P0016 code...
01-11-2018, 10:26 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
P0016 code...
2011 F150 3.5l eco Screw. Bought it new, have taken care of it. 160k, farm and construction, pulled a skid loader, more importantly stops it, love the truck. Last year both exhaust manifold warped, I did the repair, painful, but doable. I knew the timing chain was coming, yesterday it came. It's back off today, the engine light, but it's time before work picks up. I've watched the YouTube video, it's more complex than I'm up for. Local Ford garage says 10 hours, I can live with $1100 in labor. I think the parts are $300ish. Fine, I love the truck, wouldn't part with it, and I don't trust aftermarket parts that deep in the engine.
My question, should I have the heads pulled since I'm that far in and do a valve job to remove the carbon build up? It's been loosing fuel economy for 140,000 miles, very slowly, so I'm sure the build up is in there. Is it worth it?? Local machine shop said $175 to do both heads, $42 each if they need decked. Then do the catch can etc to help it out for the next 160000 the Mrs. says I need to keep it for.
What about the water pump, it's not easy to change and will be coming off, replace it too?
I have no intention of parting with this truck, so I'm looking at keeping it another 6-7 years. So it can see 300k.
Your thoughts?
My question, should I have the heads pulled since I'm that far in and do a valve job to remove the carbon build up? It's been loosing fuel economy for 140,000 miles, very slowly, so I'm sure the build up is in there. Is it worth it?? Local machine shop said $175 to do both heads, $42 each if they need decked. Then do the catch can etc to help it out for the next 160000 the Mrs. says I need to keep it for.
What about the water pump, it's not easy to change and will be coming off, replace it too?
I have no intention of parting with this truck, so I'm looking at keeping it another 6-7 years. So it can see 300k.
Your thoughts?
01-11-2018, 10:50 AM
#3
Senile member
The heads don't need to be pulled to clean the valves. if they remove the intake manifold they can use a walnut blaster to remove the carbon on the top of the valves (pretty common on other makes)
I'm not a big fan of pulling the heads and breaking the OEM headgasket seal unless absolutely necessary.
on DI engines the carbon builds on top of the valves where the fuel on port injection engines would normally spray.
Change water pump for sure with the timing chain as well as the oil pump. If you're going to do the work, it may be time to swap out the old, tired OEM turbos as those could also be a reason for losing power. There are good companies that make swap kits to upgraded turbos that have good longevity as well (and don't have to be power monsters).
I'm not a big fan of pulling the heads and breaking the OEM headgasket seal unless absolutely necessary.
on DI engines the carbon builds on top of the valves where the fuel on port injection engines would normally spray.
Change water pump for sure with the timing chain as well as the oil pump. If you're going to do the work, it may be time to swap out the old, tired OEM turbos as those could also be a reason for losing power. There are good companies that make swap kits to upgraded turbos that have good longevity as well (and don't have to be power monsters).