Goss's Garage tip for removing Triton Sparkplugs
#11
I Voted For Bill and Opus
Thread Starter
On a side note....I've used the PERMATEX product for years with excellent results. But I'm going to buy a bottle of the MOTORCRAFT product now, and see for myself the differences, if any.
On the spec' sheet the major difference I see is Permatex is good to 2400 degrees, and the Motorcraft is good to 2550 degrees. Both are far and above any temperatures to found at a sparkplug base. The Speed Boat people say the Motorcraft anti-seize is just the ticket for keeping exhaust manifold bolts from freezing up, not to mention O2 sensor threads. Roush Performance also makes an anti-seize lubricant that is supposed to be the sovereign emollient for turbo charger nuts and bolts it is a high nickle graphite formula but I can find nothing about it.
Last edited by transmaster; 01-15-2011 at 10:37 AM.
#12
I Voted For Bill and Opus
Thread Starter
I would love to be able to talk candidly with the engineering team at Ford who designed the Modular engine and ask about this sparkplug design and what where they thinking of.
Last edited by transmaster; 01-15-2011 at 11:14 AM.
#13
On the show, did they replace the plugs with the OEM unit or with the one piece Champion 7989? As far as I'm concerned, that's the only way to go once you get the buggers out. Why set yourself up for failure a few years down the line...
#15
This issue is componded with Ford's two piece plug. The threads do not seize and will come out. The other piece (the extended tip) is frozen to the head due to carbon buildup and remains in the head. A one piece plug along with the Anti-seize solves both problems.
#16
antisieze
im not sure if i understand
i did use some anti sieze that i found t have copper i may have at first used to much on the plug threads . 94 f 150 . regular looking plugs . ive been having arcing issues there at the plugs / wires . do you think this may be a factor in the arcing . I'll be looking for grounding problems too . still starts right away . no ck . engine . mostly poor accel .
i did use some anti sieze that i found t have copper i may have at first used to much on the plug threads . 94 f 150 . regular looking plugs . ive been having arcing issues there at the plugs / wires . do you think this may be a factor in the arcing . I'll be looking for grounding problems too . still starts right away . no ck . engine . mostly poor accel .
#17
I Voted For Bill and Opus
Thread Starter
I am not sure if I understand
I did use some anti seize that I found contained copper I may have used too much on the plug threads. It is a 94 f 150, and has regular looking plugs . I've been having arcing issues there at the plugs/wires. do you think this may be a factor in the arcing . I'll be looking for grounding problems too. still starts right away. no check engine light. mostly poor acceleration .
I did use some anti seize that I found contained copper I may have used too much on the plug threads. It is a 94 f 150, and has regular looking plugs . I've been having arcing issues there at the plugs/wires. do you think this may be a factor in the arcing . I'll be looking for grounding problems too. still starts right away. no check engine light. mostly poor acceleration .
I should have explained this better copper based anti-seize lubricants are ok on cast iron heads. However copper is poison on aluminum heads. Copper and aluminum do not get along. Your 1994 engine has cast iron heads so the copper anti seize is OK. The Nickel based anti-seize is good on both so I would not get anything but the nickle based lub'.
Last edited by transmaster; 01-19-2011 at 02:36 PM.