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Rear Wheel Stud Replacment

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Old 01-17-2020, 09:17 PM
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Default Rear Wheel Stud Replacment

Does anyone know if you can get the studs our and back in on the rear without removing the axles? I have a 2011 F150 that had a couple snap off.

Thanks,

Jim
Old 01-17-2020, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by silversteed
Does anyone know if you can get the studs our and back in on the rear without removing the axles? I have a 2011 F150 that had a couple snap off.

Thanks,

Jim
Yes you can if you have air tools.

Let me rephrase that, It's easy with air tools, PITA without.
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Last edited by RLXXI; 01-17-2020 at 09:32 PM.
Old 01-18-2020, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by RLXXI
Yes you can if you have air tools.

Let me rephrase that, It's easy with air tools, PITA without.
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What are tools are needed? I thought you just hammered that old ones out and drew the new ones in with a socket and ratchet.

Just trying to be sure I want to do this in the freezing rain
Old 01-18-2020, 09:58 AM
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It can be done without an impact gun but it’s much harder to do. Once you pound out the old ones, clean it up and apply a small amount of grease to the splines in the axle hub. Insert the new lug into the hole from behind and make sure it’s straight. Put a spacer over the exposed threads ( a large shallow socket will do as long as the lug will fit through the drive end of the socket), install your lug nut and crank away. A long handle 1/2” drive ratchet will work but you may need a breaker bar.
You're going to be putting a lot of force on the ratchet or breaker bar so make sure the truck is properly supported.
Old 01-18-2020, 11:03 AM
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I'm leery of pounding them out with brute force. I worry about bending the flange.
Old 01-18-2020, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by silversteed
What are tools are needed? I thought you just hammered that old ones out and drew the new ones in with a socket and ratchet.

Just trying to be sure I want to do this in the freezing rain
That's basically how to do it, air tools allow the stud to be drawn in much easier and faster, I use a large nut, big enough to fit over the stud and usually is tapered so the lug nut will seat centered, grease both the nuts and draw it in.
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Old 01-18-2020, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by PerryB
I'm leery of pounding them out with brute force. I worry about bending the flange.
You're not going to bend the flange, it's machined hardened steel, the only other way to get it out is to pull the axle and press it out. I've been knocking broken studs out of axles for 40 years with no ill effects.
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Old 01-18-2020, 12:04 PM
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The flange on the end of that axle shaft withstands probably thousands of pounds of force every time you go around turns. When you consider the flange is somewhere around 8” in diameter and in some cases, there is a 37” tall, 100 pound tire and wheel combo mounted to it, not to mention the weight of a full sized pickup truck applying force to it as it goes around a turn. You’d have to beat on it with a pretty BFH to bend it.
Old 01-18-2020, 12:45 PM
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Jumped in and got it done. There was plenty of room to put the new studs in from the back but you have to rotate the wheel to some position other than 12:00.

I used an electric impact to get them started then I drew them down with an 2' breaker bar. I also used a large nut to take up the space when setting the studs.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-18-2020, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by silversteed
Jumped in and got it done. There was plenty of room to put the new studs in from the back but you have to rotate the wheel to some position other than 12:00.

I used an electric impact to get them started then I drew them down with an 2' breaker bar. I also used a large nut to take up the space when setting the studs.

Thanks for the help.
You’re very welcome! Glad it worked out for you.


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