CapnKalvin

This is a 2003 Lariat SuperCrew with FX4 package and a 5.4L V8 with 200,000+ miles (all mine). The system was flushed and refilled with 50/50 distilled water and concentrate mid Winter last year. I did notice a bit of coolant along the frame back in the Summer after a trip to the beach but, subsequent checks showed no further sign. Recently I have noticed a spot of coolant on the driveway under the driver side front corner just inside the fenderline and in front of the front wheel. The coolant appears to come from around the recovery tank and spray onto the air filter housing and down the radiator support and along the frame. According to the temperature gauge the temp is normal. There is no leak apparent with the engine at idle or with it being revved from the TB. There are no sounds of leaking pressure or gurgling in the system and there is pressure when I take the cap off even the next morning. I have washed everything down a couple of times and checked and rechecked the hoses and clamps appear to be fine. I thought the cap might be failing under pressure and replaced it. After a couple of short trips I thought I had fixed the problem but, after a longer trip (10 miles) the leak came back. My mechanical skills are above average and I like to fix my own problems but, if I can't get a couple of ideas here might run her in to the dealer. UGGGHHH. ANY HELP would appreciated. I posted this in the INTRO section a few days ago. Sorry for the redundancy. Still looking for ideers.....

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Pressure check the cooling system.. you may be able to barrow a pressure tester from your local auto parts..

CapnKalvin

Thank you. A good idea actually and I will get to that. I have spent most of my free time working on this problem this weekend. Friday evening, being pretty sure the radiator was the cause of the problem I decided to take it out and have it tested. Unfortunately, none of the shops in my area are able to test a radiator that is uninstalled from the vehicle. Overnight, since everything was taken apart, I pulled all of the hoses and the coolant recovery tank off for inspection and cleaning. Anxious to get back on the road, Saturday morning I decided to replace the radiator with a new one. (After all, at 13 years and 200,000+ miles she deserves a new one right?) I found a "direct fit for my vehicle" replacement online at Advance Auto Parts, using the coupon code TRT30 for $147.99. I picked up the new radiator in Delaware where it was tax-free (BONUS); while I was there I asked about a loner cooling system pressure testing kit. Lo and behold they had one and with a deposit of $249.99, I took it with me.

Back at the house, I unboxed the new radiator, set it in place and being a skeptic of "direct fit for my vehicle" unless it is Motorcraft, attempted to thread in the transmission cooler lines first. The radiator was NOT a direct fit for my vehicle as the cooler lines threaded in about half a turn before becoming jammed. I put the new radiator right back in the box for return. Now it's time for a beer. Halfway through my second beer I got a bright idea. Since I had the pressure tester kit I decided to put everything back together and see if I could find my problem.

I performed another inspection and cleaning of all the parts; the hoses were all in good condition with no apparent leaks or cracks as was the coolant recovery tank. I thoroughly cleaned both the aluminum inlet and aluminum outlets on the engine making sure there was no corrosion. I replaced all of the original spring type hose clamps with worm gear type stainless steel clamps. The overflow hose looked a little questionable so I replaced it and its clamps as well. After filling the system back up and selecting the proper adapter I pumped the pressure up to 20 pounds, put a dry piece of cardboard under the front end and let it set for about 30 minutes. There were no apparent leaks or drips and the cardboard was dry so I buttoned everything up for a test drive. Feeling I had solved my problem, I decided to return the "not a direct fit for my vehicle" radiator and the pressure tester to Advance Auto Parts the following morning.

Needing to run an errand, I took the truck about 10 miles into town and when I got to the parking lot, opened the hood to check things out. I found coolant sprayed all over the air cleaner, coolant recovery tank, fuse block and master cylinder. Looking under the wheelhouse I found frame and suspension bathed in coolant. WTH? Back to the house I went. Once again, I cleaned everything up with Simple Green and rinsed it all off drying it with the leaf blower.

I put the F150 back into the garage and got out a heater fan to dry everything off. While it was drying, I took the air cleaner and cooler recovery tank loose so that I could see all of the hoses and clamps with things pressurized. Again, I put a dry piece of cardboard underneath the front end. This time I used the pressure tester to pressurize the system to the edge of the red zone which was about 28 1/2 pounds and let it set for an hour. Upon inspection, everything was dry underneath, there were no drips at any of the hoses or clamps and the system had lost about 1 1/2 pounds of pressure which I attributed to cooling. I wiped everything down again, making sure that everything was clean and dry, buttoned it up and took it for another test drive with the exact same results as before. There was coolant sprayed everywhere.

WHAT AM I MISSING? Again, ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

JCR 56

Could be a head gasket allowing compression into the cooling system. Let the truck warm up until the thermostat opens with the cap off and see if there are bubbles forming in the degas bottle. There is also a kit to check for exhaust gases in the coolant. Hopefully it's something else causing your problem.

tanked_darren

Did you ever replace the thermostat? Lol had a sunfire do this once.

Luckily I didn't just replace expensive stuff first.

Serious question.

RoJo F150

CapnKalvin, I have an 09 truck and this past Sunday the temps here in MO got to -11 and the day before we had a day of black ice. I drove my son about 40 miles to his job and when I got there I noticed steam coming from under the hood. A closer look showed that coolant had sprayed my air cleaner and the driver side of the engine, but I couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from other than it was on the driver side near the radiator.


I topped off the coolant and did a search here. I found several posts on the subject but the one that made the most sense was the one saying it was from the t-connector on the expansion bottle. The problem is made worse in cold weather, (according to the guy who made the post) that's ironically when I had my problem. I checked and I have 3 of those connectors under the hood. In the meantime, I'm just driving with a bottle of anti freeze in the truck until the weather gets a touch warmer and I can do the repair in my garage.


If that's your problem the solution is to simply replace the t-connectors and use the good old screw down clamps. This past summer I flushed my radiator and about 6 weeks ago I had to have my heater core replaced, so I've had my fill of smelling coolant. Hope this helps.

CapnKalvin

Hey guys, thanks for the replies and the ideas. Being out of other options and not really finding anything concrete, I dropped the F150 off at the local dealer for some professional diagnostics. One thing I need to add to my list of symptoms, is that the coolant in the recovery tank did look a bit foamy and when I revved the engine it circulated but looked a little aerated.
So, after a day in the shop............the mechanic is calling it a failing head gasket. Due to the mileage and the complexity of the job, the service manager isn't giving me the option of a head gasket R&R. Apparently, they don't want the professional liability of a repair. They quoted $6450.00 for a replacement with 3 years and 36,000 mile warranty. I'm considering my options at the moment. Do any of you pros have an idea of the cost of a (professional) head gasket R&R? I have been advised it is not a DIY kind of job. From the videos online it looks like the best way is to lift the cab off the frame? Again your 2 cents is valued.

CapnKalvin

Has anyone actually tried using K&W Engine Block Sealer (Nanotechnology) on a leak like this? I kind of feel I have nothing to loose but am a bit worried about the cooling system if I end up having to replace the motor anyways. I don't want to tack on a radiator and heater core plus anything else the stuff touches.
Thanks in advance.....................

Tackle

You have nothing to lose right? Either replacing the engine or getting a new truck?

Go for it! I would.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

I had real good luck using a product called Blue devil head gasket sealer..follow the directions to the T.. It sealed a blown head gasket in my sons 3.8L olds. Best $65 he spent.. good luck