I have a 2006 F-150 Triton 4.6l xt that is just hitting 200000.
I have owned it for 2 years. Ever since i owned it, the tb/power-train malfunction light comes on and then shortly there after,the check engine. I the last two years in trying to fix this problem, i have replaced the MAF, spark plugs (two have helicoils 3,and 8), throttle body and tps at 150000mls. Still same issue, wrench light would come on and then the check engine setting the same 2 DTC, p0101,p0102. I took it two a ford dealership, and they said it was a coil pack and replaced it. about 15 miles down the road, wrench light. Should have went back but didn't, dont remember why. So after more reading and research, EGR, most rescent, torque converter clutch selenoid, another coil pack, air cleaner. The testing i have done is, cleaned MAF, did a smoke/fog test for vaccume leaks, inspected the wireing for visiable damages, tested MAF, it has 12v, on one wire, 3-5v on 2 of the other, and onee volatge spikes rapidly when you step on the gas. All said and done after clearing the codes and resetting the PCM, (jumper from neg to pos, with neg disconnect) same ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Without any of the emission monitor and sensors ****, the truck runs fine some times for up to 3 days. I am going to attach the freeze frames that i have collected over the last 3 weeks. I will update it tomorrow am doing a reset one more time, replaced another coil yesterday. Gonna reset over night. Any help would be greatly appreciated, this is very frustrating.

 

I finally took out the accelerator position sensor, to test it and just to satisfy my curiosity. After researching, finally got some numbers, never dealt with a fly by wire throttle system before. Every thing I found said you couldn't be taken apart, and couldn't find any pictures on what a properly functioning app sensor suppose to look like. Finally found a video, in Spanish, that showed me. Yes you can take them apart. The arm had moved, or been moved. There were scratch tracks from the copper fingers running off the contacts. That's what caused the malfunction light, never in two yeas showed any codes dealing with the app sensor. Proceeded to pull the arm off, and after a few times of adjusting, got a ohms reading of round 3.7, 3.8 ohms on #1 and #5 pins, with a drop when pedal moved.Reassembled, and started truck. Ran good, but the responsiveness of the pedal was delayed, so after moving the arm a smidge more, felt I got it. Put everything back together ......So far it's been 2 days of driving, runs better than it ever has and no codes. So how did this arm get moved?