screwd

You can get most of this free on Edmunds.com, btw. Not sure about holdback info. In case it helps anyone else. Also X-Plan they show you the invoice, so if you're X-Plan you'll see that price anyway.

Wanted33

ADOR, welcome to the forum. If the dealer your dealing with told you that you can't order a 2013, and wbc says he did and that the cutoff was Aug. 31 it sounds like your dealer is a bit on the shady side. That being said most dealers will sell at invoice minus rebates/incentives. They then add "ad fees" which we all pay (I think they are around $600), "doc fees" that vary from dealer to dealer (mine was $499), and tax, tag, title. Sorry I can't speak to the tow, and payload packages.

BTW, don't let this dealer BS you. There are more dealers around that won't. Good luck.

ADOR

Thank you for your responses folks. Also thanks to WBC for giving me some helpful information via PM. I have read the 2013 brochure from front to back and mad this list. It seems like HD Package is NOT an option for the 6.2L (which I really want to have). What I did not see on the brochure is the availability of the Max Trailer Package in any of the box sizes for the 6.2L engine.

So, based on the numbers listed below, IF the Max Trailer Package is an option to add for the 6.2L, what will be the NEW Towing and Payload limits for the 5.5' and 6.5' boxes?

I looked at the numbers of the 5.0L and noticed that the Towing Capacity is LOWER than the 6.2L (6.5' box). The only advantage was it gave you an extra 600lbs in Payload... and extra 500lbs in GVWR.

That was when I get confused. With the HD Package, you can carry more on your bed, but tow less? On the 6.2L, (since HD package is not an option), you can TOW more, but carry less weight on your bed?

Sorry for asking too many questions folks. I'm newbie to towing and cargo carrying. I don't even have a pick up right now. That is why I am asking all of these questions. Currently have a Hummer H2, which is not ideal for both towing and cargo carrying.

We just purchased a TT with 3,200 lbs. dry weight. Looking into getting a quad down the road, and maybe trade the TT for a Toy Hauler. Just want to make sure that I do my research before buying out first pick up. Thanks for your input and suggestions.


Ford F-150 (LARIAT –Super Crew 4x4)


(6.2L V8)

5.5’ Box
11,100 lbs. – Max Towing
1,860 lbs. – Max Payload

6.5’ Box
11,000 lbs. – Max Towing
1,730 lbs. – Max Payload

7,700 lbs. – GVWR (Both 5.5’ and6.5’ Boxes)


(5.0L V8)

5.5’ Box
9,300 lbs. – Max Towing
1,700 lbs. – Max Payload


6.5’ Box
9,100 lbs. – Max Towing (No HD Package)
1,570 lbs. – Max Payload (No HD Package)
7,350 lbs. – GVWR (No HD Package)

9,200 lbs. – Max Towing (With HD Package)
2,330 lbs. – Max Payload (With HD Package)
8,200 lbs. – GVWR (With HD Package)

HCFX2013

If you tow that much, why are you getting the 6.2L without those options and not the 3.5L w/HD payload and towing?

wbc

Go to Fords website and build them. Select the rear axle; the key is to pick the 3.73 gears. 3.73 in limited slip will give you HD and Max Tow ONLY on the 6.5' bed Super Crew.

It gets a little confusing for Max Tow and what engines in what bed are supported. Go to Ford.com and build your F150. Remember, 3.73 gears in limited slip or locker (I believe Max Tow is only with the locker) is the key. After you select that and go to the next page it will list Max Tow and/or HD if it's available in that configuration. Those options will already be checked off for you. If they aren't listed and checked it's not available.

Also ignore their payload calculation on the page. It doesn't always update correctly.

I used the following link to determine my payload. Payload is what I'm after more then towing but on that page click the Towing tab to see specs.

http://www.ford.com/trucks/f150/specifications/payload/

All Hat No Cattle

I did for my 2010 truck what you are doing now, in LV.

First, make sure that you have a list of exactly what you want to order. Then go to the the various dealers and give them each a copy of that list, and ask what the out-the-door total price is, including sales tax and docs, or the total price being financed and at what APR.

At that time Friendly Ford was the worst deal (ripoff), Team Ford was OK, $600 over, Gaudin was $500 over invoice under the Costco Plan, but Ford Country was the last stop and the best deal. They were willing to order it at dealers invoice, their invoice price was within $1 of the price I had from Consumers Reports, and all rebates applied. Be aware that the rebates that are in effect when the truck is delivered, not ordered, are the rebates that apply. I ended up paying for it under the X-Plan, thanks to this forum, so it came out even less.

I tried St. George Ford over the phone, while they offered a decent deal, it was not worth the hassle of 125 mile drives.

If you are not good at negotiating, consider the Costco Buying Program. They will get you a fixed price, and usually a decent deal that you are free to reject, if you can do better. I did.

You might go to a dealer that you favor last, after you hit the others. I told Ford Country that I had competing deals, but not what they were. When the Internet Manager asked if anyone had offered me a truck at invoice, I said no, but very close to it. ($500 is very close, isn't it? LOL) That is when he made his offer at invoice.

Know exactly what you want to buy, and don't get buyer's fever. They love to see that, like sharks smell blood. The truck will still be available next week.

Good luck shopping.

All Hat No Cattle

Oh, referencing my above post, I was checking the Ford Country website for something else, and this popped up, FWIW.

Aggie*86

I had an excellent experience at Ford Country as well. Made an intenet deal for an in stock new F150 and flew to Vegas to pick it up. An hour later I was on my way in the new rig (after hitting a buffet).

Crab Balls

You will not get a deal on any special order 2014 and pay full MSRP. Best to pick out what you want from the lot and call around each dealer and have them give you their best price in writing. Set the ground rules and tell them exactly what you want and how you are paying for it. This way you can compare apples to apples and not get sucked into the tricky math shell game. Oh, and don't think you will get any savings paying cash, you get screwed out of all your rebates. Got to finance and pay off the loan as soon as the paperwork is completed. And if you don't trade a vehicle in you loose the $750 Ford trade-in assistance. I wanted to pay cash and keep my old F150 so I had to get creative so I can get my rebates. Always have them put in writing the EXACT on the road price with the terms you want. Good luck.

BTW> I hate buying new cars/trucks as it is an exercise in psychological warfare.

fringe_remnant

I just did a spec order and negotiated for less than factory invoice to the dealer. We made it clear from the outset that this was going to happen, and when they agreed, finished the deal off in less than half an hour.

Kind of helped that I was a returning customer.