transmaster

This forum is exceptional is this area. There are a large number of automotive forums especially in the vintage muscle car category where all you deal with is one upmenship, and it really gets nasty. Well I have matching numbers, and you don't, you have the wrong color white, non fitted radiator hoses sniff, and those wheels.... Here all that counts is you have an Ford truck, refreshing.

Ditto on the use of Permatex products been using them since the 1960's always good stuff.

On the spec' sheet the major difference I see is Permatex is good to 2400 degrees, and the Motorcraft is good to 2550 degrees. Both are far and above any temperatures to found at a sparkplug base. The Speed Boat people say the Motorcraft anti-seize is just the ticket for keeping exhaust manifold bolts from freezing up, not to mention O2 sensor threads. Roush Performance also makes an anti-seize lubricant that is supposed to be the sovereign emollient for turbo charger nuts and bolts it is a high nickle graphite formula but I can find nothing about it.

transmaster

On the Mustang forums in threads about the Ford Modular V8 there are specific discussions on this, and they have found it is a bad idea to do this. There is no way of keeping the lubricant from moving down from the extension contaminating the anode on the sparkplug and causing misfires. .

I would love to be able to talk candidly with the engineering team at Ford who designed the Modular engine and ask about this sparkplug design and what where they thinking of.

Chooie

On the show, did they replace the plugs with the OEM unit or with the one piece Champion 7989? As far as I'm concerned, that's the only way to go once you get the buggers out. Why set yourself up for failure a few years down the line...

texasedition

Gonna pick some of that permatex up!

JackDW

Correct, you need it on the end of the plug....not the thread. Check out the Ford TSB for where to put the anti-seize. The issue is not with the threads seizing in the head, it is with carbon building up on the extended tip and the carbon freezing in the head. You need the anti-seize to keep the extended tip from freezing to the head. It is not a problem with the threads.

This issue is componded with Ford's two piece plug. The threads do not seize and will come out. The other piece (the extended tip) is frozen to the head due to carbon buildup and remains in the head. A one piece plug along with the Anti-seize solves both problems.

gassign94

im not sure if i understand
i did use some anti sieze that i found t have copper i may have at first used to much on the plug threads . 94 f 150 . regular looking plugs . ive been having arcing issues there at the plugs / wires . do you think this may be a factor in the arcing . I'll be looking for grounding problems too . still starts right away . no ck . engine . mostly poor accel .

transmaster

No this has nothing to do with arcing sparkplug cables. If the cables are arcing then they need to be replaced. There is an issue with the routing of the spark plug cables on the 302, and 351W V8's up to 1997 when the Triton (modular) V8 engines where introduced. You might need new sparkplug cables. The best way to tell if you have a arcing problem it to go out at night start the engine and open the hood you will be able to see any arcing that may be happening in the dark. If this is a problem the best thing you can do is get a good quality cables Motorcraft makes an excellent set. I always replace the Cap and and pick up in the distributor when I change out the Spark plug cables. .Make sure the replacement cap has brass terminals.

I should have explained this better copper based anti-seize lubricants are ok on cast iron heads. However copper is poison on aluminum heads. Copper and aluminum do not get along. Your 1994 engine has cast iron heads so the copper anti seize is OK. The Nickel based anti-seize is good on both so I would not get anything but the nickle based lub'.