05 super

yep, change it. for the sake of 15.00 bucks. probably never been done anyways.

LoneWolfTrucker

Okay, the slave clutch cylinder is gone completely now. So that will be the first repair.

With it being lifted it should be a little easier to drop the trans.

Anyone have any suggestions for this repair?

LoneWolfTrucker

Talked to the transmission place, I need to try bleeding the line. Anyone have instructions for doing this?

LoneWolfTrucker

Question: Is the bleeder screw on the trans? Or is it on the line? Trans guy made it sound like it was on the line, but this page shows it on the trans:

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...es.htm#hd1-1-2

wde3477

Haven't seen one up close and in person, but from the link provided, in Figs 14,15,17, and 19, it appears that the bleeder port is accessible externally through the a side opening of the transmission/bell housing. I would assume the bleed port is part of the internal slave cylinder assembly.

Suggest that you're off to a good start - in researching the directions on the how-to before diving into it.

Good luck, and let us know how things turn out.

onall4x4

you say you have 160000 miles right.when you take the rad cap off or look in the overflow bottle do you see any brown rusty looking water or any slim/crap floating in youre coolent.if yes i would flush youre whole heating system,then you can replace youre thermostat and put in all new coolent.

LoneWolfTrucker

Cool, I'll do that. It has been maintained pretty well though so my guess is that the coolant is in good shape.

UPDATE: I bled the clutch and I now can shift it into gear again. This will allow me to drive it and keep the fluid filled. I am going to replace the slave cylinder though, and probably the master cylinder too just to be safe.

LoneWolfTrucker

Okay, I got the parts necessary for the change out of the thermostat. As soon as we get a break in the weather (it has been below 20 degrees recently) I will be changing this out.

Also picked up two fuel door replacements from a salvage yard. One is even the same color as my truck (emerald green)! The fuel doors on my truck are rusted pretty bad. Other than those, the bumper, and the wheel-wells, this truck is solid.

I missed a bumper in excellent shape on craigslist. It was posted 2 weeks ago, I called yesterday but it was gone. DOH! Only $50.

Once I have those installed and the thermostat I'll post an update, then it is on to the windshield-wiper switch replacement.

Oh, and the slave-cylinder, after bleeding the system, is doing fine. I've checked the fluid level and it doesn't seem to be decreasing. So that is good.

2 question: what weight gear oil should I use in the differentials (both front and rear), and what weight oil do you all recommend for the 4.9L 6 cyl? I am going to change it.

Thanks.

LoneWolfTrucker

Most expensive thermostat replacement ever! Here is the story:

Yesterday at 1pm got started. Pulled the housing, put the new thermostat in, put the new gasket on with the silicon gasket maker. Bolted housing back down.

Thing leaked immediately. Tightened bolts (they weren't loose at all). Same thing, leaking.

Pulled bolts. Bottom corner of housing where the bottom bolt goes is cracked and broken through.

No problem. Go to murrays and buy new one for $17.99. Oh, and get some solvent since the copper fitting that goes to the heater with the temp sensor is not an easily replaced part, and it into the old housing.

Get home, bolt new housing onto engine. Tighten each bolt evenly. Bottom bolt tightened is going slower, start to tighten, new housing cracks in the same place as the old one!

So now I have to pay $17.99 again for a new housing. All I can think of is the thermostat is unseating as I try to put the housing on, and is sitting between the engine and the edge of the housing. Tightening the lower bolt causes too much torque on that corner of the housing and SNAP.

I hate these vertical mounted thermostats.

NGM

Use a little silicone to hold the thermostat in place. Let it dry then install the housing. I would replace the master the slave and the line between them. I had the line custom made its not that expensive and looked good in braided steel when I was done. You should be able to drop the tranny and transfercase together. Need to know where the front diff leaks from to help ya out there.