mSaLL150

Its a bitch, guys. Just keep fighting it. Put it in the oven longer. Maybe 12 minutes at 230 or so. You will have to put it back in to warm it up again and keep going at it. Start in the upper corner until its separated, then work your way around pulling it apart. You'll get it, its a battle worth winning!

Yes you have to manually adjust them, but its VERY easy and I will explain the process. I will post what I have of the guide later today, I don't have pictures from the aiming process but I can walk you through it with typing.

filterking

I have my projectors mounted, they worked fine on the bench.
When I installed lights back on the truck I only get the left light. Swapped everything out to the right from the left still only have the left light. Re-pinned the wiring as per the instructions that came with the harness still the same problem. Best I can tell all hardware is functioning. Seems to be wiring.

UPDATE:

The orange and the blue wire on the 9008 connector on the TRS harness (this is the headlight connector to the harness) needs to be swapped a note is included with the harness that this may be necessary. If you still are having problems swap the orange and black wires going into the ballast from the harness. It took me a long time to figure this out. Doesn't make sense to me that this would be needed, but it's what worked. I hoped this saves someone the hours of time I spent in figuring this out. I think my harness may have be assembled incorrectly.

filterking

A few observations doing the install. Some I already knew or should have know better.

The inside of the lens scratches very easily even with a micro fiber cloth. I wore gloves most of the time, but still had to clean out some gunk from cleaning the perma seal. Got a few fine scratches in the lens.

A compressor will be almost mandatory to clean all the dust out of the housings, unless you are extremely careful in taping and sealing the inside up.

I ordered 4300k kit, but the bulbs were boxed wrong and received 5000k. I think they are too blue. I ordered some 4300k today to change them out.

I'm also not thrilled with the blue line in the cut off. I think this may attract unwanted attention. I Did not think it would be this prominent.

I mounted the ballasted on a cross member which is visible when the headlight is removed, I attached the relays to the support for the front bumper.

I did not have to drill any holes. I used double sided tape plus a few wire ties to secure the ballast. I don't think they are going anywhere.

I ran the harness from passenger side to the drivers side under the radiator support. The harness would be easier to route if it was 6 inches longer, but is not a problem.

I put the shrouds and the rings in the oven for about 10 minuets at 180 to expand them, this made sliding them onto the projector much easier.

Do no use alcohol on the shroud to clean it. It will take the chrome right off.

I still have to aim them but the rotation looks good. I used the manual method from the instructions in the group buy.

I was afraid the mini might shake, so far in the short test around town I did not see any movement.

These lights put out plenty of light. The only thing I'm not happy about is the housings. I had to beat them up pretty bad to get them apart.
Wiring the truck should not take more than an hour to get the harness installed to look like it is factory. The harness integrates very well. The hardest part of the install is separating the lens, after that it's all fairly easy.

Hope this helps some.

schissler

looks good!

by looking at the projectors i received and looking at my headlight i am unsure of how this is a "plug and play no cut" install....

filterking

You don't have to cut the reflector. You will need to dermal the bulb socket down enough for the rear threaded part of the projector to stick through so the nut will screw on. Tape up the hole from the front. I would also cover the front of the reflector to keep dust out. It is a bitch to get it off the reflector without scratching it. I didn't cover the front, cleaning it up afterwards took some time.

stormsearch

Looks like you are the first one near complete from the group buy - good job. The kit I ordered included the Gatlin Gun shroud and forgot that there is a value vs. a premium version. So I ordered the premiums yesterday and hopefully they show up before the weekend and get mine done this weekend.

Forgot which shrouds you purchased, is there much of a gap between the shroud and reflector? Mine does, so making some shroud extenders.

Did you fasten the projector to the reflector or are you going to rely on just the rear nut? Did you have any problem with the horizontal alignment - that is the only adjustment I'm hoping is not needed.

I agree with you on the color temp, alot of guys like the 5000K color, I don't. I also bought the 4300's and hopefully my packages aren't mis-marked. I can say though that TRS is on the ball for returning stuff - I inquired about exchanging the shrouds and heard back with them in a couple hours, ordered and shipped.

codysanborn23

Toanyone who has completed.this how in the world did you get these headlights open? I tried tore up black.plastic.. and cracked reflector..
245* at 20min.. was soft but the permaseal won.

filterking

Separating the lens from the housings took me the good part of two days. I was doing other things, but it is time consuming and frustrating. I broke or damaged several of the tabs. I'm somewhat OCD and this drove me nuts.

Did you remember to remove the screws counter sunk in the back of the housing?. Earliar model years may come apart different.

As posted by another member the outside permaseal needs to be removed first. Then I made a couple of tools to cut the inside permaseal. I was unable to get them apart any other way.

I went as long as 28 minutes at 245 and 10 minutes at 265 in the oven. Check your lights constantly at the higher temps.

I will post a couple of pics latter today of what I used to cut the inner seal.

codysanborn23

I have a 2011 I seen no countersunk bolts?
It sucks

filterking

I used the Apollo shrouds.. Yes there is a gap, but it hide the HID reflector very well. I thought about making extensions, but the muliti-angles looked like it would take me a long time to cut. I decided I had spent enough time on this "weekend" project.

I will take a few pics latter and post them.

The 5000k bulbs I received looked closer to 6000k to me, these are very blue making it very hard to see. My last couple of cars have had factory hids making the blue very noticeable. I'm also older, younger persons may not find the high temp lighting as impairing.

Attaching the projector was somewhat of a dilemma for me. I was very concerned about shake or vibration of that big protector just hanging by a nut. I thought about gluing the factory and the hid reflector together, but figured if I had the alignment off, I was screwed.

I decided to use the nut and a urethane glue which drys more rigid, instead of silicone to seal up the back of the plug area. This glue sticks very well to smooth surfaces. It also held the factory rubber boot well leaving a grove lower in the housing similar to the one I had to grind off to get the nut on.

You will need to set the rotation. The adapter does not work in our lights you most likely won't even receive one with your order.

I got lucky at first with the rotation or the horizontal alignment. I used the manual method and they looked perfect in my test fit. I then screwed it up. I marked the positions and re-tighten the nut moving one of the projectors. I moved it back to my marks, but it was still off when I did the final install. I was able to fix it with some needle nose vise gripes.

TRS has been very helpful and accommodating.