will screw on. Tape up the hole from the front. I would also cover the front of the reflector to keep dust out. It is a bitch to get it off the reflector without scratching it. I didn't cover the front, cleaning it up afterwards took some time.
08-31-2011, 02:07 PM
#33
Master Gunner
How well does this retrofit hold up to severe off road driving?
I've read through all the posts and the gist I get is that the projector housing is secured via one large nut, and depending upon the surface that its tightened against, may not provide the most stable platform to withstand harsh bumps and vibration.
I just installed some Eagle Eyes projectors and the light intensity is on par with OEM, albeit more directed and not "scattered" as much as the OEM reflector. I'm not sure if I should cut out the existing projectors to pop in HID projectors, or just stick an HID bulb since it's already using a projector housing (though the cut-off will not be same) to ensure I get the strongest, stable lighting platform that won't go out of alignment or fall apart on any trail running.
I've read through all the posts and the gist I get is that the projector housing is secured via one large nut, and depending upon the surface that its tightened against, may not provide the most stable platform to withstand harsh bumps and vibration.
I just installed some Eagle Eyes projectors and the light intensity is on par with OEM, albeit more directed and not "scattered" as much as the OEM reflector. I'm not sure if I should cut out the existing projectors to pop in HID projectors, or just stick an HID bulb since it's already using a projector housing (though the cut-off will not be same) to ensure I get the strongest, stable lighting platform that won't go out of alignment or fall apart on any trail running.
Last edited by Augster; 08-31-2011 at 02:14 PM.
08-31-2011, 02:09 PM
#34
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08-31-2011, 02:21 PM
#35
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I would not trust it for hard off road use. Driving off the pavement bouncing up a rough trail to take a photo or something I wouldn't worry about. Mashing the go pedal and launching the truck would be a different story.
Best would be to check with TRS for their experience.
Best would be to check with TRS for their experience.
How well does this retrofit hold up to severe off road driving?
I've read through all the posts and the gist I get is that the projector housing is secured via one large nut, and depending upon the surface that its tightened against, may not provide the most stable platform to withstand harsh bumps and vibration.
I've read through all the posts and the gist I get is that the projector housing is secured via one large nut, and depending upon the surface that its tightened against, may not provide the most stable platform to withstand harsh bumps and vibration.
08-31-2011, 03:09 PM
#36
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What I used
Here is what I used to open the light. I sharpened the edges slightly.
Use at your own risk. I have no idea how well this adhesive will hold up for our purposes. This is the adhesive I used to secure the nut and shaft to the socket area of the stock reflector. I've used this on the broken case of a blower for drying cars which vibrates considerably and it has held up very well.. It sticks to smooth surfaces without the need to scuff it up first to promote adhesion. Scuffing would improve the bond.
Use at your own risk. I have no idea how well this adhesive will hold up for our purposes. This is the adhesive I used to secure the nut and shaft to the socket area of the stock reflector. I've used this on the broken case of a blower for drying cars which vibrates considerably and it has held up very well.. It sticks to smooth surfaces without the need to scuff it up first to promote adhesion. Scuffing would improve the bond.
Last edited by filterking; 08-31-2011 at 03:22 PM. Reason: clear it up a bit
but it works heck yea.
08-31-2011, 05:44 PM
#40
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That is what I wish I had done. I started to miss my truck. I only have 550 or so on it.
Having a spare set takes the pressure off in more ways than one. I wish there was an aftermarket alternative to the single light OEM housings. All I have seen are quad setups in the aftermarket. The aftermarket may be much easier to get apart. I think this is the first time I ever bitched about something too well put together.
Having a spare set takes the pressure off in more ways than one. I wish there was an aftermarket alternative to the single light OEM housings. All I have seen are quad setups in the aftermarket. The aftermarket may be much easier to get apart. I think this is the first time I ever bitched about something too well put together.