johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

Matt, you replaced bearings in both sides, or just one? When they were replaced, did the IWE look good?. When it was reassembled, did you make sure the teeth on the IWE were engaged before tightening spindle nut, or pulled a vacuum on them to ensure they were disengaged?
To avoid doing any more damage, I think I'd pull the connector on the solenoid until you can fix the problem, I realize to test you'll need it connected. By disconnecting it, you'll be running with the IWEs engaged, and turning the front diff, but as long as you don't turn the switch to 4H/4L on dry pavement, you'll be alright. Beats maybe causing more damage and $$ output.

With your vacuum pump, connect it directly to the IWE, and see if it holds vacuum.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/TSB/EU/

The top link is a Ford TSB, it's straight from Ford, the second, is a good video that can help.
If these links don't work, let me know.

matt9999

Thanks for the response! We did not pull a vacuum but we did make sure the teeth were engaged when we put the wheel bearings in. We did both sides by the way. It engages into 4wd just as it should so I think it is meshing well. I will double check the IWEs with vacuum and hopefully figure this out.
What is the difference of disconnecting at the solenoid vs just running it in 4h?

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

Matt, for some reason, I can't link you to that TSB, here is the number, TSB-18-2273, do search and you should find it.

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/inter...2273-a-429040/

matt9999

thank you!

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

Pulling the connector will not allow the solenoid to provide vacuum to the IWEs. The same thing happens, loss of power, when you shift into 4H/4L. As long as you don't turn the selector, the Tcase won't be engaged, but the IWEs will be.
Sorry about making a mess with these posts, I tried to link you to that TSB.

matt9999

So the grinding noise is gone now. Turned out to be my front passenger IWE. Thanks for the help on finding that.

Unfortunately, now the truck will not engage the 4wd. It says that it is in 4wd but I am not getting any power to the wheels. I do believe the cvs are turning so the vacuum seems to be working. What could be causing this? it happens in both 4hi and 4low...
ANY Help appreciated.

Thanks!

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

Check all fuses relating to 4X4? Check connections on shift motor?

Will Stringfellow

Hey guys, I’m new to this but I have a 2018 F150 and it started making this bumping types noise and I had it diagnosed at the dealership and the hub was gone and needed an actuator replaced so I bought both hubs and actuators and installed them and in doing all of this I had a grinding noise from both the driver side and passenger side but the driver side was worse. I replaced the actuator on both sides ant the passenger side stopped and the driver side keeps doing it. After the truck sits it doesn’t do it until a mile or so down the road and started after a sharp right turn on the driver side. The check valve is still allowing air through where it’s supposed to and not on the other side like it’s supposed to. All the hoses look good and it’s only got 64k miles on it. What do you guys think I should check or that it could maybe be? Any and all advice/assistance is appreciated.

matt9999

If you have access to a vacuum tester that may be very helpful. I rented one at autozone and narrowed down the problem within 10 minutes after the shop was unable to figure it out. Start up at the solenoid/check valve and work your way down until you find a leak if it’s not holding a vacuum. The other mistake I made was hooking the check valve up wrong.. I know it may seem silly but double check that. Oh and once I realized I had it hooked up wrong, doing so also caused the check valve to leak so I had to replace it. In your case I’d start with the vacuum tester though. Good luck.