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These things, less the coils has already been done. I replaced one COP on cylinder 8 because I was getting a misfire on that cylinder and the boot was stuck to the plug when I pulled it out. That is the same time that I replaced all 8 plugs.
you can replace boots and springs without replacing coils. Boots/springs are a maint item (and often cause of misfires), and factory coils are not (a maint item) and rarely fail.
you can replace boots and springs without replacing coils. Boots/springs are a maint item (and often cause of misfires), and factory coils are not (a maint item) and rarely fail.
I forgot to add that I had inspected the plugs when trying to diagnose the no start issue. At that time it was only firing on 5 cylinders due to the clips for the coils being broken. That is when I discovered that the boot was stuck to the plug. That is when I got new clips for the coil packs buy before I replaced the plugs. Funds were tight after dropping nearly $1000 on the wiring job. 2 weeks later it began misfiring on that cylinder. I destroyed the boot when fishing it out, and replaced the entire coil along with all 8 plugs at that time. I was not aware that I could just buy the spring and boot. Lesson learned lol.
Seems odd that the dealer and shops would not try to resolve the code as part of troubleshooting. If it's been persistent for 2 years, I would think it should be looked into. Here's the info for that code from the shop manual, as well as the test procedure/pinpoint test.
They addressed the code, but said it was unrelated to the stalling issue. If I remember right they said the only symptom it would produce was possibly a gas smell after fill ups.
They addressed the code, but said it was unrelated to the stalling issue. If I remember right they said the only symptom it would produce was possibly a gas smell after fill ups.
If they addressed the code, why is it still present? That doesn't make much sense to me.
Addressed it as far as informing me of the code, and that they didn't believe it was related to the stalling issue. Their recommendation was replacing the FTP sensor, but that would have cost me $400 because they needed to drop the tank to get to it. I didn't have that kind of money, and smelling gas at fill ups didn't seem to be worth the cost at that time since it wouldn't fix the issue that was preventing me from driving the truck.
Addressed it as far as informing me of the code, and that they didn't believe it was related to the stalling issue. Their recommendation was replacing the FTP sensor, but that would have cost me $400 because they needed to drop the tank to get to it. I didn't have that kind of money, and smelling gas at fill ups didn't seem to be worth the cost at that time since it wouldn't fix the issue that was preventing me from driving the truck.
that seems logical.
Dump/replace fuel and see if you can borrow or buy something that can read basic info including fuel pressure and read and clear codes. Try to make it fail and if it does confirm or rule out fuel pressure. That shouldn’t cost a ton and will go a long way in helping diag this and future issues.
Dump/replace fuel and see if you can borrow or buy something that can read basic info including fuel pressure and read and clear codes. Try to make it fail and if it does confirm or rule out fuel pressure. That shouldn’t cost a ton and will go a long way in helping diag this and future issues.
The plan is to drop the tank Friday, wash it out real good, and put it all back together Sunday after the tank has had time to dry. I'm also going to replace the FTP sensor while I have the tank out. Once all of that is done, I'll have my brother in-law hook his scanner up to it and see what, if any codes its still throwing, and check the live data as well. Hopefully that fixes my issues. The truck was driveable and ran great today after banging on the bottom of the tank. So I may replace the fuel pump again as well since this one is still under warranty. Probably not needed, but experience has shown me that needing to do that to get a vehicle to start is almost always temporary.
The plan is to drop the tank Friday, wash it out real good, and put it all back together Sunday after the tank has had time to dry. I'm also going to replace the FTP sensor while I have the tank out. Once all of that is done, I'll have my brother in-law hook his scanner up to it and see what, if any codes it’. still throwing, and check the live data as well. Hopefully that fixes my issues. The truck was driveable and ran great today after banging on the bottom of the tank. So I may replace the fuel pump again as well since this one is still under warranty. Probably not needed, but experience has shown me that needing to do that to get a vehicle to start is almost always temporary.
You’re going to do all that before confirming you even have a fuel issue?
Since you didn't provide your vehicle information in the original (and subsequent) post(s)....
Consider putting your complete vehicle information (year, model, cab, trim, engine, wheelbase, _x4 drive, mileage) in your signature to have it automagically included when you post. *Eliminates playing 20 questions when/if a post is made in the future pertaining to your vehicle. »Edit Signature«««-click- *You have to be logged-in and don't forget to [ save ] it. **If you're posting with a non-PC ap' insure that "full version" is selected to work properly.
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Also... Be aware that there are year specific forums which better serve non-general F-150 issues/topics.