Rear window derfrost denied -- need ford service rep help !
03-17-2017, 08:54 AM
#22
Senior Member
I pulled the plug behind the back seat last night, don't want to take the change the window will explode. Coming into summer, so hopefully won't need it much.
03-17-2017, 11:05 PM
#23
Senior Member
On my 13 Lariat, in the "Remote Start" settings there is an option as to whether or not you want the rear defrost (and mirrors) to heat. Just select OFF.
There are threads on this forum several months ago in detail about this including one with details & photos on how to disable the rear window but keep the mirrors defrosting.
There are threads on this forum several months ago in detail about this including one with details & photos on how to disable the rear window but keep the mirrors defrosting.
03-18-2017, 09:08 AM
#24
Senior Member
If the rear window defroster is not working and you want the mirrors to work. Pull one of the wires off the window and connect it to the other, this will bypass the window and allow the heated mirrors to work. If done correctly, when you push the button for the mirrors and window heat, the light should come on. This will let you know that the mirrors will now heat.
03-18-2017, 05:03 PM
#25
If the rear window defroster is not working and you want the mirrors to work. Pull one of the wires off the window and connect it to the other, this will bypass the window and allow the heated mirrors to work. If done correctly, when you push the button for the mirrors and window heat, the light should come on. This will let you know that the mirrors will now heat.
03-18-2017, 05:04 PM
#26
If the rear window defroster is not working and you want the mirrors to work. Pull one of the wires off the window and connect it to the other, this will bypass the window and allow the heated mirrors to work. If done correctly, when you push the button for the mirrors and window heat, the light should come on. This will let you know that the mirrors will now heat.
03-19-2017, 10:51 AM
#27
Senior Member
No need to run wires, the wires are both on the same side of the window, mine was on the passenger side. Pull it of the clip and I use a tie wrap to hold them together (I didn't cut the clips off) and the mirrors heated fine and the light on the switch came on also. My local ford dealer, service writer told me how to do it, they wouldn't replace the window unless I paid for it.
03-19-2017, 08:46 PM
#28
No need to run wires, the wires are both on the same side of the window, mine was on the passenger side. Pull it of the clip and I use a tie wrap to hold them together (I didn't cut the clips off) and the mirrors heated fine and the light on the switch came on also. My local ford dealer, service writer told me how to do it, they wouldn't replace the window unless I paid for it.
03-19-2017, 09:23 PM
#29
Senior Member
Search in the 09-14 section for thread "Exploding Rear Window" for post #751. It has a couple if pictures & explains what I did. On my 13 Lariat, the smaller of the two wires on pax side has 4.5 VDC leaving the window going to the light in the switch. If you tie the two leads together you are sending 12VDC+ back to the switch. I ran mine that way for a few uses (mine timed out in 10 minutes) with no ill affects.
Eventually got a voltage reducer (9-12VDC down to 6VDC), for about $6 on Amazon that works great. Now I have heated mirrors & indicator light without worrying rear window will shatter.
Eventually got a voltage reducer (9-12VDC down to 6VDC), for about $6 on Amazon that works great. Now I have heated mirrors & indicator light without worrying rear window will shatter.
03-19-2017, 11:01 PM
#30
Search in the 09-14 section for thread "Exploding Rear Window" for post #751. It has a couple if pictures & explains what I did. On my 13 Lariat, the smaller of the two wires on pax side has 4.5 VDC leaving the window going to the light in the switch. If you tie the two leads together you are sending 12VDC+ back to the switch. I ran mine that way for a few uses (mine timed out in 10 minutes) with no ill affects.
Eventually got a voltage reducer (9-12VDC down to 6VDC), for about $6 on Amazon that works great. Now I have heated mirrors & indicator light without worrying rear window will shatter.
Eventually got a voltage reducer (9-12VDC down to 6VDC), for about $6 on Amazon that works great. Now I have heated mirrors & indicator light without worrying rear window will shatter.